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Red’s Incredible Traditions Kentucky Build: Probably not what you would have done…

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Started browning the barrel today. Using Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution. Picture is first coat after 3 hours. Applying second coat now.
And, took someone else’s idea on the trigger slop. I started inletting it deeper, and realized just how deep I would have to go to get it to stop rattling around, so I went with the ink pen spring method. So far, I like this pretty well. Very light take up to a solid wall.
-Red, finding solutions is my middle name… names? Yeah, names…
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Panama Red said:
And, are you SURE this is a CVA? I keep zooming in trying to find the joint. Those stripes really blend that in nice. Love this little rifle!
-Red, drooling on his phone a lot lately…
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Yes it is a two piece CVA stock just like your rifle stock. The faux striping does a good job of hiding that wood joint. But you can see it in some of the full sun photos I took on the back fence. As I said earlier I wish I had used a darker color for the stripes because they kind of washed out once I started covering with the true oil finish
 
Faux striping actually goes back a long time, Henry Lemans did it a lot and is quite common on his rifles. Before I did it on the gun, I practiced a little. As an artist I was trying to keep the stripes running in the same direction mostly, but varied line width and length and running them together. A real effort was made to not make them look regular or all the same. I think that was what makes it look so convincing.
 
davidmc62 said:
Faux striping actually goes back a long time, Henry Lemans did it a lot and is quite common on his rifles. Before I did it on the gun, I practiced a little. As an artist I was trying to keep the stripes running in the same direction mostly, but varied line width and length and running them together. A real effort was made to not make them look regular or all the same. I think that was what makes it look so convincing.
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You did a really nice join on the stripes. I would definitely have to practice that a bit before putting on a stock.
 
Base color was LMF nut brown. The stripes were done with Feibings medium brown leather dye painted on with a artist brush not too big or too small cant recall the number at the moment
 
64Springer said:
The more I see that stock the more I'm convinced they gave you a Birch back end and Beech front end.

You'll need to go dark dark to hide that grain difference.
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That’s the plan… at this point…. You’ve seen how wishy washy I am, lol!
-Red, decidedly indecisive…
 
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Panama Red said:
Does that drop straight in, or do I have to do some inletting?
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The L&R lock had a pointed end towards the back of it and I filled it off. Had a mark on the inside of the lock plate that gave you a line where to remove the metal up to, Also a little wood removal on the inside where the sear was hitting it.
 
This is what I did to my Traditions Kentucky flintlock rifle. Browned the barrel, it came blued. Removed the factory finish and used boiled linseed oil and replaced the lock with a L&R replacement lock. I like how it came out and that's all that matters.
 

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APG said:
This is what I did to my Traditions Kentucky flintlock rifle. Browned the barrel, it came blued. Removed the factory finish and used boiled linseed oil and replaced the lock with a L&R replacement lock. I like how it came out and that's all that matters.
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Can you tell us if those flint versions have the same patent/false breech as the percussion versions?

I hate that design. I think I'd hate it more on a flinter.

Thanks.
 
Panama Red, I see you took the suggestion to push that entry pipe transition back a bit. Good Choice, I think it helps the illusion that the rifle is now much longer(if only in the barrel section). Keep going Pard' yer on a roll!
 
davidmc62 said:
Panama Red, I see you took the suggestion to push that entry pipe transition back a bit. Good Choice, I think it helps the illusion that the rifle is now much longer(if only in the barrel section). Keep going Pard' yer on a roll!
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Yeah man! I loved that idea! I took off two inches total. Now I just have to thin that fore grip down some more. And, as someone mentioned in here earlier, my glue joint failed. I used gorilla wood glue, but it let go clean as a whistle. I had clamped it up while filing down that entry pipe transition, and when I was done, I noticed a hairline separation. So, I gently worked it the rest of the way apart, cleaned everything up, and used JB Weld to epoxy it back together. Slathered up the metal rods and everything…
On my third coat of browning. Barrel is looking pretty good, except a few minor areas. I’m figuring three or four more coats and it will look fantastic.
-Red, no longer trusting Gorilla Wood Glue…
 
yea I had a bugger of a time joining the two parts also, ended up using some fluted wood cabinet dowel pins from home depot. Had to drill out the stock pin holes to match the dowel size and used Elmers wood glue and slathered it up good. Messy but effective after I figured out how to apply the pressure I needed to set the joint. Actually like you, I had to do it twice before it took. So far it is still holding(he says with crossed fingers).
 
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When repairing structural cracks or making butt joints in stock forearms I avoid the wood glues and Gorilla Glue, though great adhesives. If the crack or seam opens up again from stress these glues will not adhere to the old cured glue. You generally have to remove all of the old glue from the joint, a real PIA. Accuraglass or similar on the other hand will adhere to old repairs and allow you to build up the repair area if needed. Just what I have experienced.

Here are photographs of a repair I did to a 100 year old stock (it was made in 1917). Little bit different to say the least, but the concept uses multiple small thread rods for maximum strength and grip. I was able to square up the splice area and add a new piece of wood (it was difficult to get a close match). The splice is hidden under the metal ring in the second photo, but it’s very strong and the stock has seen about 2500 high power rifle rounds, among other abuses, and is as good as new.
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Now if you never knock the stock over without the barrel in place or stress it in some other way (you have or will slot the pin holes in the barrel tenons, correct) you can get away with less reenforcement, I’ve just reach the point of wanting to do things once. Over killing a bear isn’t a bad thing, but under killing one sure can be bad.
 

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