Range Rod length relative to barrel length

[Pratt1861]

I am a new black powder shooter only having experience with a percussion revolver. I have a Lyman GPR percussion .50 cal that I would like to purchase a brass range rod for.

I’m sure my question comes down to a matter of personal preference but since I lack experience, I figured I’d ask anyway.

So for a range rod, is there a customary length or rule of thumb when deciding what length to use?

My Lyman GPR has a 32” barrel and most rods (barring custom lengths) come in 36”, 44”, 48”.

I have a 36 inch dowel rod that I used to see how that would feel and it seems like it would work OK considering a jag will add a couple of inches and a ball or T handle would add a little more overall length.

I also have a 48” hickory rod with a threaded tip I ordered from ToTW along with some other items. I really like the length when I used it for the initial cleaning but it seems ridiculously long and probably too long if/when I encounter a tight ball/patch combo. My thought on ordering the hickory rod was to use it as a wiping rod especially when swabbing the patent breech instead of changing jags all the time.

I’m specifically looking at the Brass T-handle rod from October Country. Does anyone know if the length they specify is with or without the T-handle installed?
http://www.octobercountry.com/brass-ramrod-with-t-handle/

I tend to obsess over details like this so any advice would be appreciated.

 

[jamesthomas]

I use a 48" range rod for all my rifles. I like the extra length because in case of a stuck ball I can reach the over head rafter logs at my range and "hook" the rod on them use the extra length for leverage. On each of my rods I have a "cross bar" made of antler that is pinned to the rod.

 

[nhmoose]

My range rod is 48 inch stainless steel with a brass muzzle protector and straight wood handle that was turned to make grip cuts.

It does not bend or break.

 

[ohio ramrod]

I recommend using the T handle vs the knob since with the T handle you can put your feet over the T and use your leg muscles to pull out stuck cleaning patches or heaven forbid, a dry ball.Thirty six inches will be plenty long enough :idunno:

 

[Zonie]

I would go with the 48" rod.

First off, one should not put their hand over the end of the rod when they are loading.

If, for some odd reason the powder charge ignites when loading (maybe a small burning ember was left behind the last shot?) the last thing would would want is your hand in the way.

Yes, if you were grabbing the shaft, the shot could take some skin, tendon and muscle with it but it wouldn't try to tare apart all of the bones in your hand.

The long rod works nicely at a shooting range (unless your range has a covered loading area) and the longer rod will work better when you get your long Kentucky rifle with the 42" long barrel. :grin:

 

[Don Steele]

This is worth re-posting (emphasis mine). I avoid "Range Rods" with big round balls on the end for precisely the reason Zonie mentions. It's too easy to put your hand over the top of that nice round ball when you ram a load home.
We had a relatively new shooter at our club doing exactly that...his Range Rod had a very nice smooth round wooden ball on the end. When the load in his rifle detonated on loading...we got a very nice round hole through the roof over the loading bench...and he got some severe damage to his fingers as that ball tore through them, just as Zonie postulated. He eventually healed, got the use of his fingers back, and unfortunately stopped shooting muzzleloaders entirely. My Range Rod has a tapered wood handle, which is gripped "down the sides"...not over the top.

I would go with the 48" rod.

First off, one should not put their hand over the end of the rod when they are loading.

If, for some odd reason the powder charge ignites when loading (maybe a small burning ember was left behind the last shot?) the last thing would would want is your hand in the way.

Yes, if you were grabbing the shaft, the shot could take some skin, tendon and muscle with it but it wouldn't try to tare apart all of the bones in your hand.

The long rod works nicely at a shooting range (unless your range has a covered loading area) and the longer rod will work better when you get your long Kentucky rifle with the 42" long barrel. :grin:

 

[Billnpatti]

I have a range rod for almost every one of my rifles. Some range rods will serve for more than one rifle when the rifles are of the same, or nearly the same caliber and have similar barrel lengths. All but two of my rods are brass. One other is aluminum and one is Delrin (I don't recommend Delrin rods because they are too flexable). All of my rods, except the delriun one, are topped with antique brass doorknobs.

I read the comments about the guns going off during loading and I will admit that even though I have never seen it nor experienced it, the concern has merit. For that reason and because a T handle is so darned nice, if I had it to do all over again, I'd go with T handles on all of my rods.

Bottom line, I'd go with either the 36 or a 44 inch rod with a T handle. But, that's just me. :hatsoff:

 

[ZUG]

I make my own range rods for my guns and the rifles I sell. I'll attach either a wood ball or make a aluminum "T" handle for one end along with a nylon muzzle protector. The length of the rod is 2-1/2" longer than the barrel length not including the handle and muzzle protector. No need to have 6 or more inches of excess rod that does nothing but be in the way - my two cents :v .

 

[coloradoclyde]

This is worth re-posting (emphasis mine). I avoid "Range Rods" with big round balls on the end for precisely the reason Zonie mentions. It's too easy to put your hand over the top of that nice round ball when you ram a load home.
We had a relatively new shooter at our club doing exactly that...his Range Rod had a very nice smooth round wooden ball on the end. When the load in his rifle detonated on loading...we got a very nice round hole through the roof over the loading bench...and he got some severe damage to his fingers as that ball tore through them, just as Zonie postulated. He eventually healed, got the use of his fingers back, and unfortunately stopped shooting muzzleloaders entirely. My Range Rod has a tapered wood handle, which is gripped "down the sides"...not over the top.

I would go with the 48" rod.

First off, one should not put their hand over the end of the rod when they are loading.

