Question about knapping flint edge in the jaws of the ****

[toot]

I view tapping or using the heel of the frizzen as a field expedient. It works for a few shots but it is more chipping than flaking. Sharpening this way results in blunt edge profile that doesn't last very long. If repeated often enough the striking edge can become nearly round. On the other hand, pressure flaking done correctly removes tiny thin flakes precisely where they are needed and can maintain the original > striking edge and prolong the flints usable life. This is because the applied pressure is directed more inward than downward. Pressure flaking tools can be made from either antler or copper. Steel doesn't get a grip or bite on the flint and doesn't work as well

thank you so much for the video you provided. will a ground deer antler also work as well? it is indeed so simple. I have deer antlers no elk , or moose?

 

[Grenadier1758]

Yes, deer antler will work.

 

[Griz44Mag]

I use a brass wedge key with a small notch filed into one side.
You don't beat on a flint or the lock or sear. Gentle taps will flake the edge - in a matter of 60 seconds or less, you can have a nice new sharp eadge.
Knapping this way is a LOT less stressful on the lock than a firing cycle, knap in the half **** position, and NEVER on a loaded gun.
NOTE - the brass or antler (bone) knapping tools will not create sparks, those who use a notched steel nail or a steel knife blade could cause a spark.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Most steel nails are not hardened and will not spark. I have never drawn a spark from my knapping awl made from a 16d nail. I flattened the tip and filed a notch.

 

[Griz44Mag]

Most steel nails are not hardened and will not spark. I have never drawn a spark from my knapping awl made from a 16d nail. I flattened the tip and filed a notch.

Most knife blades are hardened steel, and I have created MANY sparks with nails from air powered guns shooting into aggregate concrete. 48 years in the construction industry have taught me that sparks are possible with nails. Rare? Yes. Impossible - No
If the person that uses a nail blocks the flame channel with a toothpick or quill, then it is not an issue.
And I fully anticipated that someone wanting to defend his use of a nail would claim such.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Hardened nails being driven into aggregate concrete, there will be sparks aplenty. Sometimes a spark can be drawn from the hardened face of a hammer when nailing to be sure. I appreciate your reminder to block the touch hole when knapping. That's good advice to remind us to take the proper care.

 

[flntlokr]

I hold the **** back and out of sear contact and with my index finger under the flint edge. I tap with a tiny copper hammer and a row of flakes collects on the finger and verifies the flint is sharpened.

Me too. It supports the flint so very little of the energy is sent down to the tumbler/sear. I also use a light tool; just enough weight to do the job.

 

[Griz44Mag]

Hardened nails being driven into aggregate concrete, there will be sparks aplenty. Sometimes a spark can be drawn from the hardened face of a hammer when nailing to be sure. I appreciate your reminder to block the touch hole when knapping. That's good advice to remind us to take the proper care.

My original experience with knapping in the jaws resulted in a tiny little flint chip lodging in the flash hole. It took some doing to get that little sucker out of the hole so it would shoot again.
Since the hole is only 1-16" - it takes very little to block it off......

 

[Woody Morgan]

My original experience with knapping in the jaws resulted in a tiny little flint chip lodging in the flash hole. It took some doing to get that little sucker out of the hole so it would shoot again.
Since the hole is only 1-16" - it takes very little to block it off......

I think that may fall under the "shizz happens" clause.

wm

 

[toot]

Yes, deer antler will work.

thank you for the reply.

 

[toot]

My original experience with knapping in the jaws resulted in a tiny little flint chip lodging in the flash hole. It took some doing to get that little sucker out of the hole so it would shoot again.
Since the hole is only 1-16" - it takes very little to block it off......

that is why you hold your finger in the pan when you knap a flint.

 

[beardedhorse]

Your deer antlers will work fine for pressure flaking. I have a brass hammer with flint tools on a ring for knapping. Copper rod good for flaking. I plug touch hole and support bottom of flint with one hand or finger. Those using lapidary cut agates can use diamond hones to touch up rounded edges or take to a diamond wheel. Since I knap arrowheads it is easier for me to just change to a fresh flint, especially in a match or hunt where the next shot needs to go off.

 

[Howard Pippin]

Though I also attempt to sharpen the Flint when it's in the jaws, Especially on a no fire when shooting at the range, I discovered I could take several of my old flints, placing them securely in a piece of heavy leather, mounting them in the jaws of my vise, and it was quite easy to re-sharpen several of them. It seems like whenever I did it when the flints were mounted never were as good as what I could do with the Flint removed.
Squint