If your rifle is a flint lock, I will recommend postponing your trip to the range until you have some real black powder. Pyrodex is notable for being a very poor performer if you can even get it to ignite.My projects move with glacial slowness. But...I think I am finally headed to the range with this gun tomorrow. I have accumulated 3 sizes of balls. .389, .395, and .400. I have patching in .010, .015, .020, and pillow ticking at .018. I am going to shoot Pyrodex P fff at first. I ordered the gauges suggested by Dusty Traveler just because I like to fool with that sort of thing. The gauges about the same price as a couple of packets of patches. The bore is .400 to the nearest 3 places. Green mountain barrel. So...what combo does that indicate I should start with? I am thinking the .395 balls and the .015 patches. I drilled a ball and tested that combo. It starts tight but seems okay. Patches are wonderlube. I got a red dot mounted for this testing because I am old and can not see well enough to compare loads with the open sights or the veneer peep that this gun will wear eventually.
Yep. I ran out of black a while back and nobody around here sells it. So I took my .45 flint canoe gun out a while back for some range time with pyro. Many failures to fire. I think I got it to touch off twice but no telling how many times I had to pick and prime to get those two shots. So the flintlocks are all riding the gun safe until I buy or can make the real stuff. Quite a bummer.If your rifle is a flint lock, I will recommend postponing your trip to the range until you have some real black powder. Pyrodex is notable for being a very poor performer if you can even get it to ignite.
Once you get some 3Fg real black powder such as Schuetzen or GOEX, I would start with a ball 0.010" under the bore diameter or your 0.389" ball. Use a patch that compresses to you groove depth +0.005", probably the 0.015" patch. If your maybe prelubed patches are old, I recommend some new, unlubricated patches to be damply lubricated with a mix of dish soap and water. The initial powder charge of 35 grains measured by volume is a good start. Look for the fired patches to see if there are signs of burn through or patch cutting and report back on what your results are.
Those are called "small hole gages" and there are two different styles - one is the full round sphere as shown and the other style is the "half sphere style". Bothe will do the same job but I like the full sphere style better. I find it easier to use.Dusty, where did you find those bore gauges?
I found my ball gauges in my father's tool box when I inherited it. I have seen the ball gauges for sale on Amazon and Ebay.Dusty, where did you find those bore gauges?
Thanks, I saw that. I'm pretty sure they're junk, but wanted to try them out for a few projects.@TDM, be aware that these ball gauges are maxed out at about 0.500" plus a little. My father's tool maker's gauges gets me up to about 0.540".
Good to hear.No, the ball gauges I got from Amazon are not "junk". The work fine. They are limited to .50 inches though.
I’ve got expensive, as well as inexpensive ball gauges. Snap gauges too in both prices. Both require a bit practice to develop the “feel” and the transfer to your mic. You’ll be surprised how often you find yourself using them. Well worth having in your kit.Good to hear.
Alot of target shooters use that load. Green mountain barrels seem to like itI’m gonna openly display my ignorance, but wouldn’t a dead on .40 ball leave no room for a patch? Or would it just be really, really tight and hard to start and get seated?
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