I have a CVA kit rifle that I built many years ago. Just got interested in flintlocks again. The browning on this rifle is very splotchy. Sloppily done. I’d like to re-brown. Can this be done and how would I prepare the barrel. Thanks for any help. E..
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Re-brown a barrel
- Thread starter Gvilleddie
- Start date
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GANGGREEN
45 Cal.
Yes, you can re-do it easily. Just draw file or sand the barrel down to bare steel. I just did one of mine that was browned years ago and which I've never been particularly happy with and it now looks great.
Done a few rebrowns over the years and the beauty of browning is it blends well.
I have had best results with Laurel Mtn solution, probably as degreasing is less critical.
First i degrease as well as i can with meths or acetone and scotchbrite.
Once done i go straight into browning. No filing and no sanding.
Only times this has had issues is whete i have used a wax to protect the finish.
Great thing is you can always go back to bare metal if my methid doesnt work.
I have had best results with Laurel Mtn solution, probably as degreasing is less critical.
First i degrease as well as i can with meths or acetone and scotchbrite.
Once done i go straight into browning. No filing and no sanding.
Only times this has had issues is whete i have used a wax to protect the finish.
Great thing is you can always go back to bare metal if my methid doesnt work.
Sure, like others have said it's easy. When I do that job I'll take a little time and make the extra effort. I knock the sights and lugs off the barrel then block sand it down with 220, then 320. (Others go on with finer grades of sand paper but I've never found in necessary).
Like LawrenceA I've had great results with Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution, just follow instructions/tutorials (one swipe, no rubbing!)
Common mistakes are not using blocks to sand, rounding the octagon edges of the barrel or simply being lazy about removing the old finish near the corners of installed sights an such.
If ya want a nice job, pay attention to the details,
p.s. A sweat box helps, or a steamy shower to get the rust started quick. If you do the steamy shower put something under the barrel to catch drips, it can stain fiberglass
Like LawrenceA I've had great results with Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution, just follow instructions/tutorials (one swipe, no rubbing!)
Common mistakes are not using blocks to sand, rounding the octagon edges of the barrel or simply being lazy about removing the old finish near the corners of installed sights an such.
If ya want a nice job, pay attention to the details,
p.s. A sweat box helps, or a steamy shower to get the rust started quick. If you do the steamy shower put something under the barrel to catch drips, it can stain fiberglass
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Depending where you live you might not need a sweat box or shower. I use LMF and just leave the parts outside overnight under the roof of my archery target. If you live in a place that has dew on the grass in the morning you have enough humidity to brown your parts. Of course if you live in a northern zone with plenty of cold and snow this won't work year round like it does in NW Alabama for me.
The same parts a few days and several applications later before the final carding.
The same parts a few days and several applications later before the final carding.
Thx for the responses. I have the Birchwood Plum Brown solution. Will this give satisfactory results?
Plum Brown will work if you throughly de-grease the surfaces to remove all traces of oil or grease including your oily finger prints. (Wear gloves while you handle the parts).
Heat the metal to a temperature of 280° F +/- 15 ° and apply the solution with a cotton rag. Do this outside as the fumes really smell bad and they are not good for you to breath.
If you overheat the metal the PB will rapidly evaporate leaving a mottled uneven, scaly appearance. (The scale must be washed off before proceeding.)If the metal is too cool, the PB will deposit a layer of copper on the surface. If this happens the only cure is to sand off all of the copper and start again.
Between coatings, you will need to wash the dried PB off with water. Then, reheat the metal and apply another coat.
This usually has to be done at least 3 times to get a uniform appearance.
Only after you are satisfied with the look can you apply any oil to the surface. When you do reach this stage, apply regular petroleum oil. Engine oil, 3 in 1 oil or any similar oil can be used. Once the oil is applied, sit the part to the side and give it at least 12 hours before you try to wipe the oil off.
This will even out the light/dark areas making the overall appearance look much better than it does before you oil it.
I've used PB on several barrels on the guns I built and was never really happy with it.
The heating, breathing the nasty fumes when the PB was applied, washing, sanding off some copper if it appears (as it usually does), reheating, applying....... isn't a very easy process to get good results on large objects like a barrel.
