Question on pinned barrel

[hunter thompson]

HOW do you effectivly clean a barrel(flint) when you dont have wedge pins and the barrel is pinned on...guns with wedge pins is all ive been shooting for years.Thanks

 

[necchi]

Cap or Flint lock?
That submersed breach/plunge flushing method sure is handy, but there are lot's of methods,
Share with us what you have now.
Edit;
Oop's, sorry, should have looked at the forum section

 

[hunter thompson]

Cap or Flint lock?
That submersed breach/plunge flushing method sure is handy, but there are lot's of methods,
Share with us what you have now.

flintlock thats brand new but the barrel is pinned on..it is a custom gun with beautiful maple stock ..hate to get it wet..but i dont want to pull those tiny pins and align everything after either..whats the deal..?dump down the barrel?

 

[koauke]

I put a patch over the flash hole and then stick a toothpick through it and just use wet patches and swab the barrel until they come out clean. I don't think its the most efficient way, but it works and water doesn't get on the stock. Then I run dry patches and oil.

 

[martin9]

I always do it like this. 1 pass with a bore brush wet with Hoppes. Then patches on a jag til they come out clean. Then an oily patch, then another dry patch. I then use a soft bristle brush with hoppes on it and scrub the lock/touch hole area. then use a set of picks and a tiny brush to pick out any small deposits stuck inside the cone of the touchhole. Lastly I spray the gun with barricade and wipe it down with a soft rag.

Water would do just as well as hoppes for blackpowder fouling. I think I just like the smell of hoppes:>)

 

[ghostdncr]

I disassemble mine for cleaning, but I don't think that's the norm. Just how I saw someone else do it back in the day when I was first getting into muzzleloading and it stuck.

 

[Juniata]

Here's my method a guy taught me. Takes me about 10 minutes. (Flintlock)

Take lock off.

Toothpick in touch hole, wrap a strip of t shirt or fabric around wrist (in case water seeps past toothpick when gun is standing, that way it doesn't get a stain from a streak of fouled water running down over the buttstock)

Place a small funnel in end of bore, pour a small amount of warm water in bore.

Stand it up, let it sit while you clean your lock.
I'll skip how I clean the lock since that's not your question. Your question is how to clean a pinned barrel without pulling...

After lock is clean, (2 minutes later) grab gun put your finger over muzzle and flip back and forth to get that water rolling around.

Dump it out. Add water a 2nd or 3rd time, just dump it right back out that 2nd and 3rd time.

Pull toothpick, (Keep that flash hole facing away from any thing you don't want sprayed with minor fouling, like your shins! Ha

Now run dry patch alternated with patches that are wet or sprayed with simple green till no more fouling.

Then I run a patch with WD40, down, then a dry patch.
I use that oiled patch to wipe the outside of the barrel down just because....
Put lock back on and you're doone

 

[French Colonial]

Here's my method a guy taught me. Takes me about 10 minutes. (Flintlock)

Take lock off.

Toothpick in touch hole, wrap a strip of t shirt or fabric around wrist (in case water seeps past toothpick when gun is standing, that way it doesn't get a stain from a streak of fouled water running down over the buttstock)

Place a small funnel in end of bore, pour a small amount of warm water in bore.

Stand it up, let it sit while you clean your lock.
I'll skip how I clean the lock since that's not your question. Your question is how to clean a pinned barrel without pulling...

After lock is clean, (2 minutes later) grab gun put your finger over muzzle and flip back and forth to get that water rolling around.

Dump it out. Add water a 2nd or 3rd time, just dump it right back out that 2nd and 3rd time.

Pull toothpick, (Keep that flash hole facing away from any thing you don't want sprayed with minor fouling, like your shins! Ha

Now run dry patch alternated with patches that are wet or sprayed with simple green till no more fouling.

Then I run a patch with WD40, down, then a dry patch.
I use that oiled patch to wipe the outside of the barrel down just because....
Put lock back on and you're doone

This is the exact method I have been using for years, Only difference is the simple green. when the patches come out clean do one or two WD-40 patches then a Ballistol and your done. Works great perfectly clean and shiny.

