Recommend a reliable flintlock rifle

[Rusty Gunn]

Hello, new to the forum and looking for a moderate price flint lock to get back into blackpowder paper shooting. I have two T/C percussion rifles and want to get into paper and target shooting with a flint rifle.
I am prepared to spend 500 - 800 $. What do you recommend both new and used.
Thanks
Rusty

 

[rusty]

you can't go wrong with a Lyman Great Plains Rifle or a Pedersoli..good luck.

 

[SgtErv]

Rusty is right. They're both quality production guns. With Pedersoli you have some more choices on style, but the GPR is a fine looking gun. I have a version of the GPR - the lock can be tricky but once you learn that one you'll be able to get the hang of darn near any other lock I'd imagine.

Since you've got some experience with black powder, you'd also probably know what to look for in a used gun. I've seen some in the classifieds here occasionally that are nicely priced.

Welcome to the dark side!

 

[Commodore Swab]

This is why I created a reliability test for flintlocks. It seems people have 1 or 2 opinions as to a flintlock. Either its wonderful or junk.

For info on the "test" try this.
http://www.swabsarmory.com/reliability-test.html

 

[Grenadier1758]

So far, everyone has made a pretty good recommendation . You want a rifle tahe has a lock capable of throwing a lot of sparks into a pan of powder.

Also remember that no matter how good your lock is, you can't expect to have a reliable flint lock experience unless you use a real black powder. Even the best of the substitutes have proven to be unreliable when used in a flint lock.

The first step to a reliable flint lock is to use real black powder. Use GOEX, Wano, Scheutzen, KIK, Graf's, or Swiss.

 

[Rusty Gunn]

Thank you for the help. I just ordered the Lyman Plains Rifle 50 cal.
The wait begins. RG :grin:
I do use Goex for my cowboy action guns, need to get some 4F

 

[BrownBear]

One thing to know about flintlocks- after getting a reliable rifle, you'll need to hone your own techniques to match the rifle. In my experience with flinters (including both Lyman and Pedersoli- good choices), it's as much about technique as mechanics. Call it half shooter and half gun.

 

[Onojutta]

Lyman Trade Rifle is also a good choice. A little shorter and lighter than the GPR, and it is trimmed with brass furnishings, which look better IMO.

 

[Grenadier1758]

You don't really need 4f, the same powder you use for the main charge will work for the pan.

 

[Zonie]

+ 1 Grenadier.

 

[SgtErv]

And to something in regards to the issue of priming...

Save your money on a priming horn or flask. Just get a decent horn. My two cents. Most end up priming with their main powder horn. I did; one gets the hang of it quickly when you realize that priming isn't so much an exact science as it is putting in enough to infinite the main charge but not too much to create a huge flash. It simplifies things. More than s few threads on here on that subject.

 

[Rusty Gunn]

Thanks for the info. Was wondering about needing 4F. BP isn't easy to come by here and always good to save money.
RG

 

[Gene L]

You don't really need 4f, the same powder you use for the main charge will work for the pan.

I think you don't "need" 4F, as in "it wont work if you use 3F," but I can't see a single disadvantage to using it. Except needing a priming flask to carry it in. And it is faster, the test of which was posted in another thread. As I've said before, as a flintlock neophyte I can tell a difference although many tell me I can't.

 

[Walks with fire]

I own several that would fall in the price range you spoke of and are very good rifles.

I have a TC PA Hunter 1/66 twist .50 caliber that shoots very well and is very reliable with the newer design lock. It's one of my favorite rifles. A used one in good condition would probably go for 400 bucks. I have a second stock that I have a GM .50 1/70 twist drop-in barrel on that is very good with a bit stronger charges.

I also have a Lyman Deerstalker in .54 that is a very good rifle that went for 450 bucks new a few years back. Great little rifle for deer hunting.

For paper punching any rifle will work but a .40 or .45 caliber would be my choice for that. I would look around for a good used model to start with.

 

[Albanyco]

I second the Lyman trade rifle. It is rugged and dependable, shoulders and points great. Get it in .54, you will not be disappointed.

 

[jamieorr]

+1 on the Trade Rifle, I love mine.

For reliability. throw away the sawn flint that comes with the rifle and get some real flints. We were shooting yesterday and had a series of misfires with an almost new sawn flint, changed to a proper flint and had no more trouble. I knew better, but was too cheap to throw out the unused sawn flint.

Jamie

 

[Capt. Jas.]

You don't really need 4f, the same powder you use for the main charge will work for the pan.

I think you don't "need" 4F, as in "it wont work if you use 3F," but I can't see a single disadvantage to using it. Except needing a priming flask to carry it in. And it is faster, the test of which was posted in another thread. As I've said before, as a flintlock neophyte I can tell a difference although many tell me I can't.

One disadvantage I have found with 4f is in moist hunting conditions, turning the prime into cake

 

[MSW]

+1 on the Trade Rifle, I love mine.

For reliability. throw away the sawn flint that comes with the rifle and get some real flints. We were shooting yesterday and had a series of misfires with an almost new sawn flint, changed to a proper flint and had no more trouble. I knew better, but was too cheap to throw out the unused sawn flint.

Jamie

what that fellow said!!! for the life of me I cannot understand why flintlock gunmakers insist on sending unsuspecting shooters those God-awful sawn agate flints. In my experience, they just flat don't work. This only frustrates people, who would otherwise enjoy the sport.

Luckily for me, when I brought my first flinter to the line for the first time, there was someone who told me "here, put one of these in your lock." (as a result, I always have a spare flint, in case I run across a 'newbie' trying to get sparks out of an agate P.o.S)

I don't know if Rich Pierce is still knapping. If he is, you should get as many of his flints as you can afford. They aren't pretty, but they spark like crazy - a tremendous buy if you can get it. Otherwise, get the English black flints from Track of the Wolf. They can help you pick out the right size. You can get french amber flints if you want. Much discussion about their performance relative to black, but in my experience, they are no worse and no better, just cooler looking. If you want to pay for a little extra bling, by all means go for it: these are your hard- earned, over- taxed, God- entrusted dollars, and you should spend them as you see fit.

As regards leather or lead flint wraps, I would stay with leather for now. Some swear by lead, and some will tell you that lead wraps will ruin your lock, make your dog run away from home, and cause your private parts to shrivel up. I've tried both in my T/C Renegade, and found no substantial difference in performance, so I went back to leather. (For the record, my dog is still here.)

 

[PaulTBarton]

I use FFFg Goex for load and prime. Works every time.

 

[Old Sarge]

I second the fff for load and prime in my GM 1:70 32" drop in for my TC Hawken...works just fine