Regular misfires with Pietta .36 revolver

[Gsyme]

Thanks very much for the new replies to this old post, all. The cautions about the possibility of stuck ball when the gun goes pop, rather than boom, is well taken. I will be very careful about that in the future.

Since my original post I cleaned the gun again thoroughly and used a nipple pick to make absolutely sure I had cleaned the chambers and the tiny flash hole (if that is what it is called) well. The next outing I didn't have any misfires. It was a short session of only five shots, though, and I am still nervous that it will happen again.

I haven't been able to find any No. 10 caps in stock anywhere, so I ordered some slix shot nipples which reportedly work well with both No. 10 and No. 11. I haven't installed them yet. Maybe I'll wait to see if any of you experienced shooters have experiences with them.

I am less interested in perfect period authenticity in this revolver than in functionality. I am looking for the type of reliability as described by .36 Rooster. Thanks again, all.
- G

 

[Red Owl]

Let's analyze this. As I understand the caps always go off, so it is not the caps, even if they don't fit that well on the nipple. What I am saying is some caps aren't firmly on the rim of the nipple so the first time the hammer falls on the cap it just pushes the cap on to the nipple but it doesn't explode. The second try works okay BUT you say that is NOT the situation. The caps always go off but the charge in the chamber does not, you need that second cap. So, to me, it sounds like fouling is plugging up the nipple. The first blast/cap doesn't ignite the chamber but probably pushes some of the fouling forward so that the second cap works okay.
If I were to recommend anything it would be to buy a new set of better grade nipples, "Hot Shot" etc. That ought to stop the fouling problem and you should be okay. Like others, in fifty years of percussion revolver shooting I only had a problem one time and after I got a new set of improved nipples- no more problem. Always use real black powder if you can get it.

 

[Gsyme]

Thanks Red Owl. I am set to try exactly what you suggest. I've been using 3F goex black powder too.

 

[Red Owl]

We are all learning from one another. If the new set of nipples solves the problem please post on this thread so we can all know that the new set of nipples worked.
By the way- the nipples used on the percussion revolvers during the Civil War had much larger flash hole diameters. The blow back caused excessive erosion however the larger hole insured ignition- so such a situation can occur.

 

[Gsyme]

Well, life happens and often it doesn't include time for shooting, but I finally did try out the slix shot replacement nipples on my .36 Pietta revolver. I only had time for about 10 shots but they all went off without a hitch. No misfires like I was having every other chamber, before. I'll need to shoot more than that to say for sure that my problem is solved but it seems promising.

I was using 3F Goex and CCI No. 11 caps. (couldn't find any No. 10s but the Slix are advertised as working well with No. 11s and they do feel like they fit well.)

The flash holes on these Slix nipples do look significantly larger than those on the factory nipples. Not sure if they are as big as those on the original Civil War era guns you mention, Red Owl, but the difference is noticeable.

Incidentally, has anyone here tried a chrony on their BP revolver? I am a nerd and did so today. I got wildly different velocities, from 600 up to 938 fps. I am guessing this was mostly because my powder measure is not very accurate. It's clearly not made for getting fine differences from 15 to 20 grains. At these small charges 5 grains is a 25% difference.

 

[Bunk]

...At one time, I was firing a pietta navy so often for 3-4 hour sessions that I wore out its parts...I had the same problems you are talking about at first; but it stopped.

Here is what you need to know:

Use #10 caps. That is the proper size for the nipples on a pietta navy. You should also ensure those caps are seated firmly down flush for a tight fit using a dowel or flat tipped ball starter. Press down hard on each cap with the dowel and keep the muzzle in a safe direction. It will not cause a discharge... If you don't like this step, and are handy enough, you can hone your nipples a bit with a file so that you can seat your caps well enough with your thumb. Either of these practices along with #10 caps will eliminate 100 percent of all misfires on your first 2 cylinders. But that's only on the first two cylinders...

