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Red’s Incredible Traditions Kentucky Build: Probably not what you would have done…

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Phil Coffins said:
I did one of those kits and maybe you will find something useful for your build.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/traditions-kit-modified-build.112396/
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Hey Phil!
I’ve already studied your build. Enjoyed it, and will be referring to it regularly as I go along. It was interesting to see someone who had built finer rifles jump on one of these lower end kits.
Thanks for the link. Now I don’t have to go dig it up.
-Red, too lazy to use the search function…
 
OP

If the difference in wood grain bothers you, there is some historical evidence of painted long arms.

There is a period correct cranberry color that you see in lots of movies. The Patriot and Signs come to mind. A darkish orange also looks very nice.

Here are some Clay Smith examples. Granted thery're Trade Guns. But would look just as nice on a Kentuckyish rifle.

Food for thought.
 

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longcruise said:
Just a couple things. Take everything i say for what you think it's worth. .02 might be overpricing it!!

A basic rule, or better stated "fact" is that the hardware and barrel selected determine the shape. So, in order to thin the stock around the barrel you will have to reshape the nosecap. Otherwise your entire forestock from the lock panel forward will have to fit with the "as issued" shape of the nosecap. So, decide the shape (architecture) of the forward portion of the stock that you want and then shape the nosecap to it. You can probably best just leave the nosecap untouched and re shape it when the stock suits you. Clear as mud I'm sure! 😌

Finishing with BLO seems to be much more popular now than it was during the historical period of the longrifle. The drying times defy practicality. Many of the old guns appear to have been finished with varnish as made by violin makers of day. My suggestion is to research those varnish recipes and recreate them carefully documented here to save me the time and trouble of doing it myself. 😅

The ultimate practical present day finish is probably Birchwood Casey True Oil. Sold in small quantities that is more than enough for several stocks. It's linseed oil adjusted to act like a finish should. Usually dry in 24 hours but +/- depending on climate.

So, there you are. Subsequent comments will both amplify and destroy my suggestions bringing you to the point of confusion and regret and ultimately driving you into a dark place making you safe from us Internet Monsters 👻
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Hey longcruise!
Thanks for the info! I’ll go you 50% better and value it at 3 cents, lol!
Was planning on reshaping the nose cap, based on one of the builds I saw on here. Can’t remember which one, but they made their own nose cap with part of the original, and a sheet of brass… I probably won’t go that far.
And now you get me reguessing myself in the finish. Thanks a pant load!
-Red, dazed and confused…
 
64Springer said:
OP

If the difference in wood grain bothers you, there is some historical evidence of painted long arms.

There is a period correct cranberry color that you see in lots of movies. The Patriot and Signs come to mind. A darkish orange also looks very nice.

Here are some Clay Smith examples. Granted thery're Trade Guns. But would look just as nice on a Kentuckyish rifle.

Food for thought.
Click to expand...
I don’t know about painting it… hadn’t even considered that as an option. Will dig in to it, but will probably go with my original idea of staining the stock a bit darker in front of the lock so as to give it a natural break between the grain of the back half, and the grain of the front…
But the wrist on that third picture… I love how they extended it so long. Will look in to that for sure.
-Red, never knowing where I’m going…
 
Panama Red said:
I don’t know about painting it… hadn’t even considered that as an option. Will dig in to it, but will probably go with my original idea of staining the stock a bit darker in front of the lock so as to give it a natural break between the grain of the back half, and the grain of the front…
But the wrist on that third picture… I love how they extended it so long. Will look in to that for sure.
-Red, never knowing where I’m going…
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How about faux striping it? Mike Nesbitt did an article in muzzleloader and Ethan Yazel a video on his channel
 
sturmkatze said:
How about faux striping it? Mike Nesbitt did an article in muzzleloader and Ethan Yazel a video on his channel
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I watched a video on it. Guy did a decent job of it. I figured I’d wait until I get an actual piece of curly maple… this one is for practicing a few other things. Like filing this stock down… sheesh!
-Red, frustrated with files and such…
 
Look up the various threads Dave Persons has on stock shaping. And take your time . I had a cva I just painted the stock black, and I thought it looked fine.
 
64Springer said:
And check and double check the height of that nose/comb in relation to your head and how you see the sights.

I and many others find that area to be too tall. Requiring the head to be tilted while cramming your cheek into the stock.

I've taken mine down to the point of almost losing that nose entirely.
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Thanks! When I reassemble it, I will definitely check it. There was a point in the shaping of this that I thought, “Well, screwed that up! Lopsided stock, here we go!”
-Red, slightly lopsided himself…
 
Sam squanch said:
Look up the various threads Dave Persons has on stock shaping. And take your time . I had a cva I just painted the stock black, and I thought it looked fine.
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They make a black stain that may get a part in all of this. Depends on how dark I want the dark areas. Hoping to achieve it with a deep brown…
-Red, always the optimist…
 
bldtrailer said:
have fun with the build (the lock is the weakest part of the gun I replaced it with the L&R, and a trigger pinnedView attachment 217850 through the stock)View attachment 217851View attachment 217853100 yrd sight in 65grns swiss 3f 490 ball #40 drill cloth tallow lubeView attachment 217855
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I know I’ve seen this one! You are one of the few I saw that left the brass spacer, and had it come out looking good. This thread almost convinced me to leave the brass, but I’m thinking it looks good on here because of all the other brass adornments. They just make it “fit”.
Nice work! And, the L&R lock is in the plans if this one doesn’t perform. I’m going to give it a chance before replacing it. Hoping I got a “good” one…
Nice shooting too! I’ve got to up my game on iron sights. If it will shoot that right, I’ll be tickled.
-Red, a glass half full kind of guy…
 
Panama Red said:
I know I’ve seen this one! You are one of the few I saw that left the brass spacer, and had it come out looking good. This thread almost convinced me to leave the brass, but I’m thinking it looks good on here because of all the other brass adornments. They just make it “fit”.
Nice work! And, the L&R lock is in the plans if this one doesn’t perform. I’m going to give it a chance before replacing it. Hoping I got a “good” one…
Nice shooting too! I’ve got to up my game on iron sights. If it will shoot that right, I’ll be tickled.
-Red, a glass half full kind of guy…
Click to expand...
One good thing is, it’s wood. If you really mess it up, you can get a new piece more to your liking
 

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