Rasps For Gun Making

[MSW]

I have a set of go-to rasps as well. One ******* rasp I have been using for 30 years and still an excellent cutter, like a hyperactive beaver with a hanble.
I got a set of NKTM wood rasps a couple years ago and they have really become my favorite. Very sharp and quick but so smooth cutting. Even good for horn work. (Attached is a pic from the internet).
It's nice to have favorite tools.

thanks for the post .. just ordered a pair

 

[dave_person]

I have 3 dozen worn out # 49s in a bundle waiting to be sent off to be sharpened.

Hi Mike,
Yeah, they are good rasps if you can find the old ones. However, if you are just setting out today, those are rare.

dave

 

[TDM]

Took a few photos of my file and rasp collection. Mostly old ones, some new ones. Have quite a few old Nicholson’s and cheap ones too.

 

[kansas_volunteer]

There is a great rasp available here.
http://www.bowyersedge.com/stock.htmlI like the one I have.

I use one of these a lot.
https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-CONS...s=stanley+surform+rasp&qid=1679962866&sr=8-15
Here is another I use quite a bit.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-21-1...?keywords=stanley+rasp&qid=1679963182&sr=8-19
There are some of these on ebay for a lesser price.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Hi Mike,
Yeah, they are good rasps if you can find the old ones. However, if you are just setting out today, those

These date as far back as the 80s. The last one I bought was from Mexico . It arrived dull. I was not amused. It cost the same as the USA made files. I use an angle grinder for gross wood removal since 2015 when I started to fall apart. All I use the # 49 for now is final shaping.

 

[Old-Duckman]

These date as far back as the 80s. The last one I bought was from Mexico . It arrived dull. I was not amused. It cost the same as the USA made files. I use an angle grinder for gross wood removal since 2015 when I started to fall apart. All I use the # 49 for now is final shaping.

As I noted in an earlier post in this thread, I too have two new Nicholson's that are made in Mexico. Luckily mine are sharp and cut well but they do load up-clog quickly. I clean them with the wire side of a file card, the brush side does not do much to clean them out.

I am very pleased with the Narex brand. I considered hand cut rasps but just couldn't go for the high cost. I'm not a professional most of my work is for my own firearms so those that I have fill my needs. I do like the "Gunsmith's rasp" that the OP showed...might have to check into that.

 

[Robby]

Mine aren't too sharp anymore, but I'm hesitant to buy a tool that will probably out last me.
Robby

 

[waksupi]

Hi Mike,
I used the same for 30 years but it eventually dulled a bit and the news ones were not worth the price. I gave mine to my blind friend, Josh, and went with the Liogiers.

dave

That's where Bogg's Tool comes in. They sharpen files and rasps sharper than new.

 

[Old-Duckman]

Mine aren't too sharp anymore, but I'm hesitant to buy a tool that will probably out last me.
Robby

Really? My heir(s) hopefully will get some use out of them. Or maybe when they auction off all my stuff they might add a few bucks to the take. Personally I never bid on files in an auction...most people don't know how to care for them. If you see them all piled on top of each other in a box, (which you always do) well that's enough for me to pass.

 

[springfield art]

Hi,
I had a good day finally beginning to have energy again. Was treated to a beautiful winter mountain sky this afternoon.





Some friends who are forming a 1770s British 33 Regiment of Foot Grenadier company came over to talk history, guns, and to drill a bit in my field. I had worked on some of their muskets and they were able to pick them up today.

There are many different styles of rasps and I've used a bunch of them. I am just going to highlight a few that I and others find extremely useful. After bandsawing off excess wood, I do 75% of my gun shaping with rasps. Folks have seen me at Dixon's and at the Kempton Gunmakers Fair shape the wrist and most of the lock panels of a squared stock blank in less than an hour using a couple of rasps and files. For sure there are always many different ways to skin the same cat but rasps really work for me given how I like to work.

First up are the standard cheap wood rasp (bottom) you can buy in a hardware store and a medium sized farrier's rasp (top). They both work very well and remove wood fast.



The hardware store rasps tend to dull quickly but they work. The farrier's rasp is a wood removing beast. However, the regular rows of machine cut teeth cut deep furrows in the wood that need to be smoothed a lot.

Next up are a couple of Japanese milled rasps sold by Lee Valley. I like these tools a lot for straight forward wood removal. They are sharp beasts and it is best to attach a handle to protect your hands. Unlike the previous rasps, they leave a pretty smooth surface behind.



The downside is they only cut effectively in a straight forward direction. It is difficult to use them to blend surfaces using a sideways movement or roll to the rasp. You have to cut straight forward and that leaves the profile of the rasp in the stock. Stanley company makes the Surform line of rasps. These are aggressive wood removers as well and leave a fairly smooth surface behind. My example here is actually my cheese grater but if you turn the blade around it is a Surform file. These are inexpensive but they dull quickly in hardwood.





