Range Rods

[CraigFl]

I had a friend show me the ropes on how to use my new rifle yesterday, he had a real nice Stainless steel range rod with a barrel protector and nice handle, I forgot to ask him where he got it, he's pretty handy with stuff so he might of made it. Is there anyone who sells them or know of plans on how to make one. Thanks.

 

[Tom Compton]

Had mine so long I don't remember where or when or brand. Will try to get some info. As for making one, If your barrel is 36" or shorter you can get a braze rod from a big time welding shop, drill and tap one end for accessories. Bore guides are available from TOW and others even the modern suppliers. I used an old pool ball (#10) for a handle and pinned it to the rod.

TC

 

[RonT]

TOW for a new one, ~>$30. Or Auto Zone for a 1/4", or 5/16", or 3,8" steel fuel line ~$6, TOW for a barrel protector to fit ~$3, might buy a jag and some other trinket to amortize shipping like I did, and a 8-32 or 10-32 T-nut from the hardware to fit the jag.
Braze or Silver solder the T-nut in one end and grind flange off. Pin an antler stub on the other after cutting to length.
R

 

[MikeChapin]

I have a Treso rod that I have had for over 20 years. I can't remember where I got it but TOW and Log Cabin Shop both have them.

 

[Rat Trapper]

I've got 3 range rods. 2 are Knight rods one for 45 cal and one for 50 cal and a smaller dia rod from Remington. I use the smaller dia rod for my 32 and 36 cal rifles. The two Knight rods are real good as they have a "T" handle which makes it easy to remove a stuck rod. Sorry, but none are PC, but they work great and almost never use the rods attached to my rifle. I loaded one of my 50 cal's last night with my range rod and plan to take to the woods with it today for deer.

 

[Billnpatti]

Any of the muzzleloading supply folks will have them. Look at Track of The Wolf, Dixie Gun Works, TVM, Ye Olde Log Cabbin Shoppe, Muzzleloader Builder's Supply, or any others that you can think of. Range rods are readily available from all of these folks. Many years ago, I bought a range rod that was just a straight piece of brass rod that was drilled and tapped on one end for cleaning jags. There was no handle and that rod end was a killer on my hand if I had a ball that was reluctant to be seated. I went to some antique shops until I found a set of brass doorknobs. I put one on the end of my brass range rod and now I wouldn't take anything for it. A friend of mine has one that he put a white porceline doorknob on. It looks nice.

One thing you want to do to your range rod and any rod that you use to load your rifle is to mark it so you know when the ball is fully seated on the powder. Fully seating the ball on the powder is EXTREMELY important. To do this, load your rifle with the powder charge that you use and the ball that you use and then put your rod down the bore and let it set on the ball. Then mark the rod exactly at the muzzle. If it is a wood rod, you can use a fine line Magic Marker to make a perminant line that will resist fading. You can even give it a little spritz of clear Krylon to seal it if you wish. If you are using a metal rod, what I do is to mark the rod with a fine marker and then take a file and cut a fine mark where the line is. This way, if you have a ball that is hard to get down the bore, you will know when it is seated and not try to fire your rifle with the ball somewhere off the powder. This can damage your rifle and possibly injure you. :shake: :thumbsup:

This is just the opinion of an old fart who has been building and shooting muzzleloaders for over 40 years. Take it for what it's worth. Hell, the advice is free and it's probably over priced at that. :haha:

 

[paulvallandigham]

Treso makes the one I use. Take a look at October Country, or Cains, as well as MidwayUSA, And MidSouth Shooter supplies, along with Track of the Wolf to see what is offered. I believe I bought my SS rod from October Country's booth at Friendship, years ago, but its been so long I no longer remember which vendor sold it to me.

 

[nkbj]

3/8" outside diameter brass tube with 1/8" bore is good to work with. Easy mods done with hack saw, drill, file, solder and tap&die.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I know members here swear by their brass tube range rods, but I am a bit "snake bit" by the fact I had one of those brass cleaning jags, with the threaded shank cut from the same piece of brass. It broke off in the Brass ferrule on a cleaning rod, down in the barrel( OF COURSE! :cursing: ) requiring the barrel's breechplug be removed to get it out. I have not trusted Brass anything for "heavy work" since. Hence my usual recommendation of a Stainless Steel Range rod. My range rod as a shaft that is NO more than .24", and I have used it when necessary on .30 cal. barrels. It works on anything larger, provided I have the correct diameter jag for the larger bores. MY Air Craft Aluminum Alloy Range rod for my fowler has a 3/8" diameter shaft. This allows it to use the larger thread diameter for cleaning jags, and swabs.

 

[redwing]

Paul that is a fact. I will stick with the steel rods. You only need that to happen one time and you will stay away from the brass tubes.

 

[William O.]

In addition to the ML supply stores mentioned, you might want to look at this one; http://www.periodramrod.com/

 

[mazo kid]

Paul that is a fact. I will stick with the steel rods. You only need that to happen one time and you will stay away from the brass tubes.

