RB making

[mississippi]

I would like to start making my own RB i have the pot and pure lead all i like is the mould and dipper so here is my Question #1 do i need to add anything to the lead like beewax? #2 what temp. should i heat the lead to before i make the RB? #3 what is a good price to pay for pure lead

 

[riverrat43]

Welcome to the world of casting. I'll try to address your questions until someone more knowledgable comes along. (That would be most anyone by the way)

1. Yes, you need to flux. You can purchase a product called "magnaflux" (I think) or, just use a pea sized piece of beeswax or paraffin wax. Be careful when you add the flux, due to the tendancy of the added wax to burst into flames as soon as you add it to the molten lead. Not a big deal if you are expecting it, it can just catch you by surprise sometimes. After the flame goes out, stir the lead making sure to scrape the sides and bottom. The "dross" will float to the top and you skim it off and discard.

2. I think my pot temp is about 650 to 700 degrees.

3. Haven't a clue since I scrounge lead from many sources.

A couple of words of caution. Wear heavy gloves, eye protection and cast in a well ventilated area. Also, make sure there is NO WATER source nearby. This includes looking into the pot and letting a drop of sweat drop into the molten lead. Liquid falling into molten lead will transport you to explosion/ splatter city in a heartbeat. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

 

[REX]

Everything Riverrat said is true, :agree:I've been casting for 25 yrs and you can't be carful enough. I flux, stir and skim a lot to remove the gunk that is on top.
You can fined LEE double cavity Roundball moulds at Midsouth shooters supply for a good price (about $18.00).
rex (westcoastBPgramps)
BP shooting is fun

 

[bovey]

Also be sure to wear old pants, shoes, and shirts. I have several that are decorated with splatters. Also pay attention to the ground or floor you are on as you will have an accumulation of little splatters and splashes.

Ventilation is very important! I use a propane plumbers pot.

Try a plumbing supply house for plumbers lead.

 

[soggy]

M/S/H Introduce a mason (brick-layer) to muzzle loader shooting. You'll create another BP shooter and you will have an inexhaustable supply of lead. :thumbsup:
A Good rule of thumb is; You should be every bit as careful casting lead as you are handling firearms. :imo: SOGGY

 

[strongarm]

I buy pure lead from a metal company and pay 68 cents a pound, 50# minimum. The lead I buy is called corroding lead. It's the same stuff they used to put into lead paint years ago. It is 99.99994% lead.

Another pure form is called chemical lead and that is used for extruding like in leaded glass pane windows. It is also what is used in chemistry labs where lead is tested. It is a little purer than the other and contains a little more copper.

Other wise go to a scrap yard and buy roof lead. Used in the 40's and 50's for sealing soil pipes on top of houses.
Use only the lead and cut out the 'weld' joints which have a lot of tine in them. By doing this you will be using lead around 97.5% Price 30 to 40 cents per pound.

 

[wtilenw]

M/S/H Introduce a mason (brick-layer) to muzzle loader shooting. You'll create another BP shooter and you will have an inexhaustable supply of lead.

I guess I missed the point. What do You mean by that. Where does a brick mason get so much lead? :: ::
Idaho PRB eace:

 

A couple of words of caution. Wear heavy gloves, eye protection and cast in a well ventilated area. Also, make sure there is NO WATER source nearby. This includes looking into the pot and letting a drop of sweat drop into the molten lead. Liquid falling into molten lead will transport you to explosion/ splatter city in a heartbeat. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

nor should you cast balls in the shade of a tree full of starlings...don't ask me, either, but molten lead explodes when bird @#$% is applied to it.

So Sayeth The Buffler :shake:

 

[CrackStock]

<<<I would like to start making my own RB>>>

Glad to hear it.

<< i have the pot and pure lead all i like is the mould and dipper>>>

Lack? I like my Lyman dipper from Track of the Wolf. I have moulds from many companies. Lyman are expensive, but good. Lee are not so expensive and also good, but they are aluminum. As a target shooter, I try to stay at .005 less that the bore size, but then that is a bit tight for many shooters. Many prefer .01. Try before you buy.

The Lee and Lyman are modern block moulds with handy sprue cutters at the top. For period correct styles, look under "bag moulds" Dixie and Rapine are examples of bag moulds.

<<< so here is my Question #1 do i need to add anything to the lead like beewax? >>>

Some flux with wax, or commercial products and other just stir often. Try both and test.

<<<#2 what temp. should i heat the lead to before i make the RB?>>>

You will find that you will develop a better feel for the end product than just looking at the temp of the lead in the pot. The mould temp is just as important. Wavy or wrinkled balls = mould is likely too cool and frosted balls = lead is likely too hot. Will frustrate you for a time, but you will play with it and it will become easier.

When you get a mould, you should also clean carefully and then smoke the mould or use a release agent.

<<<#3 what is a good price to pay for pure lead>>>

I got a bunch from a hospital for free. I also got about 25 pounds for $5 from another site.

I once paid about 10 cents per pound for wheel weights which I later used up in other types of guns. Those rang and felt too hard for my MLs.

YMHS,
CrackStock

 

[Cjcalls]

M/S/H Introduce a mason (brick-layer) to muzzle loader shooting. You'll create another BP shooter and you will have an inexhaustable supply of lead.

I guess I missed the point. What do You mean by that. Where does a brick mason get so much lead? :: ::
Idaho PRB eace:

Easy. He steals it from the roofers and plumbers. :crackup: :crackup: :crackup: :sorry: