• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Ramrods and Long Guns

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have not tried a ramrod but I have made 3/8” arrows from ½” x ½” square stock.

It is best if it is split so it follows the grain, rather than cut from the log.

Work it down to about ½” x ½” square or whatever size in necessary for your ramrod. Then, it is a matter of working the 4 sides to eight sides by removing corners with a plane or spoke shave; then the eight sides are worked to 16 sides and the rod is sanded round.

It is slow and a bit tedious but arrows have to be more exact than ramrods. However ramrods will see much more abuse, hence the need for straight grain.

I usually purchase my arrows but it is always nice to try to make some so you know how the old timers did it.

Good Luck
 
With any cut plank or board be it green or dried the grain is likley allready compromised for rr's
 
Ditto what Rich says here. Steve Bailey will make them up to 60". He requires a minimum order of 10 rods.
Cruzatte: I have a few straight grain hickory that are 57" long in different diameters. So if you only need one, PM me and let me know what diameter you need. Rick.
 
As one other person responded I make my own arrow and I make my bows out of hickory...I use the excess to make tappered ramrods. I have a 46" barrel in one gun and a 48" in the others....I made both of my ramrods. If you make them from scratch you have the front of the rod a larger diameter(1/2inch) tappering down 3/8s to get thru the thimbles. This works well for me as I do not use a jag but a gun worm to wipe the bore.

Good luck,
David
 
This may not be quick enough for you but right around April and may pruned fruit trees and trees in nature send new growth or "shoots" I have gotten a bunch from a neighbors plum and apple trees, they are fairly straight and knot free, (small pin knots are not a problem) and the ones in nature that get a few years old turn into tall naturally tapered ramrods with grain running from base to tip, I had one I debarked too early and it split in a couple of places so I decided to test flexibility and had to bend the thing dang near in two before it broke!
you dry them for a few months and then debark, heat straighten like arrows, then go to it with a hand plane until you get the right dimensions,
in nature dog wood works great as does any fruit or nut tree, or really any hardwood around will do as long as it grows straight. I have four from last year that are well over 46, I am planning on making two spare rods though I have never broken one, as soon as it warms up in the shop. The ones I have are plum, and one long (60") apple, the apple became my at home cleaning rod
 
you dry them for a few months and then debark

I don't know where you live. But, in most parts of the country, if you don't debark immediately after cutting you are inviting buggies that will eat your wood. Debarking also speeds the drying process. And, when cut the ends should be sealed with a product called Anchorseal or latex paint. BTW, Dogwood is especially prone to getting eaten by buggies during the during process. I do a fair amount of woodworking and use Dogwood. Hard to find long and straight pieces of Dogwood though.
 
I don't know where you live. But, in most parts of the country, if you don't debark immediately after cutting you are inviting buggies that will eat your wood. Debarking also speeds the drying process
Rifleman, I live in Northern Utah the second dryest state in the nation, stuff dries too fast here, but I have not had any trouble with splitting on the ends of saplings I have cut as long as I leave the bark on, and zero problems with wood eating critters, with the saplings the bark is usually thin and there would not be much to munch on. I have had major issues debarking too early and used to make a lot of bows and arrows (native style) every time I debarked before the stuff was totally dry, I would get major splitting. I have never sealed the ends and usually have to cut off a couple of inches where the checking is but only on stuff bigger than 1/2 inch diameter, you are correct about flowering dogwood, I should have been more specific I am referring to Red Osier dogwood, more of shrub than a tree, up in the canyons where the growth is dense we can get some pretty tall straight ones out of the middle of the bunch. I got a few one year long enough for atlatl darts. anyway most of the ones I have now are from plum and apple trees, they are dry with no checking on the ends and no critters.
what about viburnum for ramrods? it makes good arrows I hear.
Cruzatte, you should have red osier dogwood where you are, look near the water, and look for bright red bark.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top