Putting an edge on new tomahawk

[Steve A.]

Hey all. I just got my first hawk from TOW. I need to put an edge on it,but i have no experience. What's the best way?. My dad has an old electric grinder i could probly borrow. I'm kinda nervous. I don't wanna grind too much on it. 2nd part of the question. Once i do get an edge on it. Will that be enough to get it sharp,or do i need to follow that up with something else. Thanks for any help,and please forgive my ignorance.

 

[Joel Boyles]

Just an opinion, (and you know what they say about opinions) I'd use a good file to put the first edge on it, especially if you've never sharpened tools with a bench grinder. Just keep the angle the same from side to side. Good luck, and enjoy it!

Joel

 

[blacksmithman64]

A good file will do it,they generally aren't hardened steel.A bench or angle grinder might eat up more than you want.

 

[Birdman]

Kid, I'd go with the file too, ya can Google up Sharpening a hatchet or axe n ya should find plenty of instruction on the specifics of how to do it.

 

[Steve A.]

Thanks guys :hatsoff: I'm glad i asked before i started grinding away. I didn't think a file would be enough. Just took a few test swipes. I don't think it'l take long at all.

 

[paulvallandigham]

It depends on the size of the axe, and what work you want to do with it. Some people want to use the axe instead of a splitting mawl. If so, put a 90 degree angle on the blade. For most axe uses, cutting across grain, you are best served with a 60 degree angle( 30 degrees to each bevel). However, If this is a throwing tomahawk, and you want it to stick, you probably want to reduce that bevel down to 45 Degrees( 221/2 degrees on each side) I have seen 30 degree bevels, but the edges turn and bend very easy with that fine a bevel, and they don't stand up to a lot of throwing impacts before you have to straighten the edges, and redo the bevels. Stick with a 45 degree angle for this kind of use.

BTW, Knives can be 20-30 degree bevels depending on how coarse the work is you are expecting to do, and razors are generally in the 15-20 degree bevel range for shaving. Knives should be use to cut with the grain, while axes, adze, and chisels are used to cut across the grain. Splitting mawls, are used on stumps to split shingles, and sections ouf using the grain of the wood to aid in parting off pieces. They are not used, like an axe, to cut across grain. :hmm:

 

[Blizzard of '93]

Get'cha a sharp coarse file to start with, finish with a fine tooth file then a med. grit stone. Just my .02.

 

[fatboy]

I would go with what blizzard said and stay away from the grinder, they didnt have no high speed finger chewers like that ele grinder back in the day

 

[Bountyhunter]

Bench grinder is likely to overheat and blue the edge and then its up for retempering.

I use either a file or belt sander which runs slower and doesnt heat as much. My belt sander has a portion of slack belt that can be used to put a convex edge on tools making the edge stronger and last longer.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Ditto for me too on the belt sander, able to keep blade cool and put a great edge on it.

 

[Many Klatch]

A file is best as the others have said. A little patience and you will have a good edge. The degree of sharpening depends on what you want your hawk for. If you are only going to use it to throw at a hawk block, you will want it sharp enough to stick in a fresh cut oak block, that will take a really sharp edge. If you are going to use it for a camp axe, then you want to sharpen it to a more useable angle.

If you are just going to play handles with it, then it really doesn't matter what kind of edge it has.

Many Klatch

 

[crockett]

Files are the standard tool. You have two issues, the bevel and the edge. The thinner the bevel the deeper it will cut but the edge may turn or deform. Most hawks and axes have too blunt an edge to start so you may want to file it back a bit, maybe 5/8" flat back from the edge on a hawk and 3/4" for an axe. You can then finish with a stone at a slightly more blunt angle to put on a really sharp edge although that amount of work generally isn't needed.
Don't use power tools, they overheat the metal and destroy the temper unless you work very slow and keep cooling the edge in water.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Comes down to what quality steel and blade your edged weapon is made of.

My 1750s repop was hand forged and lap welded.
It was well bladed when i got it.

After turning the bevel down to 23 degrees and using stones to hone it. It is nasty sharp, and has held its edge for a few years now.

Anything that heats up your edge is bad for it.

