Ramrod choice question

[Supercracker]

I have 2 original mid 19th century shotguns that both have the original rods. So that can't be as consumable as people seems to think.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have 2 original mid 19th century shotguns that both have the original rods. So that can't be as consumable as people seems to think.

Yes, but keep in mind shotguns don't require the shove effort a patched ball in a rifle does. And, I'm quite sure, we use a much tighter ball/patch/bore combo than was common 'back then'. The safety issue simply cannot be ignored. Paul's post reminded me, that even with 40+ years of experience doing this ml madness, I have the bad habit of reaching high and trying to shove the ball down in a single stroke. I teach properly but, by (bad-bad) habit do wrongly. For my own safety I use non-breakable Delrin rods almost exclusively.

 

[ebiggs1]

PS: Guys..... Don't just glue those RR tips on.... You WILL be sorry....
Epory & Pin the RR tips on.

I pin all my wooden ran rods even the store bought ones. But I rarely ever use them. I use a range rod with a bore protector on it. But the gun's wooden ram rod is all I take hunting so they do get limited use once in a while.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Yes, but keep in mind shotguns don't require the shove effort a patched ball in a rifle does. And, I'm quite sure, we use a much tighter ball/patch/bore combo than was common 'back then'. The safety issue simply cannot be ignored. Paul's post reminded me, that even with 40+ years of experience doing this ml madness, I have the bad habit of reaching high and trying to shove the ball down in a single stroke.

You're right! We should create a forum or something that will instruct folks in the proper use of muzzleloaders. Don't use an insanely tight fitting patch & ball to begin with, and choke up on the rod when setting the ball and pushing it down. I use my ramrod to start the ball when I load from the bag. No wonder folks go through wood rammers if they push more than 12" down at a time.

 

[Black Hand]

I lament the death of common sense every day.....

 

[Supercracker]

I have 2 original mid 19th century shotguns that both have the original rods. So that can't be as consumable as people seems to think.

Yes, but keep in mind shotguns don't require the shove effort a patched ball in a rifle does. And, I'm quite sure, we use a much tighter ball/patch/bore combo than was common 'back then'. The safety issue simply cannot be ignored. Paul's post reminded me, that even with 40+ years of experience doing this ml madness, I have the bad habit of reaching high and trying to shove the ball down in a single stroke. I teach properly but, by (bad-bad) habit do wrongly. For my own safety I use non-breakable Delrin rods almost exclusively.

That's true.

 

[Robert Egler]

No wonder folks go through wood rammers if they push more than 12" down at a time.

Just for the record, both the wood ramrods I've broken broke while pulling a load, never from ramming one down. A bit of accidental pressure to the side and the rods broke where they touched the muzzle. Still my fault.

 

[floyd1350]

the rod shown is ash not hickory. suitable for baseball bats, tool and broom handles and such but not for ramrods. they use them 'cause they are prettier than hickory.

 

[paulvallandigham]

The way I learned to pull Wooden ramrods out safely, when the resistance is cause by a stuck ball or jag, or brush, is to grab the end of the rod sticking out by WRAPPING a Piece of LEATHER thong( strap), at least 3 times around the stick, an then have a loop on the end to fit your hand. Wetting the leather thong/strap will help it grab the wood stick better, too.

I saw this demonstrated once, at the club, when two men used a piece of boot lace- made of latigo leather(But any leather strap will do), wrapped around the 3-4" end of a hickory rod that was sticking out of the barrel. The rod had gotten " Stuck" with a cleaning patch. They poured some cleaning fluid down the barrel to soften the fabric patch. Then one held the gun, while the second man held that loop and PULLED. The rod slowly came out, but it was fighting them all the way. In fact, with the rod out about 1/3, the man pulling on the loop stopped, and re wrapped the leather down closer to the muzzle, then repeated the exercise. The rod came out, but resisted all the way.

He used a factory LOADING jag, one of the belled brass versions that come with the rod, to attempt to clean the barrel. He should have bought and used a separate CLEANING Jag on his rod, or used a separate RANGE ROD for that purpose. A loading jag is only intended to be used to push a PRB or bullet down the barrel- not clean it.

My first trip to Friendship after buying my first gun saw me buy a Stainless Steel Range Rod, plus appropriate sized cleaning jags, brushes, patch puller,& ball puller. All have threads in 10/32 Pitch. I still have and use those original patch and ball pullers- altho very rarely, and usually on someone else's gun!

I have always intended to buy one of those tools that looks like a nutcracker, used to grab and pull hickory rods out when they are stuck. Cast of brass, the tool consists of two handles hinged together. Each handle is "J" shaped, and the two short parts face each other. The inside curves are shaped like a rain gutter, and the ramrod is fitted between the two parts. When the handles are pulled, the ramrod is squeezed between the two curved surfaces(jaws), and the harder you pull, the tighter the rod is squeezed.

Sold as a " Ramrod Puller" by "Track of the Wolf".
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartList.aspx?catID=1&subID=19&styleID=1065

My gun club bought one to keep at the club, for use by members. Someone epoxied some strips of suede leather inside those gutters, to provide a softer Grab on the wood, so no damage was done to the ends of the hickory rods by the tool. I think Dixie GW still sells them, but I have never found one at their booth at Friendship. With that tool, you can pull most any rod, including those made of metal( which was the actual reason for the suede "boots" being glued on the tool's jaws)!

Others think ahead, and fit and pin a brass ferrule to the other end of the Hickory rods. The ferrule is threaded for a 10/32 screws as well. They either make, or buy a "T-handle" with a 10/32 pitch screw in the middle to attach to that ferrule, and use that T-handle to pull the rods out, safely. (Think of a short-starter with a T-handle instead of a ball.)

I watched another club member take his gun over to a tree, put the handle through a crotch in the tree, then pulled the stock of his gun to pull out the ramrod. The gun was not loaded, no cap on the nipple, hammer down, and gun safely pointed away from himself.

 

[Dphar]

OK so I broke the ramrod that was with my rifle. The wood one. I have a brass one I can use but I want another to actually fit in the rod holder on the rifle.

So I got some hickory rods from a mail order place and did one up. The first ram it broke in 3 pieces :rotf:

Well the way I had to order I got 5 of them so I took the tip off the broken one, put it on an intact one and sanded it down to where it will fit.

I haven't got a chance to check it out yet since I just fabricated it yesterday.

But my question is with these rods that were probably turned on a lathe or something I'm wondering if I might get better strength by just going out into my woods, selecting and barking a suitable sized hickory sapling or limb, letting it dry out and then putting a new tip on and whittling and sanding to size?

Also any suggestions of other woods that might be more suitable? I have numerous species and 85 acres of woods.

If you order 12 rods you might get 2-4 that are good enough to use. The grain has to be STRAIGHT.
I have a rod in a 54 that is now near 30 years old and has been used a lot.

If you can get straight hickory get one big enough to split into quarters then slit these down the about 1" of so. Paint the ends with paint or wood glue and let it dry about 6 months to a year.
Now work down to a ramrod.
In the end its lot cheaper to buy a dozen then sort for straight grain.
You also have to be careful to not flex the rod excessively when loading.
Dan

 

[Rifleman1776]

Also any suggestions of other woods that might be more suitable?

I started another thread on just that subject.

 

[Hollowdweller]

Thanks again and I'll check out that other thread. Also thanks for the technique idea there