Remove barrel for cleaning?

[The Baron]

I've had my Caywood Type C for over a decade, and have never removed the stock to inspect/clean the underside of the barrel. Is this "necessary" and if so, how often? I've only used the gun for turkey hunting, the occasional range trip and carried a bit in the fall. I have hunted a couple days in the rain with it.

I know most will laugh at the simplicity of the job, but I'm very nervous about punching out pins for disassembly. With my ham-fisted luck, I won't be able to get it back together and will end up shipping a box of parts down south. :redface:

 

[jrmflintlock]

I had a Jaeger made by TVM that the Barrel had been glass bedded to the stock, so removal was impossible. As long as everything works I do not see a need. I clean and oil the guts of the lock EVERT TIME I shoot my flintlocks. I had a buddy whose lock blew off cause his FFFF prime was accumulating behind the lock. It was a poorley put together traditions kit gun.

Although its not really that hard to disassemble a longrifle or fowler. The key is to not force anything. if you have to force it its probably not supposed to go in that way.

Mr Caywood is a very nice gentleman and will return your call. Call him up and ask him what his thoughts are. He will probably tell you which side to push the pins from to as some do have a direction.

That's my two cents. take it for what it's worth.

Good Luck!

 

[hanshi]

I only remove the barrel for cleaning on hooked breech guns and NEVER remove pinned barrels for cleaning. I will pull the barrel on my pinned barrel guns every two or three years to check for rust - not really necessary since I don't hunt in the rain. Any new gun does get the barrel removed right away. I do this to check that the pin holes in the barrel lugs are open enough to allow stock swelling & shrinking. I also use that time to grease the barrel bottom and seal the barrel channel when necessary. Other than when work is needed, the barrel doesn't come off.

 

[Stumpkiller]

It's not necessary. Occasionally I drip some Sheath on a piece of card stock (like those stupid inserts in magazines) and run it along the seam between the barrel and stock. If it came up rusty I might consider pulling the barrel.

I pulled my Bess barrel one in 15 years and decided it wasn't necessary. Have never pulled the barrels on my flint rifle or flint fowler - and they are my primary hunting arms.

If I have been rained on I do the oil & card treatment when wiping and cleaning at the end of the day.

 

[Black Hand]

I filled the space between the barrel and stock with wax (soft beeswax toilet bowl gasket). Haven't pulled the barrel since...

 

[RonRC]

I read that it helps to put tape (masking tape?) over the pins on the side that they come out. That way, pieces of wood are less likely to splinter off. Is that a valid approach?
Ron

 

[Black Hand]

The tape catches any pieces that break away (so they can be glued back into place) but doesn't address the initial issue that the pins ends need to be rounded to avoid the damage.

The best approach is to gently tap the pin out and watch for anything happening. If you see something odd, stop trying to tap out the pin. Replacing those little pieces is an enormous pain that can/should be avoided.