Ratio of

[kayja]

Anyone have a rough idea of how much FFFFG to buy if one is buying 15 lbs of FFG.. this will be for long term storage and should last us for 15-20 yrs.
We believe powder is not going to get any cheaper and after guns are banned, then it'll be a ban on muzzel loaders and butter knives, the we make our own powder.
2nd Q?. we're going to store this in fireproof safes, would storing to bottles in food savor bags inside the safe also help with the hummity problem? thanks

 

[roundball]

Anyone have a rough idea of how much FFFFG to buy if one is buying 15 lbs of FFG.. this will be for long term storage and should last us for 15-20 yrs.
We believe powder is not going to get any cheaper and after guns are banned, then it'll be a ban on muzzel loaders and butter knives, the we make our own powder.
2nd Q?. we're going to store this in fireproof safes, would storing to bottles in food savor bags inside the saft also help with the hummity problem? thanks

As one reference point for you, when I order a case of Goex, I get one can of 4F, 24 cans 3F.

Simply doing the math, knowing I use a 3grn dispenser tip on my pan primer, that's about 2333 primes (shots)out of 7000grns of 4F.

Using mostly 50-60grn target loads of 3F...the math = roughly 100 shots per can of 3F X 24 cans = 2400 shots...pretty darn close to 2333 primes.

NOTE: If you're already going to buy as many as 15 cans, It'll be far cheaper per can delivered price to your front door with a case price of 25 cans.

I've use a Goex distributor in Moscow, PA called J&J Pyrotechnics for several years now...'Bonnie' will mix granulations anyway you like.[url] www.jjpyrotechnics.com[/url]

 

[paulvallandigham]

YOu don't have to use 4Fg powder for prime. You can do just as well with 3Fg. So, first decide what powder you want to use in your rifle or smoothbore, and then determine the need for priming powder. But, as Roundball has indicated it really becomes a matter of math. You have to have some idea of how much powder you use when you prime. I use more than 3 grains.

If I were ordering powder for the long haul, I would order a case, with 23 lbs. of 2Fg, and 2 lbs. of 3Fg. I happen to use the 2Fg powder in both my smoothbore, and my .50 cal. rifle, but the 3Fg can be used in the rifle, too.

I do think that Roundball's suggestion to order a full case, to gain further savings, is smart. Also, check with Graf and Sons, and with Powder, Inc, two other distributors mentioned here often my members as great places to order powder at rock-bottom prices. All three mix an order however you want, and it is delivered to your doorstep. You can find a list of powder distributors by going to the Member resources section shown on the Index page in the top, or first section.

Do some comparison shopping, buy what you want. People are also raving about the quality of Swiss powders, and of both Schuetzen powder, and Wano powder, which they are buying from one of the distributors cheaper than the price of Goex. Swiss is more expensive.

I think you might also consider buying and storing a second case. If the poop really does hit the air conditioner, you will own some very expensive product that will be in high demand. The richest man is the man with friends, and a man who takes care of his friends need for powder probably will have the best friends of all by his side. He will need them.

Ast to storage. If you do not open the cans as they are delivered from the factory, you should have no problem with moisture contaminating the powder. Now, being make of metal, moisture can rust the outsides. So, putting the cans in a couple of layers of plastic bags would protect the cans from exposure to moisture. Use some dessicant packets in each bag to help absorb any moisture that might get in. Just store the powder in a COOL, DRY place- not in a damp basement, or in the garage where it hot as blazes in the summer, and the humidty is high.

If you own an old refrigerator, it can make great storage place for powder, The sides are insulated, to keep the temperature inside stable, and if the motor and condenser work at all, they will remove the moisture that might get into the box. Removing Ice, or water from the drip tray is about all that you need to considerin periodic maintainance. Just don't store your beer, and other consumables that have water in them in the box. That would be expecting a bit much. You do want to modify the refrigerator door by putting a hasp on it, so you can padlock the refrigerator to keep nosy people and kids out of it.

 

[flintlockmdj]

If I were buying the powder in light of future unavalability I would do as Paul P. said and buy all FFFg and buy a 25 lb. case. You will pay about the same for shipping 25 lbs as 15 and the same hasmat. The average hunter and target shooter cannot tell the difference between the ignition time of FFFg and FFFFg and a deer won't care.

 

[kayja]

I just ordered a case of Sch2Fg Schuetzen Black Powder and 2 lbs of Null-B Swiss Black Powder at a great price.
also was told by the seller that he sells safes for black powder and not to store it in regular fire proof safes made for valuables, it could create a bomb..
But like the post up above, he said the best thing to store powder in is an old refridg. even after the house in burned down, firemen can open the door and the food is always in there, untouched by the fire.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Over time I have come to simliplify things, I use 3F in all ML, including priming.

 

[renovato]

I've only started shooting flint in the last few months, but as the folks said, 3F works fine for priming. No sense getting any 4F.

The cans are already sealed. I can't see any benefit to putting them in bags. I've had things stored in plastic bags rot due to condensation so I would avoid using them.

If you're trying to stock in a long term supply, you're allowed to keep 50 lbs. The best price break seems to be at 20 lbs. You might consider a 25 lb order, followed by another 25 lb order later on as finances allow.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Plink: The plastic bags work to keep leaks and moisture off the cans, which can rust. But they only work in conjunction with using dessicants inside the plastic bags to absorb moisture and create an " artificially " dry environment around the can. The plasic will not keep the powder " dryer " than it already is in the sealed cans. The plastic is simply to protect the cans from dust, and moisture that will rust the cans, and over a long time, pose a threat to penetrating the cans.

Another idea for long term storage would be to spray the cans with either lacquer, or an acryllic varnish. That would also seal the outside of the cans to protect them from moisture. But, Then DO put the cans in plastic bags to protect them from getting dusty. The dust will attract moisture and from that you will get rust. I had some powder cans that got dust on the top of them while sitting in a closet, and I had plumes of rust sprout up on the top of the cans. I rubbed the flowers off, and used a good solvent to go after the rust and pits, and then oiled the tops, and them in plastic bags. I had no further trouble with rust until I had used up all the powder, and the cans were not breached.