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Priming powder timing

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Rocky Johnson

45 Cal.
Joined
Nov 5, 2003
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April 05 Muzzle Blast Magazine has an interesting artical on priming power by Larry Pletcher. He tested two differant Swiss and four Goex powders for timing,bottom line shooters can't tell the differance,in the speed, it took scientific means. :winking: Rocky
 
Pretty good article: about one one-hundreth of a second faster if you use fine grained priming powder instead of fffg load powder. Other studies I have read about said no difference, but measurement techniques may have varied. If you are a target/competition shooter, I can see why you might want to use modern fine priming powder, but if you reenact/do period events, it is more PC to use the same powder that you load with to prime..... :m2c:
 
I was kind of startled, actually. I try to use FFg in any gun that uses it for the main charge, and it was ambling along 50% slower than the Swiss priming (with the solenoid trigger time backed out for both). Now, that's only 0.04 seconds, but in a target shoot the front sight may move measureably in that time. 'Course, with me it may move closer to the bullseye in that 0.04 seconds. ::

When I get time I may factor out the two best and two worst times for each and see how the results compare. The FFg has one VERY lousy firing that skewed the data. That might have been the flint's fault and not the powder. (In Chemistry and Biology we were taught to disguard the highest and lowest results in a string of tests when trying to establish the mean).

I was actually considering breaking down and replacing the tiny priming horn I gave away whan I got my Bess.
 
:results:

But I don't think I can tell the difference if it's 1 1/100 of a secound?
 
I don't think I could tell the difference either. But offhand at 100 yards I think the scorekeeper could MEASURE the difference.
 
I don't think I could tell the difference either. But offhand at 100 yards I think the scorekeeper could MEASURE the difference.

FWIW, that's kind of how I feel about it...don't care what the amount of difference is...or whether some people can or can't tell the difference or not...I want the absolute fastest of everything associated with ignition...kind of like how people must feel when they meticulously line up the weave exactly the same way every shot, I deon't want to know I'm intentionally using something slower than I could be using...but that's just me
 
Here in humid Florida, I wonder if the advantage of a SLIGHTLY faster ignition of 4f priming powder would be OFFSET by its quicker absorption of moisture than 3f? In my limited flintlock experience, have seen 4f in the flashpan turn to a gooey mess.
 
Here in humid Florida, I wonder if the advantage of a SLIGHTLY faster ignition of 4f priming powder would be OFFSET by its quicker absorption of moisture than 3f? In my limited flintlock experience, have seen 4f in the flashpan turn to a gooey mess.

Yes, I suppose if someone has extremely high humidity most of the time, it might be more trouble than it's worth.
In general, our North Carolina humidity is fading some by hunting season but we still have a good number of humid days just from cloudy / raining times...on those humid days I check / refresh prime often, every 30-60 minutes depending, but never go more than an hour no matter what...takes 15 seconds and costs less than a penny...I carry a little pocket pan primer tethered in a shirt pocket...
 
Roundball - I guess N. Fla. in winter would be similiar to NC in that we have clear dry days and rainy wet ones :hmm: You're using 4f at range and in the woods?
 
Roundball - I guess N. Fla. in winter would be similiar to NC in that we have clear dry days and rainy wet ones :hmm: You're using 4f at range and in the woods?


4F is all I use for priming, period...as I mentioned, it's never been a problem, I just refresh it often in humid weather.

As you know, when you open the frizzen and tilt a flintlock back and forth, if the prime is dry, it'll slide back and forth in a clean pan very easily. However, if I tilt the rifle further and further, and the prime still holds together in place like it's getting a 'skin' or some 'body' to it, before it finally moves in the pan, it's way past due needing to be changed.

While sitting on stand there's not much else to do anyway so it's good therapy for me to check the prime every 10-15 minutes (flip, tilt, close)...as soon as I see that it's not sloshing around easily, I flip it out, reprime, close the frizzen. Every time I've shot a deer, ignition has been perfect...from bluebird weather to fog & mist so heavy I couldn't see 40yds.

I can understand those who pursue as much PC technique as possible like to prime from the same horn, etc...but since I already hunt with TC Hawkens, using a pocket pan primer is not an issue for me...most convenient muzzleloading accessory I have...3 grns every time.
 
Roundball ?? My primer is 3 grns. also and that is too much for my gpr. I have better luck with half that.. :winking: Rocky
 
Well what I have experienced using the "Null B" and 4F Swiss is that is does not have the problem of turning into GOO, at least not as bad as the others...And that the intensity of the flash is very noticeable and the shot to shot reliability of ignition has gotten better...One other advantage is the Null B doesn't foul up the lock and have deposits on the barrel and frizzen, I don't have to wipe the lock down like I used to...Is it a noticeable improvement??? YES....And is it worth the money, I just bought 3 pounds to make sure I have a supply... :imo:

As for humidiity...I shoot and hunt in the area between Tampa Bay and Fort Myers on the left coast of Florida...

OHJ
 
Roundball ?? My primer is 3 grns. also and that is too much for my gpr. I have better luck with half that.. :winking: Rocky

Fills my pans 1/2-2/3 full...works perfectly
 

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