Removing Birchwood Casey Plum Brown barrel finish

[DCAN]

Laurel Mountain Forge.

 

[Malamute]

I dont know if it matters with the browning solution, but Ive had cold blue solution be negatively affected when you get anything that touched the metal in contact with the remaining solution in the bottle. I now dump some in the cap, use q-tips or whatever to apply, toss each one as its used, avoid contacting the solution with a used q-tip or patch or whatever, and I toss whatever is left in the cap when done in case I inadvertently made contact. The remaining solution seems to stay good for extended periods.

Ive had poor results when the solution was contaminated, and heard its not good to let the solution come in contact with anything thats touched the work. I dont know positively if its true, but once I started being careful to keep the unused stuff away from the solution I was working with it doesnt seem to go bad or give flaky results any more.

 

[kelvinator]

I dont know if it matters with the browning solution, but Ive had cold blue solution be negatively affected when you get anything that touched the metal in contact with the remaining solution in the bottle. I now dump some in the cap, use q-tips or whatever to apply, toss each one as its used, avoid contacting the solution with a used q-tip or patch or whatever, and I toss whatever is left in the cap when done in case I inadvertently made contact. The remaining solution seems to stay good for extended periods.

Ive had poor results when the solution was contaminated, and heard its not good to let the solution come in contact with anything thats touched the work. I dont know positively if its true, but once I started being careful to keep the unused stuff away from the solution I was working with it doesnt seem to go bad or give flaky results any more.

Very interesting, never heard of it before but I can certainly understand it. If keeping the solution pure and un-contaminated makes a difference in the quality or outcome of the finish, it'd be nice if the manufacturer could mention that in the instructions on the bottle.

 

[Malamute]

Very interesting, never heard of it before but I can certainly understand it. If keeping the solution pure and un-contaminated makes a difference in the quality or outcome of the finish, it'd be nice if the manufacturer could mention that in the instructions on the bottle.

I dont recall where I heard it, it may have been from a different maker, or may have been some article or post online, but its been ages since I heard it. it seems to help some in any event.

Another thing that helps, and I think someone mentioned it, is getting the metal warm/hot to the touch before applying it. The browning perhaps more so, but it does help with cold blue also. I run it under as hot of tap water as it will get after de-greasing, then dry with fresh paper towel and apply solution, follow directions of maker otherwise as regards time, carding with steel wool and rinsing, whatever, repeat until desired finish is obtained.

 

[deerstalkert]

thanks for this thread. reminded me i need to order some more Laurel Mountain. its all i use and it turns out just fine every time. time being the operative word.
one thing i have found is tap water (chlorine) affects it. use distilled water for the rinse.

 

[Malamute]

thanks for this thread. reminded me i need to order some more Laurel Mountain. its all i use and it turns out just fine every time. time being the operative word.
one thing i have found is tap water (chlorine) affects it. use distilled water for the rinse.

Interesting, hadnt thought of that before. My place