REAL bullets

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May give these a try. Does any place sell these already made or are they cast only? Also, mold sizes I see for .50 are 250 and 320 and for .54 are 300 and 380. What size should I use for deer in each caliber? Thanks for your help
 
I'm sitting here trying to decide if I start casting and selling some of these... What is the actual desire? I have 45-200, 50-250, and 50-320 molds. The 45 also has a round ball cavity, got it because I knew half of it would work no matter what happened.

I was thinking $12 for 20 (roughly one pound) plus shipping which isn't trivial these days.

The 50-320 shot well out of my 1:48 Traditions barrel, I'm hoping the 45-200 will work out of my 1:60 old CVA barrel.

I also have a 450 grain mold for 50-100 for those messing with black powder cartridge rifles, bought it to size down for a .510 airgun.

So in short, are the R.E.A.L. bullets popular enough to spend time making? Or should I just cast what I need for my own use?
 
I'm sitting here trying to decide if I start casting and selling some of these... What is the actual desire? I have 45-200, 50-250, and 50-320 molds. The 45 also has a round ball cavity, got it because I knew half of it would work no matter what happened.

I was thinking $12 for 20 (roughly one pound) plus shipping which isn't trivial these days.

The 50-320 shot well out of my 1:48 Traditions barrel, I'm hoping the 45-200 will work out of my 1:60 old CVA barrel.

I also have a 450 grain mold for 50-100 for those messing with black powder cartridge rifles, bought it to size down for a .510 airgun.

So in short, are the R.E.A.L. bullets popular enough to spend time making? Or should I just cast what I need for my own use?
I have one of the .50-250 REAL molds. I am not impressed by them. While I get the appeal and the science behind them, the bullets are temperamental when casting. If you have rifling that is a little deeper than the bullet, you'll get gas blowby.

In short, it looks like the bullet bands/skirts would jump the rifling and act like an unpatched round ball.
 
I find using a leather over powder wad really helps with REAL bullets and hollow based mini's.
 
So in short, are the R.E.A.L. bullets popular enough to spend time making? Or should I just cast what I need for my own use?

Judging from the frequency of discussions on and the interest in the REAL bullets, id guess you would do quite a bit of business just with people wanting test packs.
 
I'm sitting here trying to decide if I start casting and selling some of these... What is the actual desire? I have 45-200, 50-250, and 50-320 molds. The 45 also has a round ball cavity, got it because I knew half of it would work no matter what happened.

I was thinking $12 for 20 (roughly one pound) plus shipping which isn't trivial these days.

The 50-320 shot well out of my 1:48 Traditions barrel, I'm hoping the 45-200 will work out of my 1:60 old CVA barrel.

I also have a 450 grain mold for 50-100 for those messing with black powder cartridge rifles, bought it to size down for a .510 airgun.

So in short, are the R.E.A.L. bullets popular enough to spend time making? Or should I just cast what I need for my own use?
I sell bullets from time to time. My advice is if you do it get a lead hardness tester if you are using lead that is not certified. If you are buying certified lead perfect.
If you use scrounge lead, lead from pipes, or flashing, xray, or wheel weight. You will need to make sure they are soft enough to get down the barrel.
Even lead that seems soft like lead pipe can have joints melted in. The solder is hard and will significantly increase the hardness. Then once they are aged they will be very difficult do get down the barrel.
 
Thanks, appreciate the advice. I have a set of pencils and the seller made a video showing around 5-6 BHN with similar. But I think I eventually want to get a better quality tester. For airgun it is very important to have pure soft lead because you are generally dealing with about 2000-2800 psi to get things moving. A 1% tin has been shown to help flow when casting and not increase hardness too much. So far I'm letting higher temperatures deal with flow because I've already had leading and hardness problems in one of my airguns (a 357 rifle). The nice thing about these REAL in 50 is I can size them down to my .510 airgun (Umarex Hammer) and get up around 500-600 foot pounds at the muzzle.
 
REAL bullets can be fine shooters! I personally suggest a lubed 1/8" veggie wad under the bullet. As all bullets go, some bores love them, some hate them. If you have to shoot them, hope your gun likes them.

They are solid performers on big game as well.
 
Judging from the frequency of discussions on and the interest in the REAL bullets, id guess you would do quite a bit of business just with people wanting test packs.
Judging from the frequency of discussions on and the interest in the REAL bullets, id guess you would do quite a bit of business just with people wanting test packs.
Judging from the frequency of discussions on and the interest in the REAL bullets, id guess you would do quite a bit of business just with people wanting test packs.
I’d take a test pack of 54 cal 300 grain if you made them.
 
I'm sitting here trying to decide if I start casting and selling some of these... What is the actual desire? I have 45-200, 50-250, and 50-320 molds. The 45 also has a round ball cavity, got it because I knew half of it would work no matter what happened.

I was thinking $12 for 20 (roughly one pound) plus shipping which isn't trivial these days.

The 50-320 shot well out of my 1:48 Traditions barrel, I'm hoping the 45-200 will work out of my 1:60 old CVA barrel.

I also have a 450 grain mold for 50-100 for those messing with black powder cartridge rifles, bought it to size down for a .510 airgun.

So in short, are the R.E.A.L. bullets popular enough to spend time making? Or should I just cast what I need for my own use?
Id donate $12 to the cause just to see how my rifle likes the 250's
 
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