 

[crockett]

Actually, I didn't want to overdo it but I took one of my hawks and filed it down to a knife edge just to see the results. I has good steal. 23 degrees or less. This is NOT a wood chopping tool, it would be used for combat. Really wicked. I read years ago that a soldier with a bayonette attacking a man with a hawk would have to use some caution because the hawk could catch the end of the musket and control it. The man with the hawk could then grab the musket with his free hand and still have the hawk available.

 

[Steve A.]

Thanks again everyone :hatsoff: I did some filing on it last weekend. It's not looking too bad so far. I'm not sure what kind of steel it is. I could probly look it up,but it's the 'primative hawk' from TOW. As i said i sure am glad i checked with you all first,before i started grinding away. I wouldn't have even thought about ruining the steel by getting it too hot. I'll probly mostly use it for camp chores/hunting,but i'll probly try to do a little throwing just for fun.

 

[spudnut]

Oh you'll throw it :thumbsup: Once you do it a couple times you'll love it head for a rondyvoo...Mark

 

[Turtle2]

Might be a little late here but definately stay away from the grinder as others have mentioned.
Fellow buckskinner took a hand grinder to a real nice hawk and in a matter of about a minute ruined it. We joked that he could use it to maybe slice cheese.
Hand file and then I like to finish with a pumiss (sp?) stone with buck honing oil. The stone I'm refering to is about 4" round, 1" think and have a coarse and fine side. Available at hardware store.
Finish with the fine side and your ready to go...I mean throw.

-Turtle-

 

[paulvallandigham]

The stone you are probably describing is usually made of Carborundum, a man made material. But it can work well in keep the edge of an axe true, and sharp, if you know how to use it. Rest the stone on a solid surface, and use both hands on the axe to control your angles. A throwing axe can best work with a 20-30 degree approach bevel, made by using a draw file, and then using a 45 degree angle on that stone, or a good arkansas stone, fine, to created what is called a " supported edge ". The fine stone work will remove the feather or " burr " left by filing the two sides of the blade to make that approach bevel. But in sharpening that second bevel at 45 degrees, another much smaller burr, or feather, will be created. Use a belt, or strip of leather glued to a board to strop that feather off the edge before using the axe on anything. This three-stage process is fully described in The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening, and in literature written by Roger Needham, a long time supplier of arkansas stones to NMLRA members at Friendship. Roger's stand is just inside the gate on the West side of the drive.

A throwing axe takes a pretty good beating, because their can be any number of things hidden in the wooden backstops, and when you miss, and it hits the ground, their can be rocks, or metal that will ding the edge in a heartbeat. Keep the edge sharp, and a good stone ready to make any repairs, and you will have a hawk that serves you well.

I do not use oil on my stones, but rather use Liquid Wrench or Break Free, both kerosene based oxydizers that help dissolved bits of steel clogging the surface of the stones, facilitating the removal of the clogs with a rag or patch soaked in the solutions and rubbed on the stones in a circular motion, first one direction, and then counter clockwise. If those clogs are not removed, the stone cannot reach down and cut the steel from the edge of your axe to give you a new edge. My fine Arkansas, which I use for making that supported edge bevel, is used dry, and cleaned frequently. Otherwise, those fine bits of steel hang in solution, and dull one side of the edge as I am sharpening the other side of the edge. A sharp axe, like a sharp knife is a precision tool, not to be misused or given to a fool to use. If you ever get to see one of the log rolling rallies where the use of axes are still a fascinating sport, try to get a look at the axes that the competitors use. The edges they put on them just before cutting logs at speed is razor sharp, but also strong enough to take the pounding that is required to remove huge chunks of wood.

 

[chipper]

I have a wet sharpening machine that acts like a grinder with a fine grit stone that's partially emersered in water. You can grind to your hearts content and never heat up the blade. Bring it by, we will work on it. Or you can use a file.

Regards
Loyd shindelbower
Loveland Colorado

 

[reddogge]

Get an old Boy Scout manual. It'll tell you how to do it the right and safe way and one you can repeat in the field if necessary when you don't have access to grinders and sanders.