I am making a brass range rod now and will make a steel insert to fit the end of the rod, soldered/pinned. No, I won't use a jag with brass threads, have picked up a couple of those at the range with the threads broken off. I took them home, drilled and tapped them for steel threads, have been working just fine for over 35 years. Emery

 

[mykeal]

You broke the brass threads on a brass cleaning jag, so you conclude a brass tube is too weak? I'm missing something here.

A steel tube may, or may NOT, be stronger than a brass tube of the same dimensions. It depends on the alloys.

I use a solid brass rod from October Country and have had no problems with it. A solid steel rod would be next choice, followed by a brass tube OR a steel tube. However, I see little differences between them; they all seem to me to be sufficiently strong.

I do not, however, use accessories with brass threads. They will break; I've never broken one with steel threads, however.

 

[BrownBear]

I kinda went the other way on range rods. When I first started using one, it got me all boogered up when I went back out into the field and was loading fast using the ramrod on my rifle. I'm mostly a hunter and field shooter, and with the range rod habit floating around in the back of my brain, it really scrambled me a couple of times on quick reloads in the field. Went off and left my ramrod laying on the ground once, and the other time caught myself ten minutes later still packing the ramrod in my hand while tracking, rather than stowed back on the rifle.

I'm not a range rat and have no problems with folks who are, but for this hunter and field shooter, range rods are for cleaning the gun once I get back home. If problems are going happen with my rifle's rod, I want to see them developing on the range rather than on a hunt, so I do my best to wear out the standard rod right there on the range rather than wait till I try using it on a hunt and discover problems.

Course, I'm rather simple minded and easily confused when asked to change from range habits to field habits. Kinda the same reason I do all my range shooting from the bag hanging over my shoulder, rather than from a range box.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I am not using a steel tube. The SS rod is solid. As to using Brass tubing, someone already mentioned lining the end with a steel core, and then drilling and tapping that core for the jags. That would be the way to go. Far more stress is put on the ends of the rods, when pulling dry balls, or trying to screw a ball-jag into a lead ball than at any other part of the rod. I was not set up with equipment to do this when I was selecting my Range Rod. And, most shooters also are not equipped to do this kind of modification to a brass TUBE RR.

 

[newtewsmoke]

I kinda went the other way on range rods. When I first started using one, it got me all boogered up when I went back out into the field and was loading fast using the ramrod on my rifle. I'm mostly a hunter and field shooter, and with the range rod habit floating around in the back of my brain, it really scrambled me a couple of times on quick reloads in the field. Went off and left my ramrod laying on the ground once, and the other time caught myself ten minutes later still packing the ramrod in my hand while tracking, rather than stowed back on the rifle.

I'm not a range rat and have no problems with folks who are, but for this hunter and field shooter, range rods are for cleaning the gun once I get back home. If problems are going happen with my rifle's rod, I want to see them developing on the range rather than on a hunt, so I do my best to wear out the standard rod right there on the range rather than wait till I try using it on a hunt and discover problems.

Course, I'm rather simple minded and easily confused when asked to change from range habits to field habits. Kinda the same reason I do all my range shooting from the bag hanging over my shoulder, rather than from a range box.

makes sense to me. At least maybe a wooden range rod.

 

[newtewsmoke]

what keeps the bottom end of the ram rod from rubbing and wearing on your barrel? I know on the muzzle there are protectors but it looks like the bottom end can still move freely side to side or however it wants to till the concave hits the ball to center it up.Id think brass, SS, mild steel, wood or whatever could eventually cause wear.

 

[BrownBear]

The tip is going to self-center as it rides on a ball or pushes a patch. Since the jag is smaller than the bore, no sweat.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Use the hand over hand method for running any ramrod down your barrel. The "bottom" hand at the muzzle guides the rod into the barrel to keep the sides from touching, and maximize the efficient of the force pushing the rod down the barrel by the "upper" hand.

The two hands should not be more than 6-8 inches apart during the process.

Clean your hands and the stick after you finish pushing the rod down the barrel.

I also prefer a muzzle protector on my range rod, that helps center the rod as its being pushed into the barrel to seat the PRB down on the powder, or OP Wad.

As to carrying a Range Rod in the field, I slip the tip under the shoulder bag strap, then put the jag under my belt in the middle of my back, and line the rod along my spine. The handle is above my head. No problems unless I am going through woods. Then, I take it out, and Carry it along the length of the barrel in the same hand that carries the gun.

 

[newtewsmoke]

is the proper method to take hold of the rod firmly and push the prb down a few inches at a time? a few stabs at the bottom to seat and pack, or use 2 hands to "drive" the prb down with a series of strokes? Also is there a certain way things should be seated in the breech, or do most hit bottom, pack w/ a few good strokes and redi? Again Im green as grass so I apologize for the elementary ques. Scott