Remove Lock for Cleaning?

[wildeagle]

I remove and clean the lock after every shooting session. I don't really worry about the machine screws wearing unduly, they are tough. The only downside is the chance of cross threading and stripping the threads. Every time they are removed increases the chance of this happening, but I'll take that chance and be careful to start the bolt or screw properly. Just my .02 cents :surrender:

 

[Birddog6]

Man I'm glad I'm not helping you change your oil! You know all those oil pan bolts, then all the crud scraping and then the gasket reseating! :rotf: :wink:

WHAT !! You mean you don't have to take the oil pan off to change the oil !! :cursing: :cursing:

 

[Coot]

Hi,is it recommended to remove your lock after every shooting session for cleaning?Mike

As you have discovered, there is more than one way to do things. Here's mine:

I remove my locks when cleaning the guns - a lock that fits properly snug against the barrel should not be getting much (if any) dirt on the inside from firing but will a) be easier to clean off of the gun, b) you will keep that much more water or solvent off of your stock, and most important, c) you can be certain that the workings of the lock are dry and oiled when you put it back.

Re wearing out the screw threads, I think that unlikely but it is very important to do three things: a) only use a screwdriver that has been ground to fit the screws on the lock in question (nothing says gun abuse like buggered screws except rust), b) remove the lock itself gently without twisting it in the mortice so as to not wallow the mortice larger, and c) do not over tighten the screws as this will damage the threads.

 

[billandbeaufort]

Anyway you choose to do it will work, some ways just work better than others.

You will notice in this photo that the worst corrosion is on the out side where it could be seen. Such as in the pan, in front of the pan near the frizzen and even the hammer! There is no telling what this firearm went through. If I was a hunter (I am not) and shot in wet conditions I would be much more inclined to remove the lock. As you can see even in this incidence the wood to lock plate interface caused a bit of a seal if not a perfect one. With the right lube it may have fared much better. Once we "get to know" our firearms we will know if we should remove the lock. Of course erring on the side of caution and removing it is better than allowing rust to happen. But since I know my piece will never see rain and is properly lubed, I will pull it once a year. If I ever see corrosion I will ammend thet schedule :grin: By the way, my period incorrect lock lube is Boshield invented by Boeing Aircraft!

 

[Swampman]

Simply spraying your lock down with Windex and scrubbing it under running hot water with a tooth brush is more than enough.

Let it dry, and spray it with WD-40. I've used this simple method for years with zero problems. Further disassembly on a regular basis may usually result in a ruined lock.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Mark: I hope you also add to your usual list of things to do with that lock the checking of all screws to make sure that none has worked loose.

I am not a fan of WD40 if the gun is not going to be shot within 30 days. The residue it leaves behind is quite " gummy" and can foul up the works. Gratefully, WD40 is also its own solvent, but you will need that Windex with Ammonia, and that toothbrush to remove any dried residue. A squirt of WD40 will soften it, and loosen it from most of the metal, but you still have to dig it out. I have an old toothbrush in my range box just for cleaning my gun locks, and my ex-wife was always wanting to throw " That old thing out!!" I finally used some soap and bleach on the toothbrush to remove some of the stains and clean it up a bit to make her happy.

Women. Can't Kill 'em; Can't live without 'em.

 

[Swampman]

I use the WD-40 to displace any water that might be left behind. Olive oil is usually applied after the WD-40 drys.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Further disassembly on a regular basis may usually result in a ruined lock.

would you be willing to expound on this statement.

 

[mckutzy]

i would have to agree that taking off the lock is a definate good idea.

this musket was able to be cleaned up and it functioned allright but i have seen worse because of not removing the lock

 

[roundball]

Further disassembly on a regular basis may usually result in a ruined lock.

would you be willing to expound on this statement.

Curious if you're struggling with the "may result in" part...or the "usually result in" part...or the "ruined lock" part.

I've dissassembled / cleaned / lubed Remington 1100 and 1187 actions and triggers groups untold hundreds and hundreds of times after every visit to the trap or skeet range over the past 30+ years...plus cap & flint lock assemblies about 50-75 times a year for the past 7-8 years. Clean them with hot soapy water then flush them all out with aerosol WD40, shake it off and let the excess drain on a rag while cleaning the barrel...never had a problem with any of that in all those guns over all those years.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I use the WD-40 to displace any water that might be left behind. Olive oil is usually applied after the WD-40 drys.

