Hello, I'm a newbie. I have instructions in a book for skinning bucks/game and removing the fur and tanning/stretching, but I do not know how to actually preserve the fur with the hide. I'd rather keep skins with the fur for display then make buckskin. What supplies do I need? If anyone knows of a book that has pictures and step-by-step guides, let me know! Coyotes, bobcat, deer, racoon, etc...
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Preserving fur/hide
- Thread starter Erik550c
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2010
- Messages
- 4,517
- Reaction score
- 1,816
Just a bit more info plz. Are you asking how, or how useing traditional ways?
Patocazador
54 Cal.
When first skinning the animal, using salt on the hide will draw out the moisture and help preserve it until you get home and can treat it properly with borax, etc.
Patocazador
54 Cal.
It's best to just google it to get a primer on tanning with the hair on.
Black Hand
Cannon
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Messages
- 9,348
- Reaction score
- 896
The cheapest method is to scrape and salt the skins. This will preserve the skins indefinitely (keep from moisture) and retain the hair. The skins will not be soft, but they will be preserved.Erik550c said:
Tanning is another matter entirely, and there are many ways this can be accomplished depending on the final product you desire.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 20,091
- Reaction score
- 1,023
Dixietan paste.....
http://www.minntrapprod.com/Dixietan-Paste/productinfo/DT-1LB/
http://www.minntrapprod.com/Dixietan-Paste/productinfo/DT-1LB/
Last edited by a moderator:
I've used this:
https://www.amazon.com/Deer-Hunter...d=1467061167&sr=8-3&keywords=tanning+solution
Worked well, but on my thicker hides (raccoon and beaver) they still came out stiff. Even following the directions to the "T". Not sure why their still stiff like cardboard almost. I've tried working the hide across a board but after a few hours of working it they still only come out so soft.
https://www.amazon.com/Deer-Hunter...d=1467061167&sr=8-3&keywords=tanning+solution
Worked well, but on my thicker hides (raccoon and beaver) they still came out stiff. Even following the directions to the "T". Not sure why their still stiff like cardboard almost. I've tried working the hide across a board but after a few hours of working it they still only come out so soft.
Last edited by a moderator:
Walnut, bark,ect will stain the fur. Alum and salt work well and is fast but won't get as soft as chrome. Brain tanning is the eaisist but is labor intensive for one day. A fur on hide will not get as soft as fur off.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 20,091
- Reaction score
- 1,023
If one decides to go the route of using what a professional taxidermist would use.....Please note the safety instructions....some of the chemicals and acids used are no joke...they can be very dangerous to work with and hazardous to ones health.Curt said:
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 20,091
- Reaction score
- 1,023
It's been my experience that most people never read certain things....Directions, signs, warning labels, forum posts...etc.... :haha:
Seriously though I know A guy who screwed his lungs up breathing in the acid fumes....
Reading is one thing....comprehending is another.
Seriously though I know A guy who screwed his lungs up breathing in the acid fumes....
Reading is one thing....comprehending is another.
I've used van dykes on about 4-5 deer hides they have the instructions for hair on or off. easy to follow instructions, best time to do it is when it's warm outside. You can roll and freeze the hide...It will kill the ticks, Just one thing a rolled up hide takes a very long time to freeze thru, all that insulating fur ya know.
cabelas or bass pro several places on the web has it.
cabelas or bass pro several places on the web has it.
CC it has been over 30 years since I have used their stuff but i dont think it was anything too hazzardist .but then I cant remember what i had for breakfest either.I still have the 3 hides i tanned and there still in good shape hangin on the wall.
colorado clyde said:
Had a buddy strike gold in AK. He died about 8 yrs later from the fumes of whatever they were using that took out his liver. "the fever" made em careless I guess. Chemicals can do harm fer sure!
Chems can kill, even if you ain't stupid. Most of the time taking care and following directions is all you need to do. However the prime cause made a dead animal all you need to preserve the hide.
The most you need to protect your self from alum and salt is rubber gloves, and if you wash well and use wooden tool you can get by with out gloves unless your very sensitive.
Brains,lard, neatsfoot oil, naphtha soap, tallow can all be used to tan with out rubber gloves or chems that can toast you.
The most you need to protect your self from alum and salt is rubber gloves, and if you wash well and use wooden tool you can get by with out gloves unless your very sensitive.
Brains,lard, neatsfoot oil, naphtha soap, tallow can all be used to tan with out rubber gloves or chems that can toast you.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 20,091
- Reaction score
- 1,023
Plan B would be to send your furs to a professional tanner and have them do the dirty work...
Check around locally...but here is one such example for comparison......I think the prices are reasonable considering the P.I.T.A. factor. http://www.usafoxx.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=62_109
Check around locally...but here is one such example for comparison......I think the prices are reasonable considering the P.I.T.A. factor. http://www.usafoxx.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=62_109
Last edited by a moderator:
