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RE Davis locks

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Arrived today two RE Davis Contract pattern flintlocks for a couple of projects. All the springs, main, frizzen and sear seem quite strong. It makes me think the locks might prove to be rock crushers. Those with experience, what opinions of these locks might you have?
 
Arrived today two RE Davis Contract pattern flintlocks for a couple of projects. All the springs, main, frizzen and sear seem quite strong. It makes me think the locks might prove to be rock crushers. Those with experience, what opinions of these locks might you have?
I've had a gun with a Davis Late English 'Twigg" lock for quite a few years and it has given good service and no problems. It's not hard on flints.

Spence
 
I have a Pete Allen design Davis lock on my .54.
The springs on it are very strong, but it doesn’t crush flints…

The only issue I’ve had was with a dozen French amber flints once….

I think the issue then was more with the flint than the lock.
 
I personally had bad luck with a Davis Twigg. Had it worked on 3 times. A gentleman here on the forum put a ton of expertise to get it to be easier on flints and reliable.
it really cost me a ton of frustration.
 
I would think if there is a problem with a Davis lock, The Log Cabin Shop would quickly take care of it.
 
My most recent build is a Jaeger rifle. It has the R E Davis Jaeger lock on it. I haven't had a chance to shoot it much, but I'm very impressed with the lock. It sparks well and the French amber flints show no signs of abuse plus the frizzen shows no signs of scoring. The lock geometry and spring balance appear to be first rate. A friend of mine, who is a much more accomplished flintlock builder than I, is a big fan of Davis locks and he's used many on his projects.
 
My round face Davis flinter on my 62 was very heavy. I tuned the spring a bit to lessen the weight of it and couldn't be happier. She sparks like nobody's business. It just was very heavy when new. IMO no need for such a heavy fall when the geometry is correct. Proper sparking should not require such a heavy spring.

However I ordered and had on hand another spring to lighten just in case.
 
I have bought L&R Flint locks and pleased with them.....but I prefer originals at treble the price if I can find them , how do theses compare with Davis locks and are they loss wax as well.
 
I have used Davis locks in a number of guns. I have only found a couple that needed the mainspring narrowed a bit with the flintlocks. The trouble I have run into is they use the same springs on the caplock versions as the flint versions. I trim down the caplock springs as needed. They all need polishing the inside bearing surfaces and making sure there is clearance between the mainspring and plate. Overall I do like Davis locks. They are an improvement over the kits I used to get from Bud Siler.
 
I’ve had two Davis locks. The one on my centermark is a fine lock. And I get atleast forty shots on average without having to touch the flint. I have zero complaints about it and consider it a fine piece of work
I had another that was wrong in everything. Bad cock, soft frizzen, a fly that snapped and sear that bent. Top jaw screw was the first trouble I had with it warping about the third time I shot it. Replaced it with a Siler blank that I cut to fit the mortise.
Bought it from Log cabin and thy didn’t stand behind it. Because I already cut the lock bolts and had cold browned it before I discovered it’s failures in use. Pre internet days and I never got an answer to my snail mail to Davis
 
All the Davis lock I've used have been fine and he was good with parts . I think the J''ager has perhaps to much fall to the pan but his ' Twigg' is the most elegant lock on the market.
Rudyard
 
Hi KV,
Davis locks are OK and are a major step up from L&R, which are the bottom of the heap. Their designs are pretty good although the Twigg lock needs the tumbler moved forward by 1/16-3/32" to correct flaws in its geometry. The big jaeger lock is pretty good but it is massive and needs the mainspring strengthened. Likewise the Harper's Ferry lock has weak springs that need strengthening. I forged new main and frizzen springs for it and it is a fine utilitarian lock.
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The early American colonial lock is good and is also quite large, and is perhaps Davis' best lock. However, the the flintcock and frizzen are huge and often look too large for the gun. Fortunately, a flintcock from Chambers' early Ketland lock fits perfectly and makes a better looking lock along with grinding the frizzen a little lower. Here is one with the outline of the plate altered
cFFevkr.jpg


Davis' late English flintlock is a good design but suffers a bit from execution. It has a short throw for the flintcock, as many English locks of that time did, which requires a stout mainspring. Unfortunately, the mainspring is weak and needs to be strengthened considerably. In addition the roller frizzen spring was poorly positioned such that the roller rubbed the toe of the frizzen on one side, not dead center. The frizzen actually pushed the roller and spring out away from the plate. That was easily corrected and it can be made into a first rate late flint English lock.
HDDxM8F.jpg

jaDH6yw.jpg

I also found the lock benefited from a thick sole on the face of the frizzen, which added mass to the frizzen and improved performance quite a bit, particularly when the lock was dirty from firing and flint worn.

I've had some quality control issues with Davis locks. On the early American colonial lock voids in the lock plate bolster where the rear bolt had to go required welding to fix. In addition, Davis always uses the same tiny screws in their locks regardless of how big it is. I wish on the bigger locks they would choose larger screws. All in all, they can be fine locks if you work them over a bit and they are much better than L&R. M&G locks (Larry Zorne) are very similar to Davis. Here is a M&G lock that I worked over.
Before:
xElqWHZ.jpg

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After
p01S0pR.jpg

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I've recently had a Danny Caywood lock in my shop to work over. It was from an older Caywood English trade gun, and whoever made it knew what he was about. It was a fine lock that just needed a little tweaking of the springs.

With respect to commercially made locks readily available to makers in America and Canada, there is a definite hierarchy of design and quality. The top of the heap is Chris Laubach's CNC machined Germanic jaeger lock. The entire lock is cut from steel stock except the springs, which are forged. The inside and outside are polished to the equivalent of 400 grit paper so it is the only lock I am comfortable with taking out of the box, installing, and going right to the engraving bench without working on it. Next are Jim Kibler's offerings, which are mostly CNC machined but use cast frizzens and flintcocks. I will tweak the one on my bench right now a little but it is basically fine right out of the box. Unlike Laubach's lock, the outside needs to be polished before engraving or finishing. Next are all of Jim Chambers' offerings. They need work on the outside and benefit from polishing the internals as well as balancing the springs. However, they are superb locks. If Caywood's current production is as good as the older lock I worked on, his locks are equal to Chambers in every measure. Stan Hollenbaugh also makes a suite of locks of the same quality of design and construction. After those makers comes Davis and perhaps M&G. At the bottom by a good measure is L&R.

The very finest locks I've ever experienced, including original English locks, are the two Wogdon locks, I built from castings by E. J. Blackley.
NFAzQWj.jpg

kVyKmN6.jpg


dave
 
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I think you are being a bit hard on L&R locks but then I havn't bought any bodies locks or a new lock for twenty years havn't had too.
Rudyard
 
I think you are being a bit hard on L&R locks but then I havn't bought any bodies locks or a new lock for twenty years havn't had too.
Rudyard
Funny how things work out. The best lock I ever bought was an L and R. And chambers Siler that was great from the first cock of the gun.
 
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