Ram rod puller??

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Parzifal

45 Cal.
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
522
Reaction score
1
Does such a devise exist??

I keep getting mine gummed up after 10-15 shots ,I can wrench out the steel ones but I have broken wooden ramrods on my dragoon 5 times amd it is frustrating as hell.

So is there some sort of lever devise that I can use?? "Besides pliers or my hands"

Thanks
Rob
 
You can get one from Track of the Wolf or October Country. These grip the ramrod and you can pull the ramrod out. You can also use a long leather thong. I tie a pipe hitch to the rod and to a sturdy post. This works too.

I have also learned that its best to accept the fact that black powder will create fouling and wiping the fouling away between shots is the best approach for firing long sessions at the target range.
 
bessbattlesystem said:
Does such a devise exist??

I keep getting mine gummed up after 10-15 shots ,I can wrench out the steel ones but I have broken wooden ramrods on my dragoon 5 times amd it is frustrating as hell.

So is there some sort of lever devise that I can use?? "Besides pliers or my hands"

Thanks
Rob
I keep a T-handle handy...allows not only a positive grip, but it enables you to even hook the "T" onto an overhead rafter, tree limb, etc to give more leverage (ensure you have a solid ramrod or that the ends are at least pinned).

But, IMO, that should not be happening that often...it happend to me a couple times when I was just starting out years ago and haven't jammed a ramrod in 15 years now I guess...so possibly reviewing / tweaking your procedures could help PREVENT it from happening in the first place.

For example, if you mean it's getting stuck when trying to wipe the bore...you might start wiping the bore after every couple shots instead of waiting as long as 15 shots when there's a lot more fouling.

And/Or, try using cleaning patches that are "wetter"...dry or somewhat dry patches are notorious for jamming in a fouled bore;

Also, if it happens again, try pouring a teaspoon of extra cleaning solution (even water) downbore to get the existing patch wetter so it'll get softer and stand a better chance of sliding out.

Even double chek the jag you're using...ie: verify that it's the correct diameter...could have been mislabeld when you bought it and might be too large/tight.
 
I have had to turn a couple of jags down to make them smaller. You can use a lathe or a drill press. All 58 cal. barrels are not all .58 cal. a couple of thousands will make a big differance. I can't remember the last time I had one stuck.

p.s. carry a peice of leather lace, make 2 half hitches over the rod and you have something to grab on to.
 
With my TC Hawkin, the stock ramrod is fine for loading, but wiping an unloaded barrel leaves very little rod extended for gripping. I use a piece of deer antler (actually the handle of my turn screw) with a .50 hole drilled in the middle. THis fits over the rod and when canted provides a quick T-handle.
Listen to Roundball :bow: . If your rod attachments are not pinned, you may be in for a world of hurt.

Good luck
bramble
 
i made my ball starter i had into one with a extra ball puller i had :v ..............bob

465206.jpg


465205.jpg
 
If you carry a piece of leather lacing( latigo leather) and dampen it, it will grip the wood ramrod with three turns around the rod enough to allow you to pull the rod out.

I have to agree that you should consider doing two things: 1. reduce the diameter of the cleaning jag by filing it while it spins in a lathe, or drill press, or even a hand drill held fast in a vise. The most forward band should be a few thousands smaller than the band that is at the rear. The one in the middle should be in between in diameter. It takes only a few strokes with a fine file to get this done. Use a micrometer or caliper to guide you doing this work.

2. Clean the barrel between shots. You can use a bore brush to both break crud free, and also to push a cleaning patch down the barrel and out again for cleaning. You are much less likely to stick a bore brush in the barrel than a cleaning jag and patch. I use the cleaning jag when I am cleaning the barrel After my shooting is done. I use it because I can better feel if there are any spots in the barrel that still have crud stuck on them, and the jag also allows me to feel the barrel when I am running a lubed patch down it to protect it from rusting. I will even close my eyes so my brain is forced to concentrate on the feelings coming through my fingertips from that rod as I move it down and back up the bore. You can't open the back end of a muzzle loader to see the bore, like a modern back stuffer gun, so use your fingertips to do your looking. They can feel things even your eyes will miss.
 
Dixie has one.
RA0711 RAMROD PULLER $25.95

But more importantly, maybe you should ask yourself why do you need one when so many others don't? Granted, everyone gets a stuck ball once in a while, but your post implies something unusual. You are swabbing out the bore between shots aren't you?
 
This is what I came up with, I forged it out of an old chunk of spring stock and hardened it so you can use the sides for a flint striker, if your wiping stick gets stuck you just insert the wiping stick in the hole on the striker, lever it up, and pull out the wiping stick, simple. Oh the end is a turn key too.
Jeff
strikerpuller.jpg
 
Instead of a jag and cloth patch, perhaps a worm and tow would work? Never had a problem with that combination. Course, I can't say I ever had a need to load 15 rounds without wiping,
 
Thanks all..

I really think dropping py phosphur bronze brush down between every 2 shots or so would be better then my usual practise.The whole ounce of prevention vs/pound of cure.
I appreciate the advise.

Rob
 
without going on and on about what's available {there's lots} you wouldn't by any chance have a pair of spark plug boot pliers would you?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top