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iwuzwhatiwuz

32 Cal.
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I received my Trade Rifle from Woodbury Outfitters today. I like the feel of the rifle and it sparks beautifully! To those who have a Lyman flintlock, what flint size do you use? I've read that 3/4 x 3/4 is ideal, but I've also seen people who swear by 5/8 x 3/4.

Thanks y'all!


 
I've always used 3/4 x 3/4 in my Trade rifle. The only modification I had to do on mine was to open up the touch hole a little to get good ignition, It has been very reliable since then.
 
Nice,I have owned two trade rifles and both had great accuracy. My first one tore out the bullseye at 100 yards right out of the box but the second one needed to have it's bore polished before it achieved the best accuracy, which is typical for Lyman barrels.
 
I ordered eight 3/4 x 3/4 English flints from Track of the Wolf tonight. Thanks! It sparks well with the American cut flint, I imagine it will spark all the better with a good English flint. I need to polish the trigger but overall its a good looking piece.
 
It's a fifty. I'll be mostly target shooting but I will use it to hunt. I'm looking at going on a hog hunt in Texas on a primitive weapons only ranch. Does anybody have experience with the Lee Improved Minie Ball? I want more "umpfh" for pigs and was thinking a 360 grain minie ball would be perfect.
 
I don't know about the lee bullets, But the Hornady 50 cal 385 gr. great plains bullets are real stoppers. I got a big Doe a few years back at and she didn't make it but a few yards.
 
iwuzwhatiwuz said:
It's a fifty. I'll be mostly target shooting but I will use it to hunt. I'm looking at going on a hog hunt in Texas on a primitive weapons only ranch. Does anybody have experience with the Lee Improved Minie Ball? I want more "umpfh" for pigs and was thinking a 360 grain minie ball would be perfect.
You need to stop thinking of your muzzle loader in terms of centerfire rifle performance. The patched round ball (PRB) kills game all out of proportion to what is indicated on paper but you must keep in mind it's limitations as far as range as well as shot placement. Your Trade Rifle should be very accurate using PRB along with the right powder charge and will not need any more power/"umph". Wild hogs are not bullet proof and a 50 caliber RB placed in the right spot is deadly in short order. I suggest you start with 50 grains of 3f powder, a .490 RB, .015-.018 thickness patch material either prelubed/pre-cut or find some 100% cotton mattress ticking at your local fabric store and after washing it, then lube with olive oil. Set your target at 50 yards and shoot three times, swabbing the bore after every shot. Then increase your powder charge by 5 grains and repeat until your groups get nice and tight. Your best powder charge should be around 1.5 times your caliber, or 75 grains but your rifle will tell you what it likes. Do not adjust or file your sights yet, you're just looking for an accurate amount of powder and PRB combination. Since this is a new Lyman barrel I also suggest that you use something like JB's bore compound after every range session and to expect to put about 100 shots through it before best accuracy is achieved. I can't stand the Lyman adjustable rear sight and always use the primitive buckhorn that they include, but to adjust the point of impact you will need to either drift the sight left or right using a brass punch or file down the front sight to raise POI. It's not as difficult as it sounds but I understand the anxiety when taking a file to your new rifle barrel. Just go slow and you'll have a wonderfully accurate pig killer in no time.
My last TR was so accurate that the barrel was used as the basis for a custom, cherry stocked plains rifle that just gets better with age.
 
Thanks bull3540. I noticed that the front sight is off to the right, Should I try and center it?
 
