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rebore questions

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Kentuckyjed

.45, .50, .62 cal.
MLF Supporter
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I picked up a really old French flintlock smoothbore/fowler type tapered barrel with a flat filed across the top ( neat old barrel) that is around 36 inches long. It has the typical rust in and on barrel so I soaked it in Evapo-rust for several days and it worked out nice, I got the breech plug out and found a rust ring where something was left over the years and thought rebore possibly. The barrel mics out at .580. I was thinking about getting a rebore to .615 , there is plenty of meat on the breech end but the muzzle end wall thickness is.059. My question is: would this be feasible and also what would be the best way of contacting Mr. Hoyt (phone, email, letter in the mail with pics?) to get a ballpark figure on the cost. I have about $70 in this barrel at the moment. Or should I just hone the barrel and go with the 24 gauge that it is. The only reason I was thinking boring it out was to clean up the bore plus have a 20 gauge.
Any help is graciously accepted and appreciated.
Thanks,
BZ
 
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I’d ream it till the pits are gone. I have no experience in honing but some swear by it. I’d worry about keeping the bore uniform with honing. I use adjustable reamers and the barrels look like new when done.
Thanks , what kind of adjustable reamers might you be talking about?
 
I did acquire some 80 grit and 220 grit lapping compound and thought about rigging up a slotted dowel with some crocus paper folded and slid in the slot then dipped in the lapping compound and either hand lapping or using a drill slowly.
 
Was planning on using this barrel for a fowler type project maybe work it into a fusil de chasse styled stock. It would be more like a fusil carbine with the short barrel.
 
Thanks , what kind of adjustable reamers might you be talking about?
IMG_1390.jpeg

You can see the reamers come in ranges. I get square tubing that fits the square end of the reamer. Then turn the square tubing by hand with a piece of wood that just fits over the square tubing. I use cutting oil. I put the barrel in one bench vise and in another I have a board with a hole drilled that just allows the square tubing to rotate. This aligns the reamer with the bore. From time to time I adjust the reamer bit by bit. Clean and inspect.
IMG_1392.jpeg
 
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View attachment 271055
You can see the reamers come in ranges. I get square tubing that fits the square end of the reamer. Then turn the square tubing by hand with a piece of wood that flips over the square tubing. I use cutting oil. I put the barrel in one bench vise and in another I have a board with a hole drilled that just allows the square tubing to rotate. This aligns the teamer with the bore. From time to time I adjust the reamer bit by bit. Clean and inspect.View attachment 271058
I like that plan, might just try it. Thanks for the info.
 
I picked up a really old French flintlock smoothbore/fowler type tapered barrel with a flat filed across the top ( neat old barrel) that is around 36 inches long. It has the typical rust in and on barrel so I soaked it in Evapo-rust for several days and it worked out nice, I got the breech plug out and found a rust ring where something was left over the years and thought rebore possibly. The barrel mics out at .580. I was thinking about getting a rebore to .615 , there is plenty of meat on the breech end but the muzzle end wall thickness is.059. My question is: would this be feasible and also what would be the best way of contacting Mr. Hoyt (phone, email, letter in the mail with pics?) to get a ballpark figure on the cost. I have about $70 in this barrel at the moment. Or should I just hone the barrel and go with the 24 gauge that it is. The only reason I was thinking boring it out was to clean up the bore plus have a 20 gauge.
Any help is graciously accepted and appreciated.
Thanks,
BZ
Is Evapo-Rust the same stuff as Naval Jelly?
 
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