Wooden rammers were cheaper.
Ramrod ends - Steel or Wood?
- Thread starter Toneloc
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The steel ramrod tips are not hardened and won't draw a spark. They are harder than brass. I do have iron tips on my Hawken. I have never been concerned with drawing a spark. Try getting sparks usinf a flint and soft steel. Brass will tarnish to become very dark and being softer than steel and won't cause excessive wear.
That said, what would look right on an SMR. An all wood rod with the end grooved for a tow wad would be right. I would have a threaded brass tip on the hidden end so I could use jags for cleaning or to hold a ball puller.
That said, what would look right on an SMR. An all wood rod with the end grooved for a tow wad would be right. I would have a threaded brass tip on the hidden end so I could use jags for cleaning or to hold a ball puller.
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If steel on steel will spark, we would probably be shooting steel-locks and not flintlocks. Wouldn't that be convenient? Surely someone would have figured that out before they figured out caps 
My guns get a tapered tip on the ramrod hole end (always iron) for attaching whatnots, and bare wood on the ramming end. I usually carve a couple grooves in the wood ramming end that acts as a jag for a quick swipe with a patch when needed. Works for me.
I can't see how you're going to scratch the bore with a tapered iron tip when it doesn't even touch.
I almost always use the "onboard ramrod" for pretty much everything. Closest thing I have to a range rod is a little-bit-too-long spare ramrod for each gun that I may use for cleaning. They are all hickory, and I have never broken one.
I'd use a wet noodle before I used fiberglass.
You do you. Wood and steel worked for hunnerts of years and I reckon I'm simple enough for it to work for me.
My guns get a tapered tip on the ramrod hole end (always iron) for attaching whatnots, and bare wood on the ramming end. I usually carve a couple grooves in the wood ramming end that acts as a jag for a quick swipe with a patch when needed. Works for me.
I can't see how you're going to scratch the bore with a tapered iron tip when it doesn't even touch.
I almost always use the "onboard ramrod" for pretty much everything. Closest thing I have to a range rod is a little-bit-too-long spare ramrod for each gun that I may use for cleaning. They are all hickory, and I have never broken one.
I'd use a wet noodle before I used fiberglass.
You do you. Wood and steel worked for hunnerts of years and I reckon I'm simple enough for it to work for me.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
63 posts on choice of ram rod end. 
I have to use a threaded metal tip, brass or steel. If you need to pull a charge out in the field, you gonna need it!
I always carry worm and ball puller with every trek into the woods
I always carry worm and ball puller with every trek into the woods
63 posts on choice of ram rod end.
Cool huh!
Haha did you read the one about some dude shoving his steel ramrod so hard the sparks blew the thing up like a grenade heehee... or something like that63 posts on choice of ram rod end.
... I'm beginning to love this forum!
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Yeah but what kind of tip on a delrin rod eliminates windage. SeshHaha did you read the one about some dude shoving his steel ramrod so hard the sparks blew the thing up like a grenade heehee... or something like that
Mike in FL
50 Cal.
Me too. I take two rods to the range - one for swinging which is Kibler's. It has the 8/32 threads for attacments. My other rod is for loading sanded down to snuggly fit the caliber. I use a drill bit to make the cup end. The hickory rod never comes out of the thimbles except when hunting.
palonghunter
40 Cal.
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Mine are all brass with a cupped end and 10-32 thread. I bought a solid steel cleaning/range rod so the threads aren’t totally necessary on my ramrod, but it’s still nice to be able to swab in the field if I need to.
Mike in FL
50 Cal.
I prefer 8/32 threads for know other reason other than I relate 10/32 to production rifles. That makes me seem pretentious but I am not. My very favorite flintlock rifle is a Lyman/Pedersoli GPR. Never had a ml that accurate and I surely do admire TC guns. So at best, I'm weird. Anyway, more to the point, I like those flexible rods from TOW. They have those threaded 8/32 on one end and 10/32 on the other, made to the length of many production guns. Very nice rods for an every day working ramrod.
Oh I thought that was for the cannon demonstration? Gesh, people need to get a handle on this foolishness. What if, What if, Maybe, Maybe , Could most likely happen, I heard my uncles, cousins, brothers, nephews, nice say something about all of this.Haha did you read the one about some dude shoving his steel ramrod so hard the sparks blew the thing up like a grenade heehee... or something like that
I guess I better be scared down to my britches when I load any of my Colt's because those rammers are steel on steel. I bet it might just cause a catastrophic explosion. Lord give me patience.
Crimony people.
Wood broke, which is why military guns went to steel rammers.
Exactly. It wasn’t for cost.
In the history of my unit, our unit went from wooden rammers on our King's Muskets to iron rammers. Steel was difficult to make as large scale steel production methods weren't available. The iron rammers were soft and easily bent, making them practically useless. Back to wood until steel production improved and steel rammers replaced the wood about half way through the Seven Years War (F&I).
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