Priming with 3F

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My current favorite priming horn is a little Colt Baby Flask. If carries well in the pocket and gives good flow control. It will handle any grade powder. Since I load once from a pre-measured container but prime a few times while hunting, it is easy to use without opening another vial. When I have primed with 3F I have had no issues, although I prefer 4F or Null B when shooting in a match.

ADK Bigfoot
 
Sorry I didn't make myself clear. Yes I was planning on using 3f for both the main charge and the pan but what I wanted to know is what are people using to prime the pan? From what I read the "pan primers" work with 4f but I don't see any where that they will work with 3f. Or are people just not using "pan primers" and pouring directly into the pan from the powder horn (which seems incredibly unsafe) or using something else to put 3f into the pan.
I hope that clears up what I'm asking.
I bought a pan primer, it doesn’t work very well with 3f so I use a small flask used for pistols filled with 3f
 
remember that back in the day they primed with the same powder that they charged there weapon with, no priming horn with 4fg, just tear the paper cartridge and prime & load. I have tried 4fg, 3fg, 2fg, 1fg & 1 1/2fg and they all worked. remember ADAPT, IMPROVISE, OVERCOME!, if need be.
 
Priming from the paper cartridge was a military, line of battle practice. Civilian practice was to measure powder from a container (horn or flask) and prime before being ready to fire.
 
I'm just curious I'm getting my first flintlock soon and only have 3f powder. So just in case I can't find 4f I need to use 3f what are people who are using 3f using for pan primers? Thanks I'm sure I'll have more questions. Thanks
Can you us 3f certainly, even 2f will work. At the last world championships (factory teams) Flinters were priming with 6f. Personally myself and others use a marble mortor and pistol available at a kitchen supply ($15) to grind 4f to about 5f or so. Yes it is only minutely faster detectable in slow mo, but in heavy humidity will gum up. Is it historically correct absolutely no. So it depends on how serious a person is hitting a target or a bird If using a shotgun. So there’s a pro and con. Doc,
 
I didn't start using 3fg powder until I built my .32 caliber squirrel gun. I use the same 3fg in the pan and the main charge. I prime right from the horn. There's no danger involved with priming from the horn.
 
Sorry I didn't make myself clear. Yes I was planning on using 3f for both the main charge and the pan but what I wanted to know is what are people using to prime the pan? From what I read the "pan primers" work with 4f but I don't see any where that they will work with 3f. Or are people just not using "pan primers" and pouring directly into the pan from the powder horn (which seems incredibly unsafe) or using something else to put 3f into the pan.
I hope that clears up what I'm asking.
You mean what do we use to dispense 3f powder into the pan? My small priming horn with a stoppered mouth will do it. My large Horn will do it, too, but it pours too much powder too fast and care is needed to avoid dumping powder all over the place. Those plunger primers which dispense a set amount of powder are made for 4f and, like short starters, I doubt they were common equipment, if they even existed back in the day! I have been considering the purchase of a small mortar and pestle to turn my 3f into finer powder. for match shooting. But 3f works fine for everything else.
 
I've used both 3F and 4F powder to prime the pan and can't tell a difference in speed of ignition or reliability. I happen to use 4F because I was given several pounds of Goex 4F. (That's a LOT of priming.) And I use a small brass spring loaded charger to prime the pan as it gives me more control. If I still hunted I would prime from the horn to keep things simple.

Jeff
I use one of those spring loaded chargers too - mostly for serious target work! I have noticed that they tend to clog easily, especially on humid days! Never had that happen with my stoppered horn and 3f powder.
 
I have used both the horn and the brass priming tool that Gus spoke of, and used fffg and ffffg in the brass priming tool with no problems.
Also used ffg straight from the horn and couldn't tell the difference in the field. At the bench may be another story.
Ymmv
I suspect that as long as you get good hot sparks, and plenty of them, the only way to tell any difference between powders would be with a chronograph! But, as you say, "at the bench is another story!" There you want every advantage - real or perceived!
 
Sorry I didn't make myself clear. Yes I was planning on using 3f for both the main charge and the pan but what I wanted to know is what are people using to prime the pan? From what I read the "pan primers" work with 4f but I don't see any where that they will work with 3f. Or are people just not using "pan primers" and pouring directly into the pan from the powder horn (which seems incredibly unsafe) or using something else to put 3f into the pan.
I hope that clears up what I'm asking.
Just use the 3Fg powder for both. Yes 4Fg is finer and burns very slightly faster, but you have to have scientific instruments on hand to detect the difference in speed. Another problem with 4Fg is that it absorbs moisture and turns into goo in the pan more quickly than 3f. So humidity and of course rain are harder to deal with.

