Questions about my Hawken shoot

[Tankerchief]

Today I took my recently purchase TC .50 Hawken out for a shoot. I used 80 grains of 2F Schuetzen powder, .490 TC ball, .015 pre-lubed patch, and CCI primer.

Although I am pretty happy with how the rifle shot; I do have a few questions.

1. Adjusting sights. I fired 5 shots at 50 yards from a rest and the rounds impacted about 2-3 inches low. I turned the elevation screw 5 clicks; fired 5 more shots; but impact seems to be same spot; with exception of of one shot high and to the right. How much adjustment does a TC sight give? It might be my point of aim changed (it was raining and my eyes ain't what they used to be) but if not how many clicks should I expect to use to move the impact.

2. First few primers looked perfect and popped right off the nipple. However, about shot 4 or 5 the primers started being crushed/fragmented and stuck inside the hammer. Is this something I need to be concerned about?

3. Picture 3 are two of the patches that I was able to recover. They appear a little burned to me. I did see a flaming patch in front of the barrel on one shot. Again, new to this some asking if this is anything I need to worry about.

Was a good first shoot; but making sure I don't need to make adjustments with what I am doing.

Thanks in advance.

 

[2 shots]

have you checked to see if the sight is actually moving with adjustment? who knows what someone could have done to it. just an idea. 5 clicks should have put you high at 50 yards i believe.

 

[Tankerchief]

have you checked to see if the sight is actually moving with adjustment? who knows what someone could have done to it. just an idea. 5 clicks should have put you high at 50 yards i believe.

My thoughts too. The manual I down loaded doesn't talk about sight adjustment. and, the rain and wind ruined the desire to try another adjustment. Maybe next weekend.

 

[chorizo]

You should be able to push down and compress the sight and have it move back up to ensure free movement. You might also check if the spring is missing or properly seated in the sight.

 

[SDSmlf]

I fired 5 shots at 50 yards from a rest and the rounds impacted about 2-3 inches low. I turned the elevation screw 5 clicks; fired 5 more shots; but impact seems to be same spot; with exception of of one shot high and to the right. How much adjustment does a TC sight give? It might be my point of aim changed (it was raining and my eyes ain't what they used to be) but if not how many clicks should I expect to use to move the impact.

I have found many T/Cs to have around minute or one inch of of adjustment at 100 yards with OEM sights. Would expect 5 clicks on a factory sight to move the POI around 2-1/2” at 50 yards. Something you will have to confirm.

 

[Don Steele]

Congratulations on your new rifle, and entry into this fascinating hobby. I'll post a few thoughts:
1.) Sight adjustment has been well addressed already. You just need to shoot more to confirm what's been posted.
2.) Having spent Caps hang up in a TC isn't unusual. I've seen enough of them do that in one fellow's rifle that he started getting FTF's ( failure to fire), specifically, failure to ignite a cap. Had to dig'em out and clean that pocket in the hammer out to get him back in business. I believe that thorough cleaning of that area to prevent the buildup of residues that give the spent caps something to "stick to" will resolve the issue.
3.) Those two patches look awful. My recommendation is that you get away from pre-lubed patches. Buy un-lubed patches and apply a known good lube ( there's only about a million to choose from.....) just prior to shooting. Some pre-lubed patches are great. Some...because you never know how long they have been held in someone's inventory someplace...don't work worth a darn and you never know which one's you're getting. I employ a particular lube to make up the strips of "Dry Patch" material that I use in the most demanding matches, those when I'm shooting off a rest or "Chunk" and you have to have a "One-hole group" to even think about being competitive. Shoots like a Laser...but if I grab some off my shelf that have some "age" on'em...they shred on shooting.
If you're still reading...allow me to add a comment that in my Experience...your 80 grain load is right in the range of a good hunting load for Deer and Hogs, etc. That 50 cal rifle will be a lot more enjoyable at the range with a powder charge down in the 55-65 gn level, and you'll still get outstanding groups once you find out what your rifle likes best in powder, patch and lube.
ENJOY...!!!!

 

[deermanok]

Your group looks pretty good.
Are you using the 6 o'clock hold or aiming for the center of the target?
Patches definitely look burnt.
Different patches and lube. Try a different aim point.
Bring some Qtips with you to the range. They work great for swabbing out the crud build-up in the hammer cup.

 

[dave951]

On the patches, guys, he's using 2f Scheutzen. I'd say they're probably fine. Personally, I wouldn't get too worried about the patches if your rifle is shooting well. I have one that leaves patches looking like dirty lint but it'll shoot as well as a new one.

