Nice job by the OP making do with what's on hand. I've no doubt he'll do even better with proper tools and parts. 
Problem getting spark thru to powder... Help!
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CVA isn't a paten breech like the others
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Thanks for the tip on leaving that stubborn screw alone. Removing the nipple was all needed to get in and clean house...
Expecting amazone to deliver the parts soon and then some happy times at the range.
Once again thanks for all sharing wisdom and experience here.
Expecting amazone to deliver the parts soon and then some happy times at the range.
Once again thanks for all sharing wisdom and experience here.
Bill Bryan
40 Cal.
You probably also need a brass ramrod brush and breach scraper in the appropriate caliber for range and home cleaning. Bill
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Remove the nipple and clean the fire channel with a bristled pipe cleaner.
RP, I looked at Chapman's page. Very interesting. Which set would you recommend for a start on some good gun smithing tools?
Search the archives here for "stuck brush" before you try that solution. You will be very glad you read about it before trying it. BTDT circa 1978, and can truthfully tell you I never tried it again.
I bought what I think is the Gunsmithing set in the 70's at my local GS, but have yet to use the Phillips bits. I have replaced maybe a third of the bits and added additional ones as need arose over time. Last time I ordered, 2-3 years ago, replacement bits cost $1.50. My wife has the sewing package which is only slightly different than the gs set. They have great size dimensions on every bit in the parts section, so you can see exactly what you get.
I like them because they have performed well for me for 40+ years and don't cost $20-40 to replace if you damage one. The bits are supposed to break before you damage the screw. I'm a hobbyist with no aspirations to be a professional gunsmith, so see no need for better quality, high end, $$$$ stuff. Money saved goes to powder and lead.
HTH
^^^^Good advice...^^^
Why put anti-seize on a clean out screw, when they are not intended to be removed? Better off to weld them in place.
If there's a screw, somebody is bound to think it has to be unscrewed. The designers and manufacturers weren't thinking when they put those in there.
I concur. I’ve never removed a clean-out screw and never will. Not even on my Traditions Crockett rifle.
It was just a week or so ago that someone posted a picture of a Crockett rifle with the side of it blown off. That was on the opposite side from the lock where the clean-out screw is located on a Crockett rifle.
Traditions does state to remove the clean/out screw in their owners manual. However, if you notice, in the directions it states to remove the clean-out screw from the “bolster/drum”.
I’ve also never applied anti-seize on a nipple since 1981 and I’ve never encountered a stuck nipple.
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I missed that one, got a link to the post ? I tried the search and couldn't find it. Thanks
Howdy, Ron.
No I do not remember where it was posted on here but I’m sure someone does.
EDIT: See post below.
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Thanks !
So, let me get this straight. On the Crockett rifle, there are threaded ports on both sides of the barrel at the breech end. The one opposite the bolster identified as a Clean out screw, which appears to be the same thread size as the drum thread, and the bolster/drum clean out screw, about half the size. Why would anyone call something a clean out screw if they didn’t want it removed for cleaning.. Seems not thought out grammatically.
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