pre-measuring or a better method of measuring for revolver?

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I actually measure pour into a tooth I bought at a whaling museum as a kid then into the barrel, that is what I assumed that was what the poster was doing as well.
 
For years now I have been using cigarette papers rolled around a 3/8" dowel and then seal one end with a drop of Elmer's glue. When dry, fill with desired amount of powder and twist the end closed. At the range, I can "break" the twisted end on the edge of the cylinder and dump the powder in, push the paper in and then seat my ball. I know you said that you don't like to deal with papers but they are easy to make and use.

Woody
 
I actually measure pour into a tooth I bought at a whaling museum as a kid then into the barrel, that is what I assumed that was what the poster was doing as well.


That sounds like fun, using a whales tooth.
 
How do you hold this measure? Do you clamp it to a handy table?

In the US you might get away with that, but most everywhere else it would be an instant no-no.
I can't help you with respect to how factory fastens it to a table. I think it may connect to other Lee equipment. Not a big deal to make a connection and bolt it to a table. A (L) shaped bracket, 1, C clamp, and 2 hose or U clamps should do the trick. My post about use was in relation to any non regulated shooting, meaning private shooting.
Larry
 
P1080979.JPG
 
I can't help you with respect to how factory fastens it to a table. I think it may connect to other Lee equipment. Not a big deal to make a connection and bolt it to a table. A (L) shaped bracket, 1, C clamp, and 2 hose or U clamps should do the trick. My post about use was in relation to any non regulated shooting, meaning private shooting.
Larry

Ah, gotcha. No 'private' shooting here, I'm afraid. I understand how it would fasten to a workbench, but I envisaged from the way you described it as being hand-held.
 
Please explain to a noob like me what is prohibited.
thanks ,
Mitch
The reason being that although you can throw a certain charge weight with the proper nozzle from a flask, you STILL have a large amount of powder in the flask. Any ignition source will ignite the entire flask (think grenade) as opposed to a specific container (tube or cartridge) with only that chamber's charge. A much smaller "bang" as opposed to a large KABOOM!
 
Most shooters use what works for them. I pre-measure up to 96 of those tubes shown in the photo at home before the range trip. The lead ball seals the tube. I quite using powder flasks and or measures a decade ago. Lee dippers are accurate enough for my needs. I also don’t shoot light enough loads to need a filler or well enough that an 1/8th of an inch or so that the ball or bullet sits below the forcing cone is going to matter.
Extra balls and powder stored in those wooden boxes are always in the kit if I run out of the pre loads. Every thing needed is in that box plus two revolvers
65B7D09D-5613-415C-82CD-30B5ED01746F.jpeg
 
Most shooters use what works for them. I pre-measure up to 96 of those tubes shown in the photo at home before the range trip. The lead ball seals the tube. I quite using powder flasks and or measures a decade ago. Lee dippers are accurate enough for my needs. I also don’t shoot light enough loads to need a filler or well enough that an 1/8th of an inch or so that the ball or bullet sits below the forcing cone is going to matter.
Extra balls and powder stored in those wooden boxes are always in the kit if I run out of the pre loads. Every thing needed is in that box plus two revolvers View attachment 92446

That's what I've been doing for quite a number of years. Look at my post #13 in this thread for a source for the thread protectors, which are what the Dixie Quick Load tube are. The thread protectors that I cite are cheaper per tube but you have to order bulk. If you are going to shoot a lot, it is worth it.

Prior to first use, I wash them in the laundry machine because they have an oil on them. That oil is used to release them from the mold during the manufacturing process. After washing them in the machine, I let them dry in a warm environment for several days to a week.

If you don't clean them that releasing oil will contaminate the powder.

Inexpensive loading tube
 
Extra balls and powder stored in those wooden boxes are always in the kit if I run out of the pre loads.
Is your powder box lined with tin or other metal, or is it finished on the inside? It looks like a snug-fitted, rimmed lid that closes relatively tightly.
Powder box.png


I like it! Wood or sheet metal containers for muzzle loading gear seem more apt (though less convenient) than plastic.

I've got a box that might work for that... but it has no liner.
 
I love the process of loading a revolver, almost more than firing. Hold barrel in left hand, grab your flask first, and then pick up your powder measure in your flask hand with index finger and thumb. Transfer measure to left hand and hold with your index and thumb while still holding barrel. Pour, set flask in bag, transfer hands, dump in a chamber, rotate cylinder, pick up flask, repeat, then wads, then balls.

But if speed is what you want, don't circumvent the history with plastic devices to hold powder and whatnot. Use paper cartridges. I mean, you might as well just do it the right way. You're a paper cartridge guy anyway, it seems...you just don't know that about yourself yet...
 
I made a couple of dippers from brass cartridge cases. I can just dip and pour, say 25 grains of BP in each cylinder, then go back with a ball and seat. Goes pretty quickly.
 

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