Ramrod inlet

[Zutt-man]

Have had some issues with moisture collecting in the inlet of the ramrod channel. It started off with some spilled water during cleaning on a couple occasions, but after a misty hunt this last Saturday, it’s done the same. It ends up swelling to the point where I can’t get the ramrod seated all the way. Takes a couple weeks of drying for the rod to fit again.

Any suggestions on a sealer or application to keep this from happening?

 

[EC121]

Taper the ramrod or sand it smaller. If it is big enough to stick, it is too big.

 

[French Colonial]

And.......

Seal the wood, lots of wood sealers out there, pick one, disassemble the gun, seal the wood (after drying it well) reassemble and not have to deal with it anymore.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Tapering the ramrod is your best option, tapered ramrods are VERY common in today's B/P crowd.

I ran into another similar problem except my problem was a miss-drilled dogleged ramrod hole. I blackened my ramrod with oil lamp soot and shoved it as far as I could down the hole to see where it was sticking, I could see where the soot was worn off of the ramrod by the tight spot.

I used a 5/16" rod, peened a scraper edge on one end, padded the inlet to force the cutter edge into the tight spot and removed the offending wood. My scraper took wood out very quickly, in short order my ramrod slid in and out easily.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I think I misread your post; Is it the groove or the hole that is giving you problems? Sealing the groove is easy, any kind of finish will seal it, I use Tru-oil because it is cheap and easy. I don't know of anyone who seals the inside of a ramrod hole, I guess it could be done but the holes tend to be really raggedly cut, like this Kibler SMR. In this case my ramrod would go in but get stuck coming out, I checked with my borescope and found that the barrel lug was just a little too long and protruded into the ramrod hole, easy fix with a little filing.

 

[waksupi]

After an educational experience while elk hunting, I now take my ramrods down so they will easily go in and out of the channel when wet. I heat them and put in a slight bend to keep them in place in the thimbles. I also treat my ramrods with either automatic transmission fluid, or bear oil, as both completely penetrate the wood, and cuts back on swelling. Some recommend soaking in turpentine or mineral oil, but they evaporate away.

 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Hickory ramrod? I doubt the ram rod channel/hole itself causes your issues. Maple and walnut are much less hydroscopic than hickory is. You cant stop ambient or direct moisture from entering the hickory. But, you can slow it down by using a good urethane sealer. Skip the oil and wax finishes on hickory.

 

[Zutt-man]

I’ve tapered the ramrod, twice, in the past.

 

[Zutt-man]

Hickory ramrod? I doubt the ram rod channel/hole itself causes your issues. Maple and walnut are much less hydroscopic than hickory is. You cant stop ambient or direct moisture from entering the hickory. But, you can slow it down by using a good urethane sealer. Skip the oil and wax finishes on hickory.

It is hickory. The ramrod does not seem to be the issue, though

 

[Zutt-man]

I think I misread your post; Is it the groove or the hole that is giving you problems? Sealing the groove is easy, any kind of finish will seal it, I use Tru-oil because it is cheap and easy. I don't know of anyone who seals the inside of a ramrod hole, I guess it could be done but the holes tend to be really raggedly cut, like this. In this case my ramrod would go in but get stuck coming out, I checked with my borescope and found that the barrel lug was just a little too long and protruded into the ramrod hole, easy fix with a little filing.

View attachment 369403

The ramrod hole is the issue. Maybe I should’ve been more clear.

 

[French Colonial]

Use Eric's method above to remove wood from the inlet and channel.

Also I have had good luck with taking a piece of sandpaper and taping the leading edge to the ramrod, do this by applying the tape to the smooth side of the sandpaper and then folding the sandpaper back on itself so the rough side is out and make a wrap or two around the ramrod.

Now take your drill and attach it to the other end and start very carefully sanding the internal part of the ramrod hole, after using that you can add wraps for more removal.

Go very slow and be aware of any excessive drag, you do not want to build up heat or lose the sandpaper in the hole or you will need to fish it out with a piece of wire with a hook on it.

This has worked for me in the past.