Ram rod wont go all the in....im stumped!

[waksupi]

The ramrod hole on mine hadn't been drilled at all; back to Kibler it went.

Same here, you would think the kits would be a bit better inspected before they leave the shop.

If yours is not drilled, don't try to do it yourself. Send it back to Jim to be done. If you bugger the job at home, don't expect a free replacement!!

 

[user 34300]

The hole in the stock is tapered. The rod needs to be tapered to match. IT is normal and expected. IT is part of the build and covered in the instructions.

Jim Kibler has answered this question many times. He prefers that build questions be handled by Kibler Long rifles, not internet forums.

 

[Siringo]

As another post, make certain the rear barrel tenon in not protruding into the Ram road channel. That’s part of the procedure of finishing the
Kit.

 

[sturmkatze]

I’d say, ask @James Kibler

 

[Appowner]

I’d say, ask @James Kibler

I did, a few months ago. As have many others. But yeah, none of us can remember the advice from one day to the next. Must be why we shoot black powder. Loading more than one round at a time simply confuses us to no end.

 

[Cruzatte]

I think I goofed. I assembled entire rifle....then I fit ram rod end on,pinned,countersunk, peened pin tip and sanded well. I should have it it before final assembly.
I'm going to remove local, and lock side plate, and make double sure lock bolts are where they belong
I remember Jim making a point of this...
Otherwise, ramrod is straight, nicely sanded and fits thru thimbles and entry pipe


Goes into stock about 5 1/2" and just stops....as it seems to be hitting something. Weird!

Five and a half inches...that's about where the pin on the first thimble is on my rifle. Could you have interference from a pin blocking the ramrod channel?

 

[bptactical]

Hmmm! Looks like my last colonoscopy!

Splinters? You and Pinnoccio close?

 

[BadDaditood]

I did the same as Krewson, but I didn’t have a borescope then. Took a little head scratching but eventually I stumbled onto it- the rear pin tenon needed filing.
I also acquired several sizes of 4 foot drills to clean out chips and dust and check depth.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

How is the hole in the stock tapered? I've drilled quite a few ramrod holes and I don't know how you'd get one tapered. And if you could, why?

 

[FlinterNick]

Putting finishing touches on my Kibler colonial. I may have goofed because I completed rifle, instead of assembling and fitting ram rod. The rod has been thoroughly sanded and fits through thimbles and entry pipe, but seems to be hitting something about 5 1/2" before it should be home.
I've marked rod where it hits bottom of barrel...used a smaller rod to guage depth it should go, but for the lfe of me, I just can not figure it out!!
I certainly hope I don't have to disassemble rifle again! It came out quite well....all tight and well fit....
Thanks for any thoughts guys...

It could be a couple of things.

As someone mentioned the lock bolt, however Jim’s stocks are CNC cut, that would be an odd issue for one of his kits.

it could be the entry pipe is installed incorrectly causing the rod to bend all of the rammer pipes should be in alignment with one another and the rammer channel,

perhaps the rammer end tip’s pin is not filed flush.

Its possible the rear under lug is too long, if this were the case the lug mortise would be showing through the rammer channel or creating a type of swell into the channel, measure the distance of the lug to the rod, and if that’s where the tension is that’s possible the issue.

Ramrod ends are typically tapered for a snug fit, it’s possible the rod end is too fat.

I would test the rammer hole with some smaller wooden dowels and work your way to the diameter of the rod, if its getting tighter as you go lower, then something is in the stock, it’s possible there’s a wood chip from the drilling or milling. If it gets tighter as you go higher with the dowels then the rod needs to be tapered.

 

[French Colonial]

It could be a couple of things.

As someone mentioned the lock bolt, however Jim’s stocks are CNC cut, that would be an odd issue for one of his kits.

it could be the entry pipe is installed incorrectly causing the rod to bend all of the rammer pipes should be in alignment with one another and the rammer channel,

perhaps the rammer end tip’s pin is not filed flush.

Its possible the rear under lug is too long, if this were the case the lug mortise would be showing through the rammer channel or creating a type of swell into the channel, measure the distance of the lug to the rod, and if that’s where the tension is that’s possible the issue.

Ramrod ends are typically tapered for a snug fit, it’s possible the rod end is too fat.

I would test the rammer hole with some smaller wooden dowels and work your way to the diameter of the rod, if its getting tighter as you go lower, then something is in the stock, it’s possible there’s a wood chip from the drilling or milling. If it gets tighter as you go higher with the dowels then the rod needs to be tapered.

You make to much sense, it has to something else like he is using the wrong lube.

 

[FlinterNick]

You make to much sense, it has to something else like he is using the wrong lube.

Lube ?

 

[FlinterNick]

I’d say, ask @James Kibler

This is probably the best answer

 

[FlinterNick]

I have run into several problems with ramrod fit on other guns and had this one on my Kibler SMR, I left the forestock underlug too long and it stopped the ramrod tip. Gotta' love a good borescope for finding some problems.

View attachment 291317

If this were an early french military gun, that would be a great place to pin a rammer spoon !

 

[French Colonial]

Lube ?

Yes, My poor attempt at humor.

 

[2 shots]

How is the hole in the stock tapered? I've drilled quite a few ramrod holes and I don't know how you'd get one tapered. And if you could, why?

tapered drill bit. dont know why.

 

[Wirehair]

I had a slightly different problem. My ramrod was sanded to fit the Kibler SMR, so I stained and finished the ramrod. Several weeks later I couldn't remove the ramrod from the rifle (ramrod hole swelled due to humidity). After eventually extracting the ramrod, I carefully re-drilled the ramrod hole. The drill fit the hole perfectly and no wood was removed (if the hole is tapered, it isn't much). Tried the ramrod again-no change. Last resort (before sanding/refinishing the ramrod) was to insert a bronze brush on a cleaning rod and, using a drill, "cleaned" the hole. That worked.

 

[FlinterNick]

tapered drill bit. dont know why.

Never seen a tapered rammer drill that long.

 

[Appowner]

Splinters? You and Pinnoccio close?

Better than what they found 12 years ago. When the tumor appeared on the screen even I knew that wasn't the way things should look.

 

[Bnewberry]

tapered drill bit. dont know why.

Maybe to allow for a slimmer profile under the lock?