Questions, questions

[dobletroble]

Hey guys, nice to find this forum.

I decided that I want to take advantage of ML season this Fall and looked into rifles. The inlines just didn't seem right (no offense to anyone, I can see good accuracy and range advantages to them, I just want to take advantage of an excuse to tramp through NC forests with a traditional flint lock), and I wasn't really wowed by more traditional available from Cabela's, et al.

So I decided to build one from parts. I purchased a Tennessee flint lock rifle kit in .45 from Track of the Wolf. I've built a few sporters from Turkish Mausers and so I'm confident that I'm up to it.

So now with the questions:

1) The looooong barrel has arrived. The finish is pretty rough - is this traditional or should I polish it?

2) The stock (that I was hoping to get started on first) and large Siler lock are backordered. Does anyone have an idea what type of wait I can expect?

TIA

DT

 

I've built a few rifles from kits and the "rough finish" is traditional in that they usually come that way from the retailer....not in that they are finished that way! I draw filed the flats first then used wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a file, so as to keep the barrel flats crisp, for the final finish. I was always of the opinion that the barrel should be mirror bright before browning. There are fellas on this board who build some works of art and no doubt they'll chime in. Listen to what they say. The above practice always worked fine for me but those guys have vastly more experience than I. These guys are great and will help you in any way they can.

Vic

Vic

 

[tg]

I draw file the barrel down and polish somewhat if I am leaving in the white then age a bit with mustard, bleach, or naval jelly one could leave shiney if a brand new gun effect was desired, when browning a barrel and I only do this with a gun of a time period this was done. I do not polish as much as I think the browning takes better on a less polished surface, a highly polished barrel will resist rust better than a rough one...and browning solution as well. It is a matter of choice, if you do not like the end result just strip it down and start again.

 

[Stumpkiller]

There seems to be a general lock shortage in the country - and that's good for that the interest is theret but bad for individuals. I was told the "Early Germanic" Jim Chambers had a 600 lock backlog from Track OTW back in February. I called around and found one eventually from another supply house. If the large Siler is backed up that far too, I'm afraid you could be waiting many months. Thay come out of the same Jim Chambers shop.

 

[Zonie]

Doble Troble:
The barrel should be draw filed to remove the rough factory finish. I usually draw file the 5 surfaces which will show and leave the lower three with the factory finish. Of course if your having a lot of fun draw filing, or waiting for your lock, you might want to do the last three flats as well.
I would sand it down to the 220 grit level if I were going to brown it. Don't polish it because polishing will close the microscopic pores which help the browning solution do its thing.

IMO, if you plan on using this for hunting you will be happier with a browned barrel. They are not glossy so they will be less likely to spook game. Browning will also reduce the number of questions from your friends like "Why didn't you finish it?"

As for your lock, if you know for certain the stock was inletted for a Large Siler lock, you might try looking at our Links Forum for sources under Gun Parts.
A source who doesn't have a web site is Vernon C. Davis & Co. in Dublin, Ohio. Their phone number is 1-614-761-2568
Of course ordering from someone other than TOW is only a good idea if TOW is willing to cancel out that part of your order.

Could I ask a favor of you? When you start actually building, if you have any questions, comments, photos etc, would you post them over in the Builders Bench Forum area. We are trying to keep all of the questions/answers to specific building questions there for everyones convenience.

As long as the questions are general in nature, this forum area is fine.

 

[Birddog6]

If I ordered a Kit & they backordered the Lock & the Stock ? I would box it all up & send it back & order a kit from someone else. that is :bull: It they didn't have the Major parts they should not have taken the order. A few small parts is one thing but you have basically nothing to work with. TOW is getting really bad about backorders & if I order from them at all now, I have them check stock before I place it. You can get a stock for a TN rifle just about at any large ML parts supplier. As for the lock, if it is a Chambers you won't get it for a long time as they are still 600-800 behind. I just started a Lancaster for a guy and we waited 2 months on a barrel & a lock from TOW & finally the customer cancelled the backorders & I went by Tips & picked up what else I needed. I am not wasting any more time with TOW & neither are allot of other builders. They are falling in line with Dixie......great book & no inventory....

Try Tip Curtis Frontier Shop 615-654-4445 or Log Cabin or MBS and get what you need. In fact, all three places should have ALL you want to build the rifle. I buy allot of parts from Tip and 99% of the time he has every part I need for any rifle I build. He has a very Extensive supply of parts.
Since it is a TN rifle & should be browned, I would lightly draw file the 5 showing flats & that would be adequate for browning. No polishing is required, in fact, if they come polished I rough them up so they brown better.

I suggest you get ALL the parts before you do ANY work on it in case you have to return it. First thing I would do is call them back & find out the delivery.

Custom Muzzleloaders & Custom Skinning Knives

 

[TwoShadows]

Doble, You is being told right....I betcha a call to Tip Curtis will reveal that he has all you want IN STOCK and be mailed to ya right quick. I have been to most all the muzzleloading shops over the years....and find that Tip has more inventory than any 2 others.

 

[Stumpkiller]

LOL. Vernon C. Davis told me to call Tip Curtis. He's the one who had just the lock I needed. I though it was a top-secret type favor. Frontier are good people to deal with. They had what I needed when most other places were dry.

Just got word from LC Rice minutes ago that my barrel is in the schedule. Woo Hoo!

 

[tusti]

You should file the flats on the barrel pretty smooth and finish up with a few different grits of emery to get a smooth finish. Some guys get to this point then bead blast the barrel. They claim this way, it can take the browning better and easier.
I've gotten all of my stuff from TOW and found them very knowledgeable and easy to deal with.
Hopes this helps.

 

[Birddog6]

I drawfile mine & bead blast them before I brown them. It opens all the pores & lets the solution work very well. Before I got the beadblaster, I would drawfile it & then use a 120 grit emerycloth & that was adequate for browning for me.

 

[riarcher]

1) Rough is typical in a kit. I'll bring down to a 600 silica paper with water. Then a bit more with silica #600 and rubbing alchohol just befor browning. Many want a sharp edge on the corners. I like the "rounded a bit" look and feel more myself. Sharp edges (to me) look crude and fall victem to drops, dings, wear much more than a slightly rounded edge.

2) Stock is about the last thing to finish, but the first thing to fit to. After the stock, I'd recommend fitting the barrel, tang, pins or keys. Then comes the lock. Hard to tell where the lock will really want to be without the barrel mounted.

My (non profesional) method, for purchase and fitting is something like;
Stock - barrel-Pins-lock-trigger-guard-butt-plate nosecap/thimbles-(finish) stock.
Stock is only a mediam to hold other parts in their relative positions (including shoulder, forehand and head position).

That's the way I think of it and it helps me keep things in perspective when bumping into decision making areas.

Just my $0.02
Gary

 

[Zonie]

Sorry: I didn't notice that you didn't get the stock OR the lock.
Although it's a pain to send the barrel and whatever other trivial parts they sent back to them I would be sorely tempted to do just that. :curse: :curse:

 

[dobletroble]

Thank you all very much for your helpful comments. I'll get to work draw filing that bbl. I am set-up for blasting so I'll following the filing with a bead finish.

I've emailed TOW and they say the parts should ship first part of June. I'm trying to find-out if the stock or lock can be substituted with something in-stock - hopefully they'll answer this question on try two.

Thanks again!