Last time I drilled out to a larger diameter hole I used a steel rod from the hardware store and filed a D shape on the end...It scrape along and got the job done for that one with a few sharpening along the way. But I have the need to do a couple more blanks which is not suited for that soft steel. The 3/8" size from track is on back order, which means they don't have a clue when they might get them. Precision in metal working is not my forte. I remember the drawing of the scalloped blade but I cannot get my head rapped around how I would go about producing that or how that even cuts. I can get a o1 rod from grainger the right size but not sure how I would fix a cutting edge that would go straight any ideas (pics)? Does an auger bit drill straighter than a jobber bit? Does anyone have a good photo of the cutting end of one they fashioned?
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Ram Rod Drill?
- Thread starter Swamp Rat
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Both my RR drills are made from unhardened drill rod. A hole was drilled into the end in a lathe and a drill's shank was turned down and pressed into the hole. High temp silver solder filled in the chamfers and filed smooth.
The drills have a flat bottom "point" which cuts something like an end mill and doesn't stray because of grain or differences in hardness.
I no longer drill the RR hole but send it out for that work along w/ the bbl inletting.....Fred
The drills have a flat bottom "point" which cuts something like an end mill and doesn't stray because of grain or differences in hardness.
I no longer drill the RR hole but send it out for that work along w/ the bbl inletting.....Fred
Capt. Jas.
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Try Stonewall Creek Outfitters
The flat bottom "point" I grind on my RR drills is not a brad point. It's just a plain flat bottom because it's so easy to sharpen, while a brad point isn't.
When I first started building, had to decide what type of drill "point" would overcome inconsistent grain, curl and varying hardnesses of wood. Settled on a flat bottom.
Later on visited Fred Miller who drilled 1000s of RR holes and saw that his drill points were also flat bottoms.....Fred
When I first started building, had to decide what type of drill "point" would overcome inconsistent grain, curl and varying hardnesses of wood. Settled on a flat bottom.
Later on visited Fred Miller who drilled 1000s of RR holes and saw that his drill points were also flat bottoms.....Fred
I'm not too knowledgeable on drill points and it is an important issue as a rr hole off center can screw up an expensive piece of wood. So far I've drilled only one and went super slow and kept cleaning out the hole, etc. fortunately it was right on the money but I sure would like to know if one type bit tends to drill straight.
Instead of the hole and metal lathe- I've wondered if a slot in the long rod and a filed down bit shank might work- pinned together. Sort of like an NDN arrowhead.
When starting with a blank plank, I've thought about leaving extra wood on all dimensions and drilling the hole FIRST and then shape the stock to the hole- if such was doable.
Instead of the hole and metal lathe- I've wondered if a slot in the long rod and a filed down bit shank might work- pinned together. Sort of like an NDN arrowhead.
When starting with a blank plank, I've thought about leaving extra wood on all dimensions and drilling the hole FIRST and then shape the stock to the hole- if such was doable.
matt denison
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Muzzleloader Builder's Supply has them. I have one, it works good. $20.00 plus shipping last time I bought one.
Onojutta
45 Cal.
I used that RR drill from TOW to drill my very first RR hole, and it ended up dead on, did not wonder at all. There was probably a little bit of luck involved, but my experience has been that it bores a very straight hole. The only thing I noticed with it was that it did ride up about 1/32 high when starting the hole. I thought this may have been because it doesn't have a tapered or augered tip, to make the initial bite right on contact. So just something to be aware of if you never used one before, just make sure it starts out right where it should.
It obviously doesn't excavate the chips to the rear like a spiral tip, so you have to pull it out quite often to clear the cuttings.
If you can't wait for it, as kaintuck said it looks like it would be very easy to copy if you have a local machine shop nearby, they could probably do that for you.
It obviously doesn't excavate the chips to the rear like a spiral tip, so you have to pull it out quite often to clear the cuttings.
If you can't wait for it, as kaintuck said it looks like it would be very easy to copy if you have a local machine shop nearby, they could probably do that for you.
If I did not already buy some drill rod I would have ordered the $31 drill from Building supply, I've looked on their site before but never saw the drills.
With my tool available, Think I will just make a D bit on one end and a single slot on the other and see what works best.
The pics on TOW is hard to tell what they actually were but saw some metal bits on grainger that looks like them. should be easy to do with a cutting wheel.
Thanks for the info.
With my tool available, Think I will just make a D bit on one end and a single slot on the other and see what works best.
The pics on TOW is hard to tell what they actually were but saw some metal bits on grainger that looks like them. should be easy to do with a cutting wheel.
Thanks for the info.
don hepler
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I have made drills, out of drill rod. I ground the sides much like a regular flat blade screwdriver, then ground an angle like a drill bit which is 118 degrees, then ground a relief angle which looks like an end mill. Now, I have never drilled a ram rod hole in a gun stock....so before I tried such an endeavor, I would want to drill into some practice wood. The problem is getting the chips relieved. I would imagine it would take very short amounts, backing out of the hole and blowing out the chips.
Again...I have used homemade drills, but not for ram rod holes, so I would proceed with caution.
Again...I have used homemade drills, but not for ram rod holes, so I would proceed with caution.
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I just weld a drill bit to the end of a steel rod. I haven't had any problems and can make many different lengths and sizes as I might need.
When welding I chuck both pieces into the lathe to make sure everything is strait.
When welding I chuck both pieces into the lathe to make sure everything is strait.
Gustavo Hoefs
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Why not harden and temper the end of the drill rod after shaping ?
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I had a guy at the local auto body shop clamp a bit to a bit of angle iron to keep everything straight, and then he spot welded the end of the drill bit to the end of a rod (both rod and bit are 3/16") and once we ground everything smooth, it worked very well ... now that I own a Drill Doctor, I might try to flatten the angle a bit: I am given to understand that a flatter angle, or a spade point or brad point, will wander much less than a standard point.
good luck with your project - and tell us how things turned out
good luck with your project - and tell us how things turned out
