Progressive Priming

In percussion revolver shooting, if using FFFg powder (or Pyrodex P), does it lead to more complete combustion if one adds a small amount of FFFFg first when loading? I.e., the cap would ignite the FFFFg, which would in turn ignite the FFFg.

Just thinking out loud here as I load my Colt Model 1860 .44.

Tom

 

[Zonie]

IMO adding FFFFg would be a waste of time.
The primer is so close to the powder, the explosion following the hammer fall is virtually instantaneous.

 

[Deadeye]

Yep, waste of time.
Deadeye

 

[musketman]

Yep, waste of time.

And powder...

You could just load with all FFFFg and be done with it...

 

Ditto what every body else said.
Actually the old Lyman Black Powder Manual listed loads of 4fg for most all revolvers.
All the newer publications list 3fg loads.

 

[Zonie]

"All the newer publications list 3fg loads."
Probably on advice of some learned councel.

The FFFFg (4Fg) is much finer and creates higher pressures than the FFFg (3Fg) or Pyrodex P because it burns faster. It's not as large of an increase as Bullseye vs Unique but there is no doubt that the pressure is higher.

If you stop and think about it, all of the old guns were proof tested, and they had to be with the poor quality of the steel/iron available back then.

Now, with modern steel being used to produce guns, proofing is not so important but with Cap and Ball Revolvers you still must realize the design is old. (That is why you have it, right?)
Some of the wall thicknesses, especially on the .44 cal Italian and Spanish made guns have very thin cylinder walls.
You should also be aware that the "Proof Mark" on the side of the cylinder/frame is based on sample inspection of one or two guns out of thousands produced. Your gun was most likely not tested.

Perhaps I'm covering my A$$ by sticking to the FFFg or Pyrodex P and not loading the FFFFg but at lease I can count on having a couple of hands to cover it with.

 

[Darryl]

I agree, dumping a small bit of 4F before the 3F is a waste of time. However having a small amount of either grade of black powder before pyrodex may help. It's just such a hassle to do this 6 times to load a revolver. I have used progressive (or duplex loads?) in my flintlock. I have a bunch of pyrodex, so I put 10 grains of 3F, then 60 grains of pyrodex all under a patched ball. With 4F in the pan it goes off as if the load was all 3F.