 

[renegadehunter]

Check that the spring under the rear sight is there and not broken or bound up somehow. Like the others said, you should be able to push down on it and have it return back to where the adjustment allows it to raise up to. It is also possible that someone changed the front sight and it is taller than the original.

On the caps getting stuck in the hammer cup, are you using CCI "magnum" caps? I avoid them just for this reason. I do not see it near as often with "regular" CCI #11 caps. I'd say the regular caps get stuck about 10% of the time, the magnums it is about 90% of the time for me.

Patches do look a bit burnt, but if shooting well and no holes they are doing their job. They look like pre-lubed store bought patches, beware of those. They can sometimes sit around too long and the lube starts breaking down the fibers of the patch. One package may shoot great, the next package may result in patches that shred/tear and show terrible groups. It is much more reliable to buy unlubed patches and then lube them yourself a few days before you go shooting. There are a multitude of lube options. I really like Track of the Wolf's Mink oil. Very stable across a wide temp range.

 

[Notchy Bob]

Issues with the sights have been addressed by others.

I would agree with @Don Steele about lowering your powder charge for punching paper. You just don't need that much energy behind the ball for shooting at the range. It will be more fun to shoot with a lower charge, and you'll get more shots per pound of powder. One fellow on the forum recently reported killing a deer with a .50 caliber pistol, shooting 35 grains. That would be too light for your rifle, but it illustrates the point that you don't necessarily always need a magnum charge.

Patches get dirty. That's not abnormal. However, if they are smoldering, I would suggest loading a lubricated felt wad between the powder and the patched ball. Melt a tin of your favorite lube, preferably with a double boiler of some sort, and drop in the dry felt wads one at a time. They will soak up the lube immediately. Lift them out with tweezers or needle-nosed pliers and lay them on waxed paper. I lube my patches the same way.

If you don't have felt wads, you can ram down a wadded-up lubricated patch before you load your patched ball.

I would also agree with getting away from pre-lubed patches. As noted, you have a lot of options. I like tallow. Mutton tallow has been hard to get lately. I bought some locally-produced beef tallow at a nearby farmer's market, and I recently rendered about a pound of buffalo tallow from suet bought from a buffalo rancher. A lot of the guys here like mink oil. I have some, but never got around to trying it. You can lube your own patches the same way as the felt wads are done.

Enjoy your new rifle!

Notchy Bob

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

.015" patches are kinda thick I think. Try some .010 patches and see if you get better results. Try Bore Butter as a patch lube... or maybe olive oil. I generally try to stay at or below 50 grains of powder with any PRB... most I will go is 57 grains. I can hit a soda can at fifty yards with my T/C Hawken. I am not a precision shooter, but I wouldn't worry too much about what the patches look like.

I have also experienced the sights "not moving", but mostly found it was me flinching.

 

[Grenadier1758]

On item 2, should you be concerned about the caps getting stuck in the nose of the hammer or on the cone. You should be aware that this will happen as the fouling of shooting accumulates on the cone and in the hammer cup. That cap debris should be removed. A quick glance will show the captured cap and a pick can quickly remove them. A quick wipe from a patch cleans the cone and hammer cup.

Item 3: Being dirty isn't much of an issue. Your patch is capturing fouling as it should. Concerns will be in the form of cuts from a sharp crown or tears from rubbing on sharp lands. I don't see that. With the shallow rifling, 0.015" thick patching will be a tight load and that's necessary to engage the ball in the rifling. No compelling need to change patching other than to change from prelubricated patches to lubrication just before loading.

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

I haven't had any real issues with patches that are not as thick as what I am "supposed" to use, but I am not really a precision shooter. If I can hit a gallon jug at fifty to seventy-five yards, I am happy. 7 to 10 thouandth patches with a .490 round ball for a .50 caliber loads easily and does what I require of it.

 

[hanshi]

Those patches do appear to be burned. You need to buy your own patch material and cut them out with scissors. I believe thicker patches are needed for the rifle. Using sandpaper and your thumb polish the crown so entry into the muzzle is smooth; 30 minutes is all it will take. Lube with TOTW mink oil or Hoppes BP Lube or spit but stay away from "bore butters". Patches of .018" or larger will hold up better. The cut some patches sustain happen when the prb is started into the muzzle. Buy pure cotton material and carry your caliper so you can measure the material prior to leaving the store. I get excellent results with a .490" & .024" canvas patches; the fired patches are clean and can be used again.

 

[Togo]

Your on the right track with patch and ball, if you don't mind spending a little more buy a jug of Triple 7 3f, I use all 3f, I have several TC's and for some reason they perform really well with 777. Your sight should have a spring, with your thumb on the sight and turning the screw counter clock you should feel the sight rising. Spent caps collecting under the hammer is normal, I carry a knife just to clear it each time.