Pyrodex P

[BP Addict]

I’d been using Pyrodex P (3F equivalent) in cap-locks since the mid-80s. I had read that in addition to lower pressures, it was also cleaner burning than black.

I moved back to Oregon ion 2011. For some reason I just couldn’t get decent groups. I switched to Black powder and accuracy greatly improved. I’ve been using it ever since. I have a local source of BP so am going to stockpile some. At one time I had about 15 pounds stashed away.

I experimented with T-7 for a while but realized it was really designed for in-lines. I couldn’t get the results I was looking for with a side-lock.

Thanks!

Walt

 

[brewer12345]

The title of the thread says "Pyrodex P," which I think the manufacturer intended for handguns. "P" referring to pistols. There is a Pyrodex RS intended for rifles and shotguns. I have shot a little of each, in revolvers and rifles, respectively, but didn't try "mixing and matching." After some limited trials, I found I preferred black powder overall, and I haven't done anything with Pyrodex of either granulation in quite a while.

It may be worth looking into, though, while black powder is hard to get. I also bought a can or bottle or jar of Alliant Black MZ a year or so ago, because the price was attractive and shipping issues were less onerous than with black powder, but I haven't even broken the seal on the container yet. I have no idea how it compares.

I don't know if the P versus RS designation would really make any difference. Maybe those who have tried both in the same gun could advise us. It would be great to find an objective comparison of the two Pyrodexes (Pyrodices?), Black MZ, and black powder in the same gun with the same ball and patch combination. Maybe somebody has already done it.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob

I have tried pyrodex rs, real black, and black mz in the same gun. Pyrodex has ballistics about the same as real black. Somewhat harder to ignite, a little less fouling, very corrosive. Black mz has less velocity than the same measure of real black, much less fouling, less corrosive. Black mz likes compression to perform the best, and is somewhat harder to ignite than real black. Haven't tried triple 7, but hear good things.

 

[johnfrommd]

I titled the thread pyrodex P because I am shooting 3f goex blackpowder in my rifles and pistols.

Yup P = FFF and RS = RS.

 

[boker]

Picked up a little of each to test

 

[johnfrommd]

Just make sure you follow the volume reduction rules on T7. Also, T7 tends to make a hard crud ring when you are shooting alot. You have to pay attention so you don't accidentally seat the ball on the crud ring leaving air space in the chamber.

 

[CaptainKirk]

I don't know if the P versus RS designation would really make any difference. Maybe those who have tried both in the same gun could advise us. It would be great to find an objective comparison of the two Pyrodexes (Pyrodices?), Black MZ, and black powder in the same gun with the same ball and patch combination. Maybe somebody has already done it.

I have tried both P (pistol) and RS (rifle/shotgun) in the same rifle (Lyman Trade Rifle, .50 cal), same patch and ball combo. I noticed no difference in accuracy from the bench. There was a slight perceived difference in recoil and muzzle flash (more with the P), but not much. Could have been my imagination as well.
FWIW, Hodgdon says you can use either P or RS in muzzleloaders up to 50 cal but they recommend RS for 50 and above.
I've shot both out of my Lyman Plains pistol and prefer the P out of that one (.50 cal)

 

[CaptainKirk]

Don't know if it's been mentioned, but one of the advantages to Pyrodex is that it's "non-progressive fouling", which means your barrel doesn't get fouled worse with every shot until you are forced to clean it at the range by running a patch or bore brush down the barrel. I've shot easily 50+ shots out of my Trade Rifle without the need to clean until I got home. Something to think about.

 

[FlinterNick]

I use triple 7, I find it to be just as good as GOEX.

 

[smoothshooter]

Clean it up well and soon after shooting and you’ll be fine.

How does the “P” version work in rifles?

 

[Idaho Ron]

I use Pyrodex P in all my rifles. If you feel inclined to see how well my rifles like P search my name.

 

[Erwan]

Almost off-topic or off-topic:

Yup P = FFF and RS = RS.

I have obtained a can of Pdex Select (rare in France, but the BP become also rare here), do you know the approximate equivalent of the index (Fg) in real black powder?

 

[CaptainKirk]

Almost off-topic or off-topic:



I have obtained a can of Pdex Select (rare in France, but the BP become also rare here), do you know the approximate equivalent of the index (Fg) in real black powder?

Select is RS (2F)

 

[Eutycus]

If a person is that lax on cleaning no product will be satisfactory. Never had a problem with Pyrodex.

 

[wb78963]

The title of the thread says "Pyrodex P," which I think the manufacturer intended for handguns. "P" referring to pistols. There is a Pyrodex RS intended for rifles and shotguns. I have shot a little of each, in revolvers and rifles, respectively, but didn't try "mixing and matching." After some limited trials, I found I preferred black powder overall, and I haven't done anything with Pyrodex of either granulation in quite a while.

It may be worth looking into, though, while black powder is hard to get. I also bought a can or bottle or jar of Alliant Black MZ a year or so ago, because the price was attractive and shipping issues were less onerous than with black powder, but I haven't even broken the seal on the container yet. I have no idea how it compares.

I don't know if the P versus RS designation would really make any difference. Maybe those who have tried both in the same gun could advise us. It would be great to find an objective comparison of the two Pyrodexes (Pyrodices?), Black MZ, and black powder in the same gun with the same ball and patch combination. Maybe somebody has already done it.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob

BMZ is a little "hotter" that real black and does NOT like to be compressed. I use some from time to time and the fouling is consecutive not cumulative. That is you are pretty much one shot dirty and is is compatible with smokessomewhatless lubricants. Clean like you would for real black Gunpowder and you will like it. Not good in flintlocks. because it is a bit harder to ignite.
Bunk

 

[Frontier's]

Just make sure you follow the volume reduction rules on T7. Also, T7 tends to make a hard crud ring when you are shooting alot. You have to pay attention so you don't accidentally seat the ball on the crud ring leaving air space in the chamber.

Crud ring is with 209 primers.

 

[Okie Hog]

BMZ is a little "hotter" that real black and does NOT like to be compressed.

Been shooting Black MZ in rifles since it's inception. This 50 yard five shot group was fired from my .54 Navy Arms Hawken with a tight fitting patched round ball seated very hard on the powder.

 

[Erwan]

Select is RS (2F)

Thks CaptainKirk .