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Reducing trigger pull ??
- Thread starter ss1
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You must be talking about firing the gun without first setting the rear "set trigger".
If you are speaking of the pull on the front trigger with the rear trigger "set", that has nothing to do with the sear or the sear spring.
If your speaking of firing with a unset rear trigger, IMO, there isn't much you can do to help the pull beyond polishing the sear and tumber which you say you have already done.
IMO, trying to reduce the tension on the coil sear spring these TC guns have is a risky move unless your a qualified gunsmith.
(Pulling out my soapbox)
The set trigger found on most current rifles which can be fired without setting the rear trigger is a poor compromise between having a good single trigger gun and having one with a set trigger that takes 1/2 of an ounce to fire it.
This is just the nature of the beast because the front trigger pivot is located so far in front of the sear arm.
This location gives a poor ratio in the amount of force your finger has to give to release the sear.
zonie
If you are speaking of the pull on the front trigger with the rear trigger "set", that has nothing to do with the sear or the sear spring.
If your speaking of firing with a unset rear trigger, IMO, there isn't much you can do to help the pull beyond polishing the sear and tumber which you say you have already done.
IMO, trying to reduce the tension on the coil sear spring these TC guns have is a risky move unless your a qualified gunsmith.
(Pulling out my soapbox)
The set trigger found on most current rifles which can be fired without setting the rear trigger is a poor compromise between having a good single trigger gun and having one with a set trigger that takes 1/2 of an ounce to fire it.
This is just the nature of the beast because the front trigger pivot is located so far in front of the sear arm.
This location gives a poor ratio in the amount of force your finger has to give to release the sear.
zonie
paulvallandigham
Passed On
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For safety, most people want a trigger pull that exceeds the weight of the gun, just in case you violate safety rules and put your finger on the trigger before it is safe to shoot. For a rifle that would mean a trigger pull of as much as 10 lbs. Most people are better trained, and a trigger pull that will not have you accidentally firing a gun when your fingers are cold, and/ or your adrenalin is pumping because you have finally seen a game animal within range of your gun is more desireable. 4.5-5 lbs in trigger pull weight satisfies these requirements. The set trigger can reduce the trigger pull to whatever you are comforable with, and is safe with the gun. Test the set trigger, and, for that matter, the standard trigger pull by cocking the hammer, and giving the gun a good smack on all 4 sides of the stock and barrel. If the sear engagement holds it is safe to use.
With a smoothe trigger, a trigger pull weight of 5 lbs. is not too heavy on a hunting rifle. The set trigger allows you to do some fine trigger work when sighting in the gun at the bench, using both a front and back rest to steady the gun. For off-hand shooting, even with a standing rest, you should use the standard trigger pull, unless you have put in hours of practice using the set trigger under such conditions. My set trigger on my rifle has a little creep in it before it lets off at under 1/2 lb. Even with that, I use the standard trigger, rather than the set, when hunting deer. I have hunted on too cold a day, for two many hours before seeing a deer to take a chance that my finger can even feel the trigger. With only one shot realistically available, I do not want to miss an opportunity by trying to shoot my set trigger when I can hardly feel anything.
With a smoothe trigger, a trigger pull weight of 5 lbs. is not too heavy on a hunting rifle. The set trigger allows you to do some fine trigger work when sighting in the gun at the bench, using both a front and back rest to steady the gun. For off-hand shooting, even with a standing rest, you should use the standard trigger pull, unless you have put in hours of practice using the set trigger under such conditions. My set trigger on my rifle has a little creep in it before it lets off at under 1/2 lb. Even with that, I use the standard trigger, rather than the set, when hunting deer. I have hunted on too cold a day, for two many hours before seeing a deer to take a chance that my finger can even feel the trigger. With only one shot realistically available, I do not want to miss an opportunity by trying to shoot my set trigger when I can hardly feel anything.
Also...it's not uncommon to find a TC Hawken, Renegade, etc where the wood has not been properly relieved in the area where the sear bar travels, causing the sear to rub on wood and making the trigger feel too heavy...especially if an older stock has had a new style sear installed in the lock or a new lock installed altogether.
But in either case, when the lock is removed you’ll see the round hole that’s drilled into the stock that the sear bar slides down into when the lock is installed...sometimes these holes are not drilled quite deep enough, or large enough in diameter...and the end of the sear bar can drag against the backwall of wood, and/or as the sear bar raises up, it can just barely contact the side of the hole if it's too small in diameter.
Lastly, the tip of the front trigger itself can contact wood as it nears the very top of it’s travel making the front trigger seem heavy as it’s pushing against wood at the very moment it’s trying to push the sear bar.
