Pressure Flaking Flint Edge

[M. De Land]

Here is my video of pressure flaking
http://vid224.photobucket.com/albu...os/Pressure flaking gun flint_zpsxhjxghkm.mp4

 

[George]

Good video, thanks.

Spence

 

[M. De Land]

Did it come through OK?

 

[M. De Land]

That piece of emery wheel ground across the flint edge must have been worth a dozen cock strokes of wear against the frizzen. :rotf:
Pained me to do it after setting up that nice edge.

 

[rushlake1]

M.D. Thank You...You make it look easy! :bow:

Headed down to my shop to build a pressure flaker
and to practice! :thumbsup:

Just added to my favorites

 

[M. De Land]

It is easy and you'll have it down in no time.
The backing of leather or wood is important in flake control and to keep from getting cut.
Those flake edges are actually every bit as sharp as a razor.

 

[gwalker]

Thanks M.D.; your video was very informative. I have one of those pressure flakers like you show. Mine is a steel rod embedded in an antler tip. Your video will help me master its use.

George

 

[rushlake1]

I used a 1/4" brass rod worked to a point driven in a wood file handle..
Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy

Will make one out of antler handle next for shooting bag.

 

[M. De Land]

You probably noticed how the flint in the pistol still wanted to make sparks after twice, purposely dulling the new edge with the emery wheel.
That is because of the serrated edge. The flake scarf ridges protect the sharp edges in between which keep peeling off steel from the frizzen.

 

[M. De Land]

Brass will work but copper grounding wire being softer will grip the edge better.
Heck, I use a soft steel nail in an antler handle for notching arrow points.
Antler points sharpened up work very well also for pressure flaking.They may even be better than copper but need sharpening more often.

 

[M. De Land]

One more thought on the advantages of using a serrated edge is that there is more edge area striking the frizzen face each time than is present with a level ground edge. More spark generation potential.
My guess is that the irregular edge is also less likely to create ridges in the frizzen face because of the irregular angular shearing of steel.
I know that manipulating the edge up or down helps relieve frizzen gouging as it allows the full thickness of the flint to be used up if necessary.

 

[Don Steele]

:hatsoff:
Mike,
That is an outstanding presentation. I really appreciate the time you took to make that great video and put it up. Very clear instruction. I have popsicle sticks, now I'm off to hunt up an appropriate piece of copper and get started practicing.

 

[fleener]

MD

thanks for taking the time to do this for those of us that needed it.

Now you made the mistake of telling us your name and to let us see your face. :grin: I thought you would be taller in person :blah:

I will head to the hardware store today to see if they have any of the large dia. grounding wire.

Fleener

 

[fleener]

you mentioned gouging. I seem to have that happening with my .40 that I have not shot much. \

Is this normal? or if not, how do you try to keep this from happening?

Thanks

fleener

 

[SgtErv]

Awesome. Thank you for sharing!

Ive been trying to learn how to lengthen flint life, as I think this will be a good lesson in how to do that.

My flint for my fire kit gets mighty banged up too. This should come in handy

 

[stikshooter]

Picture is worth a thousand words ,off to make one !

 

[azmntman]

Thank yo :thumbsup: u Sir!

 

[john p. madaus]

Very informative video thanks

 

[Tallswife]

Great demo!! Thank you for sharing it, and I hope you don't mind that I shared it to our Colonial group facebook page.

Thank you again!

 

[Skychief]

Well done, many thanks. I appreciate the time and effort. :thumbsup:

Best regards, Skychief