I used to do a LOT of reenactments starting back in about 2001 or 2002 until 2015 when I moved to the Pacific Northwest. We often used 2F powder in our rifles at reenactments because that's what the muskets used and the paper cartridges provided were filled with 2F powder. Even that worked just fine. Anytime I'm shooting where I supply my own powder, I load 3Fg both in the pan and as the main charge. No need to go buy a can of 4Fg to use strictly for priming. Until very recently priming horns were not thought to be used at all in the 18th Ct. and then a few years ago some horns showed up. Problem was they couldn't decide whether they were indeed used for smaller granulation powder to charge the pan, or whether they were used for salt, pepper, or other spices.

Save yourself some headache and extra expense. Buy 3F powder and use it for everything.
 
Interesting discussion. Now I'll have to do some experimenting to find out:

a) will my pan primer flow the 3F, and

B) will my guns work just as well with a 3F prime as they do with a 4F prime.

It would be kind of nice to only have to stock one powder. Not a huge deal though since one pound of 4F does a couple thousand primes.
For almost 20-years now I have only used 3F powder to charge the pan and as the main charge for both of my .50 caliber longrifles.

By the way, you do NOT want to put powder into the vent hole. If you do you are likely to get that fuse effect ignition where the pan goes "whoosh" and then the main charge goes "boom" like in so many movies. That's because any powder in the flash hole (vent) has to burn before the flash can get to the main charge. Whereas if it is a clear channel, the flash from the pan travels to the main charge, virtually instantaneously and it just goes Boom!

My first longrifle was a Traditions PA Longrifle and it has a small lock (basically a pistol lock). It worked best if I only filled that little pan half-full; closed the pan; flicked my wrist quickly to the right to bank the powder away from the vent; and then fired. Worked perfectly as long as I did that. With my current longrifle I have an L&R Queen Anne lock which is much bigger and it doesn't care how much or how little powder is in there, it goes off just fine every time (well, as long as you're getting a decent spark from your flint). So powder in the vent hole is NOT desirable.

So don't obsess about grain size and the difference in speed that can only be detected by scientific instruments because the difference cannot be discerned from observation by the human brain. Just get the 3f and enjoy shooting your muzzleloading black powder rifle!
 
Well thanks everyone. But I guess I need to make it clear that I only have 3f powder. This whole thread was because I just wanted to know what people were using to put 3f powder into their pans because all the priming dispensers I saw were for 4f and I only have 3f. I will be using either a powder dispenser or one of my flasks for my pistols or just the powder horn to prime the pan with 3F powder. Again Thanks
 
The next time I go to the rifle range, I'm going to try 2fg in the pan with my .54 caliber. I've heard that even 2fg in the pan will ignite quickly.
 
I'm just curious I'm getting my first flintlock soon and only have 3f powder. So just in case I can't find 4f I need to use 3f what are people who are using 3f using for pan primers? Thanks I'm sure I'll have more questions. Thanks
Sure, you can do it. Some shooters on the forum use 3fg to prime often. I've done it on occasion myself when I've left my priming horn at home. So it works.
 
The next time I go to the rifle range, I'm going to try 2fg in the pan with my .54 caliber. I've heard that even 2fg in the pan will ignite quickly.
I've used 1fg in the pan of my King's Musket. Worked great. But then the Brown Bess was designed to work with all grades of powder. I don't recommend such coarse powder for all flintlocks. Since @oncewas was asking about powder dispensers, discussion about powder grades is way off topic. I'll stand by my earlier posts.
 
This is the little fellow I use, runs 2 or 3 fine for prime and kicker when shooting pyrodex
D7D0F5E2-A72F-4D2B-9F77-BF5FF0940E03.jpeg
D7D0F5E2-A72F-4D2B-9F77-BF5FF0940E03.jpeg
 
After reading this discussion yesterday morning I tried the 3F as primer with my .50 caliber Traditions Trapper pistol yesterday afternoon. The 3F flowed nicely out of my little brass pan primer and every shot ignited without any noticeable delay.
 
When I was very active doing trekking, shooting and hunting I carried a single horn which contained 2 F I was using either my fouler or my Chiefs grade. Both are in 62 cal. I primed with the 2F and never noticed anything less than instant ignition.
many loose sight of the fact that you need a simple explosion in the pan that moves through the touch hole. If you prime with a lot of powder and it flows through the touch hole you have a fuse that slows ignition.
juat my two cents based on my own experience
 
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