Priming w/ main charge powder

[Flint311]

I've primed with the same powder as the main charge (2 &3F) just to see what works and check for delays. It always went off well. Is there a slight variation in heat temp. to prime with the same grain? Ie: will 2f set off 2f quick as 3f will set off 3f? I really wouldn't think so, but 2f went off quite fast when charged and primed the same.

Another thing, when priming with 4f. Has anyone noticed when you use less in the pan and let it fill the liner a little, it doesn't "fuse", but will have fast ignition? My playing around with this one was brought on by over thinking it. I was wondering about the fuse effect when carrying a rifle on a hunt and not checking the prime for a while. The rifle gets carried around, moved around, and the prime must get thrown around, filling the touch hole. Without "thumping" the lock side, will it fire quickly? Yes, but my experiment isn't scientific. I have to build my "control" rifle (soon!).

These are some random thoughts about flintlocks and things I've noticed. They aren't hard to figure out, if you find what they like, then go from there. The "over thinking" part was trying to learn them and how finicky they are. Not very I'm finding. :thumbsup:

 

[62flint]

I use my main horn to reprime for a rapid follow up shot. It does go off slightly slower than 4f.But when I am hunting a milli second of ignition does not matter to me.Also I have heard that 2f and 3f is coated and does not absorb moisture as fast.I can not vouch for this as I always prime with 4f when hunting for my first shot and 2nds if I have time to dig my priming flask out of my bag. I know a lot of people that load and prime from the same horn. I just noticed when I am at the range 4f is lightly faster. I can not tell when hunting.
As for priming the pan I fill the pan to a level slightly below the touch hole for hunting. For range work I will use a little less powder.
Also for touch hole size I use a slightly large hole. And I also prefer whitelightning liners.I drill the out slighty after installing them.
Just my 2 cents, your exp. may differ.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Anything with a "g" at the tail end is graphite coated. i.e. FFFg, FFFFg.

I fire off 3Fg with 3Fg and don't detect any speed difference from 4Fg, but 2Fg was not as reliable in my own experimentation.

I don't worry so much about the pan prime jostling side to side. When hunting I tend to fill the pan nearly full so it doesn't much matter if it has been bumped. My vent is partially blocked by the frizzen heel when closed so it doesn't get blocked with powder. I try to keep a good follow through so even if it does fuse instead of flash I still send the ball where it's intended.

 

[Golfswithwolves]

Some folks feel that 3F does not absorb moisture in the pan as easily as 4F so is better for wet weather.

 

[dry ball john]

:grin: I'm not sure but I think you might have too much time on your hands.(No pun intended) When I first started shooting black powder I thought that you had to have 4f to prime with and after purchasing a pound of the stuff I thought it would never go away sooo my main load is 3f I got a motar and pestle (spelling) and started to grind my own 4f. One of my buddies advised that In the olden days the riflemen of past used the same powder for prime and load. I started doeing it and have never changed since.Good Luck in your experiment John

 

[graybeard]

Sometimes I prime from a small primer flask with a spring-loaded nozzle, using 4f. sometimes I prime from the horn, using 3f. Can't tell the difference. it is more convenient to use the small flask, but it won't hold enough 4f to shoot our woodswalk. I believe the difference in ignition time is measurable, but not noticeable by the shooter. graybeard

 

[Larry Pletcher]

Sometimes I prime from a small primer flask with a spring-loaded nozzle, using 4f. sometimes I prime from the horn, using 3f. Can't tell the difference. . . . . I believe the difference in ignition time is measurable, but not noticeable by the shooter. graybeard

You are quite correct. I timed ffg, fffg, ffffg powders for an article in MuzzleBlasts (April '05). The fastest powder that I timed was Swiss Null B. I like Swiss Null B but can't hear the difference between it and fffg.

Regards,
Pletch

 

[roundball]

"...Sometimes I prime from a small primer flask with a spring-loaded nozzle, using 4f..."

"...It is more convenient to use the small flask, but it won't hold enough 4f to shoot our woodswalk..."

4F is all I prime with...I use a few different primimg horns (a.k.a.pan primers) with the 3grn plunger dispenser and I like the precision and ease & speed of priming with it...carry it in a shirt pocket when[url] hunting...in[/url] this photo the horn primer holds about 300-400 grains, the antler primer holds about 100

 

[2172]

I prime with either 4f or 3f...I still have some 4f on hand, so am using it from one of the spring loaded pan fillers...when it is used up, I'll just prime from my horn, and I only use 3f in it...if there is a difference in ignition, I don't notice it. I've been told that 3f is a hair more reliable on humid days, but I have only anecdotal evidence of that..Hank

 

[Marlan]

If I'm shooting my Brown Bess, then ffg goes down the bore, and ffg is also used to prime. If I'm shooting my .62 calibre, then fffg goes down the bore, and fffg goes in the pan, from the same horn.

However, if I'm shooting my .50 calibre Tennessee, then ffg goes down the bore, but I prime with ffffg from a spring loaded primer flask....

 

[Stophel]

When I first started, I thought you "Had" to use 4f to prime with. Then I later thought, surely 200 years ago, 4f might be hard to come by, so I started just priming out of my main charge horn (2f), and haven't looked back. I can tell absolutely NO difference whatsoever.

 

[paulvallandigham]

:hatsoff: :thumbsup:

I not only tried FFg for priming, but I asked a couple of shooting buddies to stand on either side of me, and tell me if they could hear or determine a difference in the ignition time for the two powders, FFFFg, and FFg. It was unanimous. I specifically told them not to look when I primed the pan, so they didn't know what powder I put in the pan for which shots. I know from Pletcher's article that there is a slight difference in ignition time, but its in milliseconds, and we could not tell the difference. I am using FFg in my .50 cal. flintlock, for both the main charge and to prime. I only use the FFFFg powder when I am at the range, because I have more than half a pound of it left! When its gone, its gone. Oh, I may keep some sifted " fines" around to put under the nipple of percussion guns that are dry balled, or have fouled powder charge in them, to shoot the loads out, but other than that, I don't see much of any reason to continue to use 4Fg powder, other than out of habit. Habit has been guiding me for about 30 years and I think its about time I let own brain take charge.

 

[Larry Pletcher]

:hatsoff: :thumbsup:

I not only tried FFg for priming, but I asked a couple of shooting buddies to stand on either side of me, and tell me if they could hear or determine a difference in the ignition time for the two powders, FFFFg, and FFg. It was unanimous. I specifically told them not to look when I primed the pan, so they didn't know what powder I put in the pan for which shots. I know from Pletcher's article that there is a slight difference in ignition time, but its in milliseconds, and we could not tell the difference. snipped

PAul,
Thanks a good way to test. I'm amazed at the shooting acquaintances that tell me they can tell the difference. My personal view is that if you think a shot sounded slow, it was caused by something besides the grain size - like poor flint management, poor touch hole care,(you can add to the list) etc.

I do like Swiss nullB and will continue to use it except in very humid conditions. In a line match shooting at paper I need all the help I can get. :grin:

Regards,
Pletch

 

[Flint311]

Thanks for the replies :thumbsup: and nice primers roundball! I've noticed the amount of powder can make more of a difference than the grain of powder. That's where the push primers helped me learn "how much".
Thought it may be just me, as I could only get Elephant powder. Now Schuetzen is available, but more $$. I'll try that when I run out of the Elephant. I know it doesn't always get rave revues, but it reeks havoc on black bear. Just wanted to (possibly) help newer flintlock shooters find out why their gun doesn't work the way they hoped, etc. The best thing with a flinter is to let the gun tell you what it likes. Perfect chance to PLAY!