If, for some odd reason the powder charge ignites when loading (maybe a small burning ember was left behind the last shot?) the last thing would would want is your hand in the way.

Yes, if you were grabbing the shaft, the shot could take some skin, tendon and muscle with it but it wouldn't try to tare apart all of the bones in your hand.

The long rod works nicely at a shooting range (unless your range has a covered loading area) and the longer rod will work better when you get your long Kentucky rifle with the 42" long barrel. :grin:

Detonated??? :shocked2: ....HOW!
I think we are falsely blaming the range rod for the accident and making false connections....
Bp doesn't detonate....And I sure would love to see the accident report..
At any rate....it makes a good case for cleaning between shots and blowing down the barrel... :grin:

What type of gun was it?

 

[coloradoclyde]

Could a charge be ignited the same way that a fire piston works?....by loading a really tight round and having a plugged nipple or vent????

If so this might explain what happened....it also makes a good case for blowing down the barrel.... :hmm:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Could a charge be ignited the same way that a fire piston works?....by loading a really tight round and having a plugged nipple or vent????

That is an interesting question. But, I don't believe it is pertinent to the issue here. Most likely cause of ignition while seating a new load would be a hot ember left behind from previous shots. That is a good reason for swabbing between EVERY shot. Blowing down the barrel is not a good idea. :nono:
As for the main question, unlikely any shooters hands would ever be completely clear of the bore while loading. Meaning safety precautions, like swabbing, should be taken with every shot. For range use I have handles on all my rods. For field use I have removable small grips for some of my rods.

 

[kh0456]

I bought one of October Country's brass range rods in the rifle and one in a pistol length.
I got the ones with the wooden handles so I can't comment on the T handle length. I can say that I love those rods though.
http://www.octobercountry.com/bench-ramrod-with-wood-handle/

 

[diego_m]

I make it a point to always run a lubed patch down the barrel after each shot. If there is an ember left the lube will put it out. Of course this isn't practical while hunting but I believe it's a safe method.

 

[AZbpBurner]

I'm not like Billnpatti (yet) since I don't have a range rod for every rifle & musket (yet), but I'm working on it.

I measure my range rods as length to muzzle + add the length of 2 fists + another inch.

I've never seen the need for a brass, aluminum or stainless rod for blackpowder shooting, since hickory works just fine.

Build a quality rod, and use it properly and you won't have any worries about breaking it.

 

[Pratt1861]

Thank you for all of the replies. I called October Country and asked about the length of their T-handle ramrod and was told the specified length is for the rod only. The T-handle adds about three more inches.

I like the idea of the T-handle option for the added utility in case of a stuck ball or jag.

I’m going to go with the longer rod for a total of 47”. I was doing some mock loading with the different length dowels I have on hand and I feel like a longer rod will provide more leverage while being easier to keep important body parts clear of the muzzle. I can see where a shorter rod with a ”˜convenient’ ball handle could lead to leaning over the muzzle.

Plus, as Zonie said, I’ll be ready if, err when I get a nice 40+ inch barrel flintlock for my next rifle

I plan to swab with alcohol patches between shots. I’m more interested in going slow and overdoing safety while getting used to the process instead of getting off as many shots as possible.

If my personal history is any indication where firearms are concerned, I’m sure I’ll end up with a closet full of ramrods and other odds and ends because I want to try everything”¦

 

[jethro224]

Could a charge be ignited the same way that a fire piston works?....

Yes.

It happened to a good friend of mine. He had just poured powder in his smoothbore when the range was called cold. The range officer told him to just dump the powder out. He tipped his muzzle down and some of the powder came out. Then he ran a moist patch down the bore and let it sit with the brass rod still in the barrel.
After the range was called hot several minutes later my buddy decided to scrub the bore out before reloading. He pumped his brass rod up and down a couple of times and it went BOOM! Lucky for him he did not have his hand over the end. The rod was launched quite a ways straight up and came close to hitting another guy when it landed. Nobody was hurt but everybody was shook up.
Dean said he shot better than ever the rest of that day. Probably because of the adrenaline spike. :haha:

 

[jethro224]

Plus, as Zonie said, I’ll be ready if, err when I get a nice 40+ inch barrel flintlock for my next rifle

Good plan. :thumbsup:
I bought a GPR and the 36 inch range rod.
Then I got a 42" barrel flintlock and had to buy a longer range rod.
Of course now I have a 46" flint smoothbore so I need another even longer range rod... :surrender:

 

[Rifleman1776]

I'm not like Billnpatti (yet) since I don't have a range rod for every rifle & musket (yet), but I'm working on it.

I measure my range rods as length to muzzle + add the length of 2 fists + another inch.

I've never seen the need for a brass, aluminum or stainless rod for blackpowder shooting, since hickory works just fine.

Build a quality rod, and use it properly and you won't have any worries about breaking it.

Yer doin' yer own thang. If it works, that's fine. But a caveat on the hickory. Really good hickory for ram rods are getting to be rare critters. A hickory rod with grain run-out can cause crippling injuries if it breaks. Alone in the woods with a rod run through a wrist artery could just ruin yer whole day. Or worse, feed the forest critters. :shocked2:

 

[vacca rabite]

I preferr to make Delrin "range" rods.

I said that in quotes as the rammer for my GPR, the one I keep in the gun at all times, is one I made from 3/8 delrin rod. No fancy handel. Just a pinned ramrod end on one end with a jag screwed on.

Been using it for years and the hickory rammer just sits on a shelf.

For my nicer (and longer) Lancaster, I bought another delrin rod from Dixons. At $20 it was cheaper then I could have made it for.

Zach