I have some rifles I have never pulled the barrel out of after 30 years, others I have had out multiple times (Octagon to round with a soldered on front sight that I keep shooting myself in the foot and having to put new sights on it).

So if you do need to pull the barrel its really not that big of a deal and if the pins are very slightly rounded on the ends it will not catch on the wood and they will go out and back in with just some light taps.

I started using the bamboo toothpicks from Amazon to plug the vent last spring, they are very tough and you can tap them in to the vent (GENTLY!) they won't break and do not leak a drop.

 

[oldwood]

You're worried about a few drops of water on your stock ,when the damage to your stock from removing and replacing the pins , just to clean the barrel , would do severe damage to the stock??? There are a bunch of ways to clean a barrel besides punching the pins from the wood . Don't remove the pins. Step 1.....Remove the lock for cleaning. 2.....Plug touch hole w/ tooth pick ,and w/funnel , pour hot tap water in barrel , at least half full. 3........Clean lock w/ tooth brush under warm tap water , and dry the internals and outer surface of lock. Lubricate the lock bearing points . 4.....Like Juniata says above , put finger over muzzle and slosh dirty water in barrel back and forth a time or two , and dump out. 5.............Bronze wire brush is optional , or a little steel wool on a loose patch is ok. Spray a little WD 40 on cleaning patch so it doesn't stick in the bore . Run a couple dry patches down until relatively clean and dry. 6........Reassemble the gun w/o over tightening the lock mounting screws. 7.......Wax the outside of the gun w/ Minwax Special Dark Furniture Wax...........Done. Do this and yourgun will take care of you for years to come............oldwood

 

[Art Caputo]

My process for all my flintlocks(pinned and slotted), used for decades, takes10-15 minutes…no harm to wood or steel.
Remove the lock
Plug the flash hole
Pour a few ounces of MAP(70%IPA, 3%Peroxide, Murphys-6:6:4) down the barrel: let sit 5 minutes, inverting the barrel 2x with thumb over the bore.
Clean lock and breach while waiting
Pour out MAP, Wipe/dry
Lube with a water displacing Lube(ie.WD40, Ballistol, Barricade)

 

[Notchy Bob]

You've gotten lots of suggestions for cleaning with the barrel in place. However, you can remove a pinned barrel, and it's probably a good idea to do so now and then.

Remove the lock. Remove the ramrod. Remove the tang screw. Use a properly sized pin punch and a wood, plastic, or rawhide mallet and gently tap the barrel pins out. My dad told me many years ago that the old-time standard practice for pins was "in from the right, out from the left," although the wedges on original Hawken rifles were opposite of this, pins are not generally tapered so it should not matter, and who knows what builders are doing now. Just be consistent.

Don't drive the pins all the way out, just far enough to clear the barrel tenons. Be very careful in lifting out the barrel, so you don't bend the tang.

You can then clean the barrel by the breech immersion method. I think it's a good idea to coat the underside of the barrel with a surface protectant which is waterproof and will not evaporate before you replace the barrel in the stock. I use a very thin film of white lithium grease. Replace the barrel and get all of the pins started before you drive any of them home. Once you are satisfied the barrel is in place and the pins are going correctly, tap them the rest of the way in.

There are really two critical points to keep in mind when removing a pinned barrel. Don't let the punch slip off the pin when you are getting it started, and don't bend the tang when you lift out the barrel.

You don't need to remove the barrel every time you clean it, but it's a good idea to be comfortable with taking it out when the need arises.

Good luck with it!

Notchy Bob

 

[Juniata]

This is the exact method I have been using for years, Only difference is the simple green. when the patches come out clean do one or two WD-40 patches then a Ballistol and your done. Works great perfectly clean and shiny.

I have some rifles I have never pulled the barrel out of after 30 years, others I have had out multiple times (Octagon to round with a soldered on front sight that I keep shooting myself in the foot and having to put new sights on it).