That's because on a pietta navy your nipples need to be removed and cleaned after every 2-3 cylinders. This is where the other misfires come from. For whatever reason, it seems to be that external (not internal) fouling on the nipple cones , is what causes the remaining misfires once one is using proper fitting and properly seated caps. One shortcut to removing and cleaning is flossing them on the gun with a wet and then a dry length of course yarn. It has worked for me quite well.

The other alternative is to purchase 2 or more extra sets of nipples and swap them out with a clean set on every 3rd cylinder. I prefer this method, and that's what I do. Just clean each extra set of nipples when you clean the gun.

Gun hygeine, especially with the nipples is the name of the game. Once you get it right, you will have no doubt whether your gun will go off after you cap it:

For instance, I have a .36 navy with 5 cylinders loaded and capped in my drawer, with the hammer resting on the empty 6th, and there is no doubt in my mind at all that if I picked it up, it would fire all 5 cylinders without a misfire. Thats why its in my drawer instead of my supposedly more reliable .38. I am not concerned because I keep it CLEAN, and I know them caps are seated to blow their sparks inside the nipple and not outside.

That is good information. I just ran about 80 rounda through my Pietta Capt. Schaeffer .36 caliber using Remmy #10, CCI #11, and RWS 1075. The gun is set up with Slixshot nipples and Lee Gunfighter main spring.
I had much less trouble with the #10 more with the #11 and misery with the RWS 1075.
An occasional jam with #10, many with the #11, and jams and second strikes with the 1075.
Cleaning the nipple is a good idea and that is a slick method, thanks
It is not the gun it is the cap. Part of reinventing a 150+ year old wheel. .
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

 

[Bunk]

and by the way a #10 CCI is not the same as a Remington #10 . The CCI #10 is smaller and does not work on Slixshot nipples. The CCI #11 is close to the Remington #10. Close, but no cigar.
Some time ago I posted a table of cap dimensions. "Everything you ever wanted to know about caps" look back several months ago.
Bunk (AKA wb78963)

 

[Gsyme]

Useful info. I spent a fair amount of time trying to source No. 10s with no success. Must be a crowd of people getting into BP revolvers right now, or simply stocking up. The No. 11s didn't cause any jams during my short session but it was a short one.

 

[CyrusP]

I will add one thing to the above great info. Pipe cleaners are your friend. They punch through and swab. A pack from a hobby shop is a lifetime supply. Reaches in to tight spots. Keep a few in your kit if you ever forget your other tool.

 

[bore_butter]

i carry an oxy acetylene tip cleaner kit in my range box. it has enough reamers to fit any size nipple hole. got mine in 1965 but i see they still look like the one i have and cheap too.

 

[Bunk]

Yes Slixshot nipples are made to work with Remington# 10 caps. They work pretty well with CCI#11 caps.
My Pietta snubby .44 is on the bench to be shot as soon as the weather clears. It will be shot with both Remington #10 and CCI #11 caps. Please note Remington #10 and CCI# 10 are NOT the same. The CCI# 10 is smaller in diameter than the Remington #10. However the Remington #11 is the same diameter as the Remington #10 but has a shorter skirt.
Confused?
Welcome to the world of C&B firearms.
Good luck and hold center
Bunk
Thanks very much for the new replies to this old post, all. The cautions about the possibility of stuck ball when the gun goes pop, rather than boom, is well taken. I will be very careful about that in the future.

Since my original post I cleaned the gun again thoroughly and used a nipple pick to make absolutely sure I had cleaned the chambers and the tiny flash hole (if that is what it is called) well. The next outing I didn't have any misfires. It was a short session of only five shots, though, and I am still nervous that it will happen again.

I haven't been able to find any No. 10 caps in stock anywhere, so I ordered some slix shot nipples which reportedly work well with both No. 10 and No. 11. I haven't installed them yet. Maybe I'll wait to see if any of you experienced shooters have experiences with them.

I am less interested in perfect period authenticity in this revolver than in functionality. I am looking for the type of reliability as described by .36 Rooster. Thanks again, all.
- G
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