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prb in sub zero temps

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leadball

40 Cal.
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This will be my first bp season that I will hunt in that may be will be below zero. What can I expect from the prbs and powder. I use real bp. The deer are moving well and i am heading out after 4pm today. I have always gotten my deer earlier but the forecast calls for very cold temps
 
I took a buck last year at -15º with a PRB, which I am certain was my lowest temperature hunted. No difference to the lead or powder. I wouldn't use spit for lube, however. I carried my pouch under my coat to keep everything pliable.

Sure felt good to gut that poor critter.

Flinters actually work better, as the humidity is WAY down when the temperature is below zero. It shouldn't matter as you load when the gun is still warm from the car, and it will be warmed up when you reload. As long as the lube hasn't hardened up. If that happens, try Moose Snot or moose milk next time. :winking:
 
the only problem I've ever had is with loading/reloading. If the barrel is cold and your PRB is tight, you might be in for some frustration.I actually remember one time where I could not get a PRB down the barrel for a second shot because it was so cold. Typically I try to start out with a clean barrel, and load it while the barrel is still "warm". At the end of the day depending on weather, I usually just leave it loaded and pull the cap. I also try to leave the rifle in a cold environment once it is loaded (like my garage). While I have no proof, I've always figured going from hot to cold and back and forth might just cost you a hang fire from condensation on the steel.
 
Going from cold to hot will also cause rust...then when you go outside that condensation will freeze and really complicate things.
 
In Fairbanks I used a thinner mixture for lube. Keeping the pre lubed patches in my coat to keep soft. Reloading was not to bad after a bit of practice. Testing different lubes at different temp zones lets you know what to use when. One of the things I was not expecting was the amount of smoke left infront of you on a still day. Seemed to last forever haha.
 
you will need to stay away from water based lubes and wipes, like murphy soap oil, etc.. the best is bear oil, next is tc lube or bore butter i think its called.. it will just get harder in the cold ,not freeze. i keep mine in my shirt pocket... ive hunted ducks with shotgun to 20 below.. reloading at below +10 degrees sepparates the men from the boys.. be carefull at -20 you can freeze your hands.. load for couple seconds, jamb your hands down into your groin, warm up and load for couple seconds, for fastest loading.. it can take what seems like eternity to load at 20 below. brass measures, gun barrels, etc can caouse frostbite. once you fire i would load immediatly as fouling cools and dries, it gets like cement.. if you cant load becouse of fouling, you can wipe with pure denatured alcohol if needed, i like to mix with murphy soap oil but it will need to be tested at your temp your hunting so it dont freeze.. it also depends on ball tightness, patch thickness, lube type, and humidity or lack of.. there is very little if any humidity at -20.. it needs to be said pure alcohol on your hands at 20 below is probably dangerous.. one time duck hunting at 20 below my wet WOOL pants touched a steel culvert.. (wool will still keep you warm if it is damp)... i thought i was going to have to cut them free as they froze rock hard instantly to the culvert. so your playing with fire, use common sence..i trapped beaver when i was younger and would fall thru the ice, in all types of weather.. all my clothes was pure wool.the old ww2 military pants, shirt,were the best..and a filson mackinaw coat.. you have to take them off wring them out and put them back on, and your fine even at -20.. probably sounds pretty crazy to those that havent been there.. all this new fancy mixed blends of clothing are light, neat looking and stylish but if they get wet, youll probably freeze to death if youve got very far to go.. dave
 
Also as mentioned above avoid bringing COLD gun into WARM HUMID places (e.g. your truck cab, house etc.) if you still have a load inside and don't plan on discharging/cleaning soon. Cold gun will condense moisture. Better to move your gun in a cold car trunk or in a case in your truck bed. I only bring my rifle into unheated garage when I get home. A piece of duct tape over the end of barrel helps to keep this condensation out of the insides (just on the muzzle tip! don't wrap it up).

Our MZ season runs till New Years eve and I've never had a problem with getting things to fire no matter how cold (sub-zero) as long everything was still dry (FFg, CCI #11).

Good luck hunting!
 
when im finished hunting for the day i put my rifle in the vehicle with me,the vehicle is cold from sitting all day,turn on heater,when it starts to warm it is so slow warming everything in your vehicle that your gun wont sweat as it warms,when you get home take your gun in the warm house right away and it will be dry,lightly oil for finger prints and handling,,,,,mine dont sweat useing this method,,,it is so simple to do,,, :v :v
 
.. there are alot of variables here.. if the gun has been fired and its along time till you get home, you may ruin a barrel this[url] way..again[/url] there are variables that would sopport both arguments.. but to be safe, if i fire a ml, i try, if at all possible, run a couple oiled patchs down the bore.. it isnt that hard... dave.
 
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