Mark: Any alcohol- isopropyl, rubbing, denatured-- Good God, Man, don't use drinking liquor! -- will evaporate the water from your lock as fast or faster than WD40. There are much better oils to use on screw threads and lock parts, IMHO, than WD40. Its okay, as long as you know its limitations. If other oils came in aeresol cans, like Rem Oil, we would have the best of oils, and a good way to get the oil into small places that are otherwise hard to reach. Starter Fluids, which come in spray cans, also, can be used to clean the crud out of tight places, too. Its mostly Ether, and it evaporates rather quickly, but it will dissolve and blow out any crud I have ever had to remove from a lock. Just keep it at arm's length. For that matter, keep the WD40 away from you mouth and nose, too.

 

[Swampman]

The cast metal springs used in all good reasonably priced flintlocks are very easy to break. The springs found in inexpensive flintlocks (Dixie, T/C, Lyman, Cabela's, CVA, etc.)are as brittle as glass. Compressing them in order to do unnecessary further disassembly, will sooner or later cause one to break.

Most of these inexpensive locks also have a lot of improperly hardened (gritty metal) parts/screws. They need to be treated carefully while working on them.

Everytime you remove and replace a screw you are causing wear. You will ruin your lock(and any gun)with excessive and unnecessatry cleaning.

Do what's needed, and let it go. Of course I'm not trying to be the resident authority. Dixie and Track sell replacement frizzen springs by the way.

I like WD-40.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Except for the frizzen spring, T/C, Lyman and Cabelas lock springs are all coils. But I don't believe anyone has suggested you totally disassemble the lock every time it is removed. Removing the lock every time it has been fired is a good idea. I really don't see how else one could properly clean the lock. Even if the fit is an air tight seal which keeps the interior spotless, you really can't clean the frizzen and pivot except by removing the lock and applying a wet toothbrush. Nor can you clean the interface where lock meets barrel except by removing the lock.
Ever wonder why the lock bolts have those big burly heads with wide slots? Certainly flat head screws countersunk into the sideplate would look better. But the makers used screws which can be removed and replaced with a hunting knife if you have nothing else at hand. :grin:

 

[Swampman]

Removing the lock is fine. Removing the frizzen of an inexpensive flintlock(for the average shooter)is risky at best. You'll break the frizzen spring sooner or later. I've seen a bunch of them broken. It's unnecessary.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Mark: You don't " Compress " the frizzen spring to remove it. You let the frizzen compress it, and then simply put a clamp on the spring to hold that position while the frizzen is opened, taking the pressure off the spring. Then its removed. I remove frizzen springs all the time to work on polishing the contact spot,( remove rust when someone hasn't kept it cleaned and oiled) and to remove the frizzen so that I can correct the shape of and polish the cam, or " heel" of the frizzen, which is what compressed the frizzen spring when the frizzen is closed. Once the corrective work is done, the lock and frizzen spring are cleaned, burrs removed if they are rubbing against the lock plate, then its oiled, and reassembled.

After that work is done, only regular maintenance and oiling is necessary. Done correctly, the springs don't break. Let some garage gorilla decided to compress that spring with pliers, and yeah, he's going to break springs.

 

[Bill Bryan]

I'd recommend that you look at how much residue is getting behind the lock into the "inards". If it's not a lot then removal every time may not be needed. My flintlocks all get a fare amount of resudue so I remove and clean at the range every time.

 

[bob4st]

...OK, having read all these differences of opinion, I think it's pretty simple... ya ready?... "...you say potato and I say pototo, he says tomato but I say tomoto.."
Bob :surrender:

 

[redwing]

All of the folks who remove their locks after each shoot live in wet humid areas, or seems so reading the forum.

If you live in a dry area and have a well fit rifle lock once a year is enough. Now many of the production guns and imports have poor fitting around the locks they need to be cleaned where ever you live.

This lock cleaning thing depends on where you live
and how good your arm is fit. I have seen many original arms with locks that worked after 150 years. I doubt very much that long hunters took the rifle apart every day and cleaned regardless of where they were. Military cleaning rules of the past often just mention clean the bore with water.
In the end its yours clean it all you want. :thumbsup:

 

[chuck-ia]

I take the lock off every time, and scrub with a tooth brush. I have a good fit against the barrel and get no fouling on the lock internals, I am more concerned about the fouling in the frizzen area, frizzen screw, spring, areas I can,t see. I do this if the gun is shot one time or 30 times, not a big deal. flinch

 

[Swampman]

"Military cleaning rules of the past often just mention clean the bore with water."

Tepid water does a fine job. It's really all you need.