Ready to step in

[kd8jgu]

I will be purchasing my first flint lock the day after christmas
It will be a Lyman Great Plains Rifle
I have only fired percussion in past
So what else should I look at purchasing
Thanks everyone

 

[Stumpkiller]

Flints.

A tiny priming flask or horn is handy.

Buy or make a Cow's Knee to cover the lock if you plan on hunting with it.

Balls, blackpowder, powder measure, patch material, powder horn, shooting bag, jag, ball puller.

And other items that may come in handy but are not as needed like a range or cleaning rod, short starter, ball block, patch knife, vent pick, flint wallet, small screwdriver (for the top jaw screw & lock), etc. etc.

 

[jethro224]

3/4 inch square flints to be exact. REAL flints! Not sawn agate!

A 1/16th or 5/64th inch drill bit to fix the tiny little touch hole.

Some kind of vent pick, or just make one.

Possibly a new-style T/C hammer to do ebiggs' upgrade for a much better strike on the frizzen.

Lots and lots of powder, ball, and patches 'cause you're gonna be having a lot of fun shootin'.

Most of the other stuff will carry over from your capguns.

 

[FPDoc]

If you are going to get the T/C hammer, be sure to buy the Top Jaw and Jaw Screw as well. They are different sizes than the GPR uses. It takes about 2 weeks to get the parts delivered.

T/C Part numbers:
Hammer 51015630
Top Jaw 51015700
Jaw Screw 51165680

 

[Rifleman1776]

REAL flints! Not sawn agate!

Boo...Hisss.... :nono: :shake:
Sawn flints, agate or otherwise, ARE REAL flints. They are just milled, not knapped. I used them for 30 years with great success. Fantastic sparkers and last much-much (really much-much-much) longer than English black knapped ones.
A lot depends on your lock but any flint will get eaten up by a poorly hardened frizzen.
Otherwise most advice given so far it fine. Do what you wish but I suggest, at least, expermenting with the sawn flints.

 

[jamesthomas]

Boo hiss :nono: on sawn agate, go get some Rich Pierce Flints! :thumbsup:

 

[BrownBear]

I'd get a wooden replacement "flint" to put into the jaws for dry fire practice. That made a bigger difference in my accuracy than any load adjustments. It's a whole lot easier to shoot a flinter accurately if you're used to the feel and timing of it all. The wood flint lets you "shoot" it 50 or 100 times a night, every night between field sessions.

 

[chance]

Did you make or purchase your wood flint? If so where did you get it? Not meaning to highjack thread. Thanks.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Boo hiss :nono: on sawn agate, go get some Rich Pierce Flints! :thumbsup:

Can't argue with that. I'll have to try some of Rich's sometime.

 

[kd8jgu]

Flint leathers or lead flint clamps
Are either of these needed
And I have found finally a lf handed 54cal

 

[jethro224]

Yep. You will need one or the other to keep the flint secure in the jaws. I use a piece of leather. Some folks like lead better. Either one will work. You just need something that will conform to the lead and give the jaws something to squeeze into. Do not use cloth or anything else that might hold a spark!