It’s easy to use a slightly larger diameter drill bit to enlarge the hole that the sear bar slides into, and let the tip of the bit barely bottom out against the back wall of wood to relieve a tiny surface amount to ensure the end of the sear bar does not contact wood...or, just enlarge the diameter of the hole, then use a grinder on the end of the sear bar to shorten it 1/8” as there’s plenty of excess length on TC’s sear bars.
Then looking in from the trigger mortise, you can also get up in there to gently relieve the wood in the area of the front trigger travel to ensure it is not contacting any wood at the top of it’s travel...(I use a dremel tool)...takes longer to explain this than it does to do[url] it...in[/url] addition to the sear & tumbler polishing, I’ve improved a couple of very heavy front triggers on TC Hawkens this way by just giving them free travel.
But after having said all that, I’ve become a dedicated set trigger user anyway...deer / squirrel hunting gives plenty of time to slip off a glove and use the set triggers which for me, are always more accurate than a front trigger no matter how smooth I might get them.
But in either case, when the lock is removed you’ll see the round hole that’s drilled into the stock that the sear bar slides down into when the lock is installed...sometimes these holes are not drilled quite deep enough, or large enough in diameter...and the end of the sear bar can drag against the backwall of wood, and/or as the sear bar raises up, it can just barely contact the side of the hole if it's too small in diameter.
Lastly, the tip of the front trigger itself can contact wood as it nears the very top of it’s travel making the front trigger seem heavy as it’s pushing against wood at the very moment it’s trying to push the sear bar.
It’s easy to use a slightly larger diameter drill bit to enlarge the hole that the sear bar slides into, and let the tip of the bit barely bottom out against the back wall of wood to relieve a tiny surface amount to ensure the end of the sear bar does not contact wood...or, just enlarge the diameter of the hole, then use a grinder on the end of the sear bar to shorten it 1/8” as there’s plenty of excess length on TC’s sear bars.
Then looking in from the trigger mortise, you can also get up in there to gently relieve the wood in the area of the front trigger travel to ensure it is not contacting any wood at the top of it’s travel...(I use a dremel tool)...takes longer to explain this than it does to do[url] it...in[/url] addition to the sear & tumbler polishing, I’ve improved a couple of very heavy front triggers on TC Hawkens this way by just giving them free travel.
But after having said all that, I’ve become a dedicated set trigger user anyway...deer / squirrel hunting gives plenty of time to slip off a glove and use the set triggers which for me, are always more accurate than a front trigger no matter how smooth I might get them.
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That's the adjustment to control the amount of pressure needed for the set trigger operation.ss1 said:
As you know, TC's manual says to set the trigger while at half cock, turn the adjusting screw in until the trigger just barely 'breaks', then back it out a full turn...that works fine enough for hunting but at the range, I make mine a little more sensive by backing the adjusting screw out only a half turn...but for hunting, I use the full turn to avoid an AD while finding the trigger with my finger tip...
"...paint the screw heads with fingernail polish..."
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And DON'T use the glowing pink! It clashes so with the brass parts.
Just funnin. Actually, it's a good idea but if I were doing it, I would get the clear polish. :grin:
zonie
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And DON'T use the glowing pink! It clashes so with the brass parts.
Just funnin. Actually, it's a good idea but if I were doing it, I would get the clear polish. :grin:
zonie
Loctite makes a blue thread locker that wicks. It's perfect for the weight adjuster screw. Once you get it set, you just put a dab on the screw and it wicks into the threads and locks it nicely.
I just lost the screw from my Traditions Trapper because I was in the process of adjusting and shooting and forgot to apply the loctite.
I just lost the screw from my Traditions Trapper because I was in the process of adjusting and shooting and forgot to apply the loctite.
Charles/NM
36 Cal.
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The best way to lighten a T/C Hawken unset trigger I've found it to shoot it for 30 years, lol. I had to replace the sear on mine a few years ago when the sear bar broke off. I didn't know about T/C's lifetime warrenty at the time and spend $12 at TOTW for a new one. I would guess my unset trigger pull is around 2 1/2 to 3 pounds - less than I like it to be.
Charles/NM
36 Cal.
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Drug out my trigger pull scale and measured the old Hawken.
Unset it's just a ounce or two under 3 pounds. Set it's 14 ounces - a little too light for my likes but I never use it set unless I'm shooting from the bench - it's OK for that.
BTW, I checked my records and found I bought the new sear from Dixie Gun Works, not Track of the Wolf.
Unset it's just a ounce or two under 3 pounds. Set it's 14 ounces - a little too light for my likes but I never use it set unless I'm shooting from the bench - it's OK for that.
BTW, I checked my records and found I bought the new sear from Dixie Gun Works, not Track of the Wolf.