So if you do need to pull the barrel its really not that big of a deal and if the pins are very slightly rounded on the ends it will not catch on the wood and they will go out and back in with just some light taps.

I started using the bamboo toothpicks from Amazon to plug the vent last spring, they are very tough and you can tap them in to the vent (GENTLY!) they won't break and do not leak a drop.

That's cool, I'll look for bamboo toothpicks

 

[Grimord]

I now use a magnetic flush tube attached to the touch hole. Works just like the flush tubes made for cap locks. I just take an old sock and stuff it into the lock cavity while pumping a jag and patch thru the bore just in case there is a leak.

 

[Nameless Hunter]

My process for all my flintlocks(pinned and slotted), used for decades, takes10-15 minutes…no harm to wood or steel.
Remove the lock
Plug the flash hole
Pour a few ounces of MAP(70%IPA, 3%Peroxide, Murphys-6:6:4) down the barrel: let sit 5 minutes, inverting the barrel 2x with thumb over the bore.
Clean lock and breach while waiting
Pour out MAP, Wipe/dry
Lube with a water displacing Lube(ie.WD40, Ballistol, Barricade)

When I saw IPA, the 1st thought that came to mind was beer.

 

[Grenadier1758]

As others have said, first plug the touch hole. You can use a toothpick or a rare earth magnet with some electrical tape as a gasket. Do wrap the lock mortise with an old towel to catch any water. Pour some water in the barrel. let it set for a while and pour the water out. do this several times until the water pours clean. You will still have embedded fouling that has to be wiped out using a damp patch on your jag. Unplug the touch hole. The towel will catch any water. Once the fouling has been removed, proceed with the dry patches, alcohol patches (or WD40) to displace any remaining water. Brush the touch hole. Oils with a rust inhibiting lubricant. Install the lock.

The magnetic flush tube works too.
THE LUCKY BAG

 

[Steve Martin]

Notchy Bob said it all really as to removing a pinned barrel and everyone else have given you several good methods to clean the gun. All I would add is that I unpin and remove the barrel on my muskets and rifles about twice a year to be sure the stock and underside of barrel look ok. I clean and then wax the barrel (and barrel inlet area of the stock) and re-assemble - it's NOT hard and it's NOT going to damage the gun IF you are careful when removing and re-installing the pins. I have never had any problem doing it this way so don't be afraid to do this BUT pay attention to which pin came out of which hole so you re-assembly the barrel correctly and not damage the stock.

 

[Brokennock]

I've done the plug the flash hole and fill with water, let soak, dump, repeat, then swab with patches, routine for years.
One flintlock gun gives me no trouble with the flash hole plug leaking, the other gun has always leaked no matter what I have plugged it with. Oddly, it is the gun with the smaller hole, in a vent liner, that leaks. The gun with a significantly larger hole, drilled directly through the barrel wall never leaks.

Now I use one of those magnet mounted brass fittings with a flush tube from Dave Crisalli that others have mentioned. I highly recommend it.

 

[Bergmann]

HOW do you effectivly clean a barrel(flint) when you dont have wedge pins and the barrel is pinned on...guns with wedge pins is all ive been shooting for years.Thanks

Rarely do I need to remove a barrel from the stock to clean it! It's just not necessary and actually increases wear and risk of damage to the stock! There are flush adapters for both flint and percussion - some folks like then! On either type I plug the vent/nipple with a toothpick, pour a tablespoon or 2 (depending on caliber) of cleaning solution (I use Track of the Wolf's brand) or water down the bore and scrub the bore using a nylon bristle brush! I let the barrel sit for a few minutes and empty the contents! Follow with dry patches until they come out reasonably dry and then proceed to the standard wet/dry patch until the bore is clean. Doesn't take long after you get the heavy crud out of the bore.

 

[Zutt-man]

1/16” pin punch is pretty cheap off of Amazon

 

[nchawkeye]

Too much to go wrong with removing the barrel on a long rifle, I just plug with toothpick, pour water down the barrel and pour out most of the residue...I then run a couple of patches, pour in a bit more water, pour out then dry and lubricate...