pre lubed patches

[snagg]

I'm getting to the end of my T/C pre-lubed .018" patches. I bought some pillow ticking a while back and would like to start making my own on a regular basis. I have tried making a couple, but the problem is getting the perfect consistency of the T/C Bore Butter onto the patch like the store bought ones. I read Roundballs mention of the microwave, but I am also not wanting to leave any chance of a problem for the CFO.
How do you fella's do it??

Thanks, snagg

 

[Gemoke]

When I used bore butter( befor I knew better) I used the microwave.
cut finger

 

[Stumpkiller]

I fill a pie tin with Moose Juice and run a six foot strip of 1-1/2" wide ticking through it (like developing 35mm film - but who remembers that?) Two repetitions, allowed to dry while lying flat on wax paper between soakings.

I've seen guys use a putty knife and a pane of glass to lay round pre-cut patches or strips out and apply a grease lube.

With the semi-solid lubes I find it easier to carry a small tin of lube and grease them up just before use or putting the patched balls in a ball-block. When moving I found a cigar box with a couple hundred round .54 size T/C patches (just dry cotton) and that's what I've been doing to use them up. Remember: you only need to lube the side of the patch that touches the barrel.

 

[bwhoffman]

Snagg,
I heat my lube in a double boiler and dip my patches inand let them soak for a while. My patches I cut my self and they are in stacks of 24to 36, runa needle and thread thru them so I can drop them in and then peel off as needed.
After the hot soak, I place them(the stacks) between 2 peices for 1x6 and put 2 clamps on them to squeeze out the excess lube, allow to cool, put inaltoid tin and shoot away!

works for me!
i also use olive oil/ murphys oil soap same way,
They look like store bought to me.
My patchy cutteris a 1 5/16 hole saw sharpenedand afixxed to a door knob, cut 12 layers ata time into a rubber mat.

Brett

 

[shmrck1]

This mite be just me but I lube my patches
just prior to shooting unless I'm hunting when
I will have 6 or 8 prelubed patches in my bag.
I will either use 'moose snot' or natural lube
1000 as a lube. Never had a problem with either.
snake-eyes :hmm:

 

[bullofthewoods]

Is there a difference between moose juice and moose snot? If so, what is it and where can I find the recipie for both?

 

[bwhoffman]

recipes are on this website, do a search for either. They are 2 different lubes, both proven and work equally well.

...stumpy's moose juice and stumpy's moose milk

brett

 

[snagg]

Stumpkiller:

Thanks for your reply. With all that is being said on the forum about different patch lubes freezing up, have you had any problem with the Moose Juice freezing. We get many cold hunting days and I don't care to experience any avoidable problems. I guess I'm becoming a bit concerned on the freeze up problem with B/B. Have you tried B/B for hunting in upstate New York? I'm sure you get the cold up there.

Take care, snagg

 

[snagg]

brett sr: The double boiler is a good idea. I might just give that a try if I decide to stay with T/C's Bore Butter. T/C recommends to only use there product and I have up to now. But now with all that is being said about it freezing I am becoming a bit sceptical.

Thanks, snagg

snakeeyes: I figured for hunting I would take 6 or 8 tubed patch and ball sets in the woods with me. If I shoot more than that and haven't tagged a deer I should probably go home. ha ha
What concerns me is getting that nice consistent lubing on my patch. I might give brett sr's idea of a double boiler a go if I decide to stay with the T/C BB.

Thanks, snagg

Gemoke: The upper Peninsula in Michigan, eh. Have you experienced any B.B. freeze-up. I know for a fact you folks get painful cold up there.

Thanks to all, snagg

 

[Stumpkiller]

The Moose Juice is a version of moose milk, a generic term for a liquid patch lube/powder solvent. Moose Snot is a thicker, grease style lube. I carry the Juice in a 1 oz McCormic vanilla extract bottle that I ground the cap threads off (Mizzy Wheel) and seal with a cork. I carry it year round, including hunting in -15º weather the last couple years here in NY. Hasn't froze yet (and I stay in the woods 5:30AM to 5:30PM if no deer volunteer).

The Snot I carry in tins (Kiwi shoe polish, Altoids, breath mints, etc.) which have been blackened & the paint seared off with a propane torch.

Moose Juice

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using. Can be allowed to dry on dipped patching for a dry lube dry flat on waxed paper & dip twice for best saturation). Add ingredients in the following order and shake well after each is added.

Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphys Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.


Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy’s Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water to the pot so that the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will often be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a generous teaspoon of Murphy’s Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy, smooth and more smearable - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.


