Remove Barrel Browning?

[RBrooks]

Does anyone out there know the best technique
for removing the browning from my new rifle?
I was instructed by someone to just scrub
long and hard with fine steel wool. My desire
is to get a more antique grey/pewter look

Any help
lead487

 

[jdkerstetter]

Naval jelly or rust remover from any hardware store and follow the directions. Be careful not to let them sell you a rust converter as that just turns rust black and acts as it's own primer to get metal ready for paint.

A wire wheel on a bench grinder is handy too. If you just try and scrub off a good heavy coat of browning you will end up with tired arms before you are done.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Browning is just rust. An electrolysis bath will do it very well. Easy to set up. Googling will bring up a ton of information.

 

[kaintuck]

Browning is just rust. An electrolysis bath will do it very well. Easy to set up. Googling will bring up a ton of information.

:thumbsup:

 

[Vaino]

Just took the browning off a bbl by draw filing...came off easy and finished w/a light rub w/ 220 grit paper. Rebrowned and came out perfect. A cold blue could be applied and rubbed back in lieu of a rebrown for a more antique look.....Fred

 

[Bill Hall]

If you're wanting an antiqued look, you might try the steel wool first. You can rub the finish off until you get the desired effect. Browning leaves a little texture in the metal, so rubbing it back may give what you're looking for, kind of a well worn old look. If you don't like it when you're done, you can still use the naval jelly, draw filing, or even sand it off and start over.

I've been experimenting with an antiquing process, where I rust the metal with one coat of browning, then rub it off with oiled steel wool. Gives the metal a slightly textured dull look.

Good luck. Bill

 

[54ball]

In case you do not know, draw filing is where you place the bbl in the vice, hold the file at a slight angle across the flat, push the file down the flat in even strokes and work one flat at a time. Be sure not to rock the file but keep it flat on the flat.
You can then finish with finer grits of sand paper wrapped around the file or a wooden block using the same method.
When its all said and done this may be the simplest, quickest method. No travel time, no shopping and no chemical clean up.
With that said, the Birchwood and Casey blue and rust remover worked well for me years ago.

 

[RBrooks]

That sounds more like what I want to do
Bill, and what type of oil do you use
with the steel wool?

Many thanks to all the other good comments
the other folks.

 

[Old Salt]

I messed up a nice browning job with vinegar one time. I might have read that it would be a good cleanser. Anyway I had to redo the browning. Give it a try and tell me what you get.

 

[Bill Hall]

Just 3-1 oil, or any light gun oil. You might start by using unoiled steel wool, to get the browning off faster, then oil up the steel wool for a more controlled, less aggressive removal. I'm also thinking start with 0 steel wool, then finish with 0000.

Like I said, I'm just experimenting with this technique. Haven't got it down to an art yet. Maybe you could lead the way for the rest of us. Let's see some pictures when you're done. Good luck. Bill

 

[FL-Flinter]

There are many ways to get a variety of gray/pewter look on Fe alloys and not all alloys will respond in like manner so it's prudent to understand that attachments like sights, breechplug, ect. may show obvious variations. Also, depending on the method, some gray finishes are very fragile in that even light handling will shine them up and some are prone to promoting rusting. I strongly suggest doing a lot of research before deciding on what type and method of finish you desire before doing anything to the gun.

As for removing the rust, an acid like hydrochloric will be the fastest and easiest but not suggested if you're not experienced in working with acids. Using any type of acid will also require complete and thorough neutralization paying particular attention to areas where acid can become trapped. Common retail products like Naval Jelly, Lime Away, ect. are typically acidic and need to be utilized in the same manner and with the same care as a straight acid.

If you're not sure, I'd suggest following the advice someone else gave to just rub-back the brown, if you don't like it, just degrease and let the brown come back.

 

[rickjf]

Spray on paint remover or lime-a-way, careful attention and warm soapy water to remove chemical. 0000 steel wool will help

 

[RBrooks]

Thanks, I'll let all know how it comes out
when finished