Now we get to rasps I use far more than anything else. These are my Liogier cabinet maker's rasps and gunsmith rasp.






The teeth are hand cut in a relatively random pattern. Then the tool is hardened and tempered. I like the beautiful sapphire finish. The irregularly spaced teeth create a smoother finish behind and shed wood chips much better than machine cut teeth. These rasps cut quickly and smoothly. All can be purchased with coarseness of cut ranging from 1 to 15, with 15 being the finest. They replaced my old Nicholson #49 and #50 pattern maker's rasp after those were no longer made in America and the quality deteriorated badly. Liogier is not the only maker of these fine hand stitched rasps. Auriel is another.

Now here is one of my aces in the hole. The Liogier 12" gunsmith's rasp. This is a life saver. The long blade allows you to work on the combs and cheek pieces of your stock from the rear without whacking your knuckles against the end of the stock. This is a huge advantage. The narrow width is also ideal for shaping the end of the comb and the cheek piece.



I also am a big fan of Stew-Mac's Dragon rasps. These Japanese made rasps have random teeth and the sharp narrow point to the blade is incredibly useful for getting into tight spots. Mine is a fine cut and leaves a surface behind superior to a coarse file. This tool is excellent for smoothing the background around carving because of the narrow point.








Finally, my apprentice, Maria, mentioned this week that Japanese Shinto rasps were really popular at the Canter's Cave rifle making workshop. They come in many shapes and are very aggressive cutters. However, I personally, have no experience with them unlike all the other rasps I've discussed.



dave

Hey, are you the fellow who had a box of large free rasps (take one!) at the Dixon's new-location Fair? I took one, thanks! You really know your subject!

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

That's where Bogg's Tool comes in. They sharpen files and rasps sharper than new.

I have been trying to send them there for more than 10 years. Can't get my act together enough to get it done

 

[Pete G]

I have been trying to send them there for more than 10 years. Can't get my act together enough to get it done

Stick them in vinegar for a couple of days.

 

[BackDraft]

I understand the concept of “Buy once, cry once”; but, what would be some lesser cost rasps for those of use just starting out.

 

[repawn]

I understand the concept of “Buy once, cry once”; but, what would be some lesser cost rasps for those of use just starting out.

Your best bet is estate sales - I have a variety I picked up for a few bucks (not each - but for about 10) including one wood rasp - most are old nicholsons and a few sheffields. Since then I have purchased a few new rasps as I have needed them. I believe my Narex rasp at $40 cost as much as about 30 other rasps. The Narex is very good though.

 

[Old-Duckman]

I understand the concept of “Buy once, cry once”; but, what would be some lesser cost rasps for those of use just starting out.

I agree with respawn on the quality and relative reasonable price of Narex rasps.

However I would be cautious buying used rasps or files, most people don’t store them correctly and thus they are dulled. Just like you look at the edge of a knife blade, if you see light reflecting off of the edge…the blade is dull, the same goes for files and rasps. If you see light reflecting off of the teeth, the tool is dull. Even if handled correctly, they will eventually become dull with use.

Just a tip, When doing a lot of work with rasps, I wear a leather glove on my left hand. I am right handed.

 

[repawn]

I agree with respawn on the quality and relative reasonable price of Narex rasps.

However I would be cautious buying used rasps or files, most people don’t store them correctly and thus they are dulled. Just like you look at the edge of a knife blade, if you see light reflecting off of the edge…the blade is dull, the same goes for files and rasps. If you see light reflecting off of the teeth, the tool is dull. Even if handled correctly, they will eventually become dull with use.

Just a tip, When doing a lot of work with rasps, I wear a leather glove on my left hand. I am right handed.

As someone who just stabbed myself in the tip of the finger while filing some metal two days ago - gloves are a great idea! After the bleeding was under control I remembered I had a variety of handles and putting them on helps a bunch.
There are dud files from time to time - but if I spend 5 bucks and come away with one or two good ones - the remainder make good knife blanks (after annealing.)

 

[Col. Batguano]

Since these rasps are on the spendy side at ~$100-$140 each, which ones would you suggest as first, or "must have" rasp(s)? Sort of an "in which order would you accumulate them" question for a guy looking to upgrade? I understand that "all of the above" is the real answer, but most of us accumulate and upgrade our tool piles incrementally, rather than all at once, especially when it comes to this sort of (expensive upgrading) thing.

 

[billraby]

Liogier rasps are custom made. Just get whichever one you wish you had.

 

[BadDaditood]

I got a Shinto, it’s now my must have. So much so I bought a second one with offset handle this time. They never clog but I imagine they can get dull eventually.
Excellent tools and not spendy!

 

[kansas_volunteer]

The Liogier rasps I ordered (see post above) have been forged. In an email from them they said the tools will now be stitched and should be ready by July 1st. When you order from Liogier you are getting truly custom tools made just for you. I'm looking forward to receiving the rasps. I may put some things off until they arrive.