These recipes are intended for patch lubrication and black powder residue solvent purposes only. They possess some protective properties but should not be relied on as the sole method of metal protection. A penetrating oil or rust preventative product, such as Birchwood Casey Sheath, is highly recommended for storage between shooting.

 

[snagg]

Stumpkiller:

Thanks for your concise reply. A couple questions for you, though.

1) Is the item in your picture with the five holes a loading block? I've seen the term many times on this forum but never quite new what they were. If it is a loading block, perhaps you could describe in detail the size of the holes and maybe a closer shot of it. I know, I know, I'm asking for a lot now.

2) The Moose Snot seems to be, as you describe it, a good, safe, unfreezing replacement for the T/C Bore Butter. If I'm to assume this to be true, could I also assume that there wouldn't be a need for me to also carry Moose Juice in the woods? Or is there a reason for having both?

Thanks a heap for your help, snagg

 

[Stumpkiller]

If it is a loading block, perhaps you could describe in detail the size of the holes and maybe a closer shot of it. I know, I know, I'm asking for a lot now.

Here's a sampling (all for .54 caliber): The "canoe" block is walnut, 5-3/8" overall length, and the holes are 0.535" (measured with a vernier caliper). The block itself is 0.825" thick. It is my thickest and the reason is to keep lube off my shirts and weskit. :winking: I patterened it after a gorget, but is more "interpretive" than based on any historical item. Works well and is handy, though. The way it hangs means it flops around less. The three hole block on my strap is maple, 0.505" thick, the holes are 0.548"

The five shot purpleheart block is 0.555" thick and the holes are 0.550" around. I started all of these with a 1/2 inch drill (or wood auger in some cases) and smoothed the holes while gradually opening them with a chainsaw file and/or #220 sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. The holes are not perfectly round, but that doesn't seem to matter. I bevel the edge on one side to make it easier to center and push a patched ball in. For a .50 size block I start with a 7/16" drill. I also like to start with a thick block drill the holes, then size it to be about a ball's thickness. It removes any tearing of the wood caused when drilling.

The seven holer is a Track of the Wolf maple block that started as a six holer and I added one. When I'm off for a bunch of shooting I'll carry that one in my haversack. The purpleheart block I carry in a sheath on the back of my hunting bag that was originally for a knife.

The little stub starter is maple and is the only short starter I carry. I even seldom use that one.

could I also assume that there wouldn't be a need for me to also carry Moose Juice in the woods? Or is there a reason for having both?

I'm sort of a crank in that the gear I carry target shooting is the gear I carry hunting is the gear I carry reenacting is the gear I carry on woods walks is the gear I carry . . .

No, you don't need to carry it with you. One of these days I'm going to be couragous enough to go on a deer hunt with only the rifle, horn w/powder measure hanging from the neck, three shot block on the strap and a fierce determination (I have a tow worm, ball puller and spare flint in the patchbox).

I clean up with the Moose Juice. It's a dandy powder solvent (but then, so is water or your own saliva).

 

[Stumpkiller]

Forgot to mention. If you REALLY want to travel light, that little leather pouch in the earlier image is deerskin treated with melted beeswax. I carry ticking soaked in Moose Juice (double treatments and allowed to dry flat overnight in between). That holds a six foot strip - enough for maybe 50 shots - and is the only "lube" needed. Although, you'll probably need to wipe the bore with a spit patch every five shots or so.

 

[snagg]

Thanks for the reply Stumpkiller. That info will certainly get me started on another project. I continue to add to my evergrowing collection of items. The more I can make myself, the better.
I received an e-mail earlier from a fellow that I thought was you. But with your reply here I guess it must have been a fellow member that saw my post.
Anyway, to whomever sent me the e-mail with the attachments, thanks.
snagg

 

[bwhoffman]

Snagg,
'twas me! I was pretty sure that the pic I had copied was that of stumpy's ball blocks.
hopefully no copyright infringment here stumpy :redface: )

Brett

 

[Stumpkiller]

Nope. Anything I post here is for the world to see and share. :hatsoff:

 

[TN.Frank]

Olive Oil for lube, squeeze out the excess, store in an Altoides Tin. Easy, simple and it works.

 

[Lone Carabiner]

Try GO-JO the hand cleaner as patch lube and cleaner. It's cheap so can't hurt to try it. If you don't like it you can use it to clean up with anyway. Don't know how very cold will affect but have used here in NC mountains at below freezing.
I carry patches pre lubed when hunting in a quik-load tube.