iwuzwhatiwuz said:
Thanks bull3540. I noticed that the front sight is off to the right, Should I try and center it?
If it is very noticably off to one side or the other then just center it the best you can, then don't adjust it again until you figure out the best load for it. If you notice that it is hitting the target off to the right but the front sight looks centered on the barrel then leave it alone for now. What you want to do is have only one variable to deal with right now, and that is the amount of powder you're using. Once you find out what your rifle "likes" then you start to change other variable, adjust the sights for point of impact, etc. Unless the front sight is just hanging off to one side I would leave it alone at this stage. This goes along with my other advice as to swabbing the bore with an alcohol dampened cleaning patch between every shot as doing that returns things to nearly the same as when you first started, therby eliminating one more varible. Now, this is by far not the only way of sighting in a new muzzle loader but too many times if you're new to muzzle loading and don't have someone experienced to take you to the range and show you how it's done, people get frustrated by the process, proclaim that muzzle loaders are messy, inaccurate weapons and we are better off using something more modern. Folks tend to start off with powder charges that are pushing maximum recommendations, make sudden, drastic changes to their sights and introduce more and more varibles without an understanding as to what effect those will have on accuracy which leads to frustration. This is magnified when starting off with a flintlock to a certain extent, although I don't think it is a major concern it does add to the learning curve. Fortunately your TR is a reliable, well built ML that will give you a lifetime of service.
If you haven't done so already, you may wish to get a range rod, short starter and a primer of some sort. These aren't absolutely required though, simply makes loading and cleaning easier. I will also offer to send you two strips of mattress ticking to use as shooting patches in case you can't find any locally. Send me a PM and let me know.
 
i couldn't agree more with that Texas fellow ... don't change the sights until the rifle has been settled into a good group with the best ball/patch/charge combination you can find...

only change one variable at a time; remember, you're woring with a resonant mechanism here, and if you change two (or more) things at once, you (a) won't know which change had the effect you wanted and (b) won't know what to do next.

by the way, if you don't already have a copy, i recommend you whip out your credit card and log onto Dutch Schoults' website, here:
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

this will set you back (if i remember correctly) about twenty bucks, and it will be the best twenty you've spent in some time.

Make good smoke!
 
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Thanks for the offer Bull! I like in Winston-Salem, NC so finding the pillow ticking shouldn't be an issue. The front sight is way off. The rear sight wasn't even installed when I opened the box. I think Ill try to center it before I shoot it. I reload centerfire ammo so I understand the importance of limiting variables. I will check out Dutch Schoults' website posthaste.
 
I suggest you do consider muzzleloaders as compared to centerfire expanding bullet performance. Bullets are bullets. So, look at the lead round ball. It weighs what it weighs, whatever the diameter. Take a .490" ball for example. It's gonna weigh about 177 grains. Maybe a smidgin more with the sprue depending on who made the mold. So let's round it off to 180 grains. If you were shooting a thirty caliber that would be a heavy for deer. But with a .490" ball you're hitting them with a bullet that's already over 50% larger in diameter when it connects. What is going to happen just isn't a mystery. Make the ball bigger and you get more of the same.
Range is the limiting factor. Easy to see why 1800's militaries liked to chunk big'uns with small charges, trading off velocity and flat trajectory for shear smack down and manageable recoil.
 
iwuzwhatiwuz said:
Thanks for the offer Bull! I like in Winston-Salem, NC so finding the pillow ticking shouldn't be an issue. The front sight is way off. The rear sight wasn't even installed when I opened the box. I think Ill try to center it before I shoot it. I reload centerfire ammo so I understand the importance of limiting variables. I will check out Dutch Schoults' website posthaste.
Ah, now I see. The factory may have left off the sight so you can choose either the fixed or adjustable as they come with both. As I said before, I can't stand the adjustable so I always put the primitive Buckhorn on my Lyman rifles. Do center the front sight and then go sight it in, have a good time at it too.
 
I wouldn't start with 50gn powder if you intend to hunt, I would start with 70gn. You will need a stiffish powder charge to do your best work on pigs. The Lee REAL conical may be worth a look also.

With my GPH barrel I get my conicals printing right next to my roundballs with a lighter (55gn) charge which allows me to do target and meat or varmint hunting with it as well. Great if you can work out different loads to achieve different goals without having to move your sights, then after you shoot the barrel in you can put a non adjustable primitive sight on and leave it alone.

BTW It is a great looking rifle.
 
Gander Mt in Greensboro, NC has flintlock starter kits for $45. They come with a flask, priming flask, powder measure, vent pick and short starter. A good deal for the beginner like myself. I also bought 2 yards of pillow ticking from Jo-Anne's fabric. How should I cut the fabric? Also if I use olive oil how much and how do y'all apply it? Thanks!
 
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