Another thing I don't like about it is, it does not change the texture of the surface at all. If the surface is shiny or highly polished before applying PB, it will be the same after your done. Real browning rarely has a highly polished look to it. To get around this if you do use PB I suggest you do your finish sanding with a sandpaper no finer than 150 grit and leave it as sanded.
I still do use PB on small parts like a lock plate, steel butt plate or trigger guard but for larger things I use one of the cold rust solutions like Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown & Degreaser. (I ignore the "Degreaser" and degrease all of the parts I am going to brown.)
Heat the metal to a temperature of 280° F +/- 15 ° and apply the solution with a cotton rag. Do this outside as the fumes really smell bad and they are not good for you to breath.
If you overheat the metal the PB will rapidly evaporate leaving a mottled uneven, scaly appearance. (The scale must be washed off before proceeding.)If the metal is too cool, the PB will deposit a layer of copper on the surface. If this happens the only cure is to sand off all of the copper and start again.
Between coatings, you will need to wash the dried PB off with water. Then, reheat the metal and apply another coat.
This usually has to be done at least 3 times to get a uniform appearance.
Only after you are satisfied with the look can you apply any oil to the surface. When you do reach this stage, apply regular petroleum oil. Engine oil, 3 in 1 oil or any similar oil can be used. Once the oil is applied, sit the part to the side and give it at least 12 hours before you try to wipe the oil off.
This will even out the light/dark areas making the overall appearance look much better than it does before you oil it.
I've used PB on several barrels on the guns I built and was never really happy with it.
The heating, breathing the nasty fumes when the PB was applied, washing, sanding off some copper if it appears (as it usually does), reheating, applying....... isn't a very easy process to get good results on large objects like a barrel.
Another thing I don't like about it is, it does not change the texture of the surface at all. If the surface is shiny or highly polished before applying PB, it will be the same after your done. Real browning rarely has a highly polished look to it. To get around this if you do use PB I suggest you do your finish sanding with a sandpaper no finer than 150 grit and leave it as sanded.
I still do use PB on small parts like a lock plate, steel butt plate or trigger guard but for larger things I use one of the cold rust solutions like Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown & Degreaser. (I ignore the "Degreaser" and degrease all of the parts I am going to brown.)
Thanks so much. Looks like Laurel Mountain is the way to go. E..
Looks like you live in the same sweat box Eric and I do. You should have no trouble with your project with the advice given already.
Dave
Dave
Yeah, we tend to have a little summertime humidity.
I have found when browning barrels in humid southern summers that extra steps are occasionally needed to stop the browning solution from rusting. A 24 hour soak in diluted baking soda or household ammonia neutralizes the acid in the browning solution. I dry the barrel with a hair dryer then it goes into a motor oil soak for another day or two.
Don't be surprised if your barrel keeps rusting even after you give it an ammonia bath and a baking soda slurry wiper down plus a motor oil soaking, just keep carding it. The rusting will stop, it may be a week or a month but it will stop.
I got worried on my last rifle and asked the good folk here about the continuing rust, they assured me this was normal, it would stop, and they were right.
This is at least three weeks after I neutralized and after I heated the barrel and brushed it with motor oil, the rusting stopped after a month or so.
All the other parts stopped rusting after I left them submerged in ammonia for a day or so.
I got worried on my last rifle and asked the good folk here about the continuing rust, they assured me this was normal, it would stop, and they were right.
This is at least three weeks after I neutralized and after I heated the barrel and brushed it with motor oil, the rusting stopped after a month or so.
All the other parts stopped rusting after I left them submerged in ammonia for a day or so.
Kmcmichael
45 Cal.
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I am wanting to install the barrel. Will I have to wait a month?
If you use LM, and it’s a product I like, when you do the barrel or small piece wipe once in one direction.
You will see the wet looks a bit uneven, and be tempted to to rewipe. Or wipe backwards. Don’t do it!!!!
It makes an ugly copper look
and a ton of work to repair
Follow the direction to a t
You will see the wet looks a bit uneven, and be tempted to to rewipe. Or wipe backwards. Don’t do it!!!!
It makes an ugly copper look
and a ton of work to repairFollow the direction to a t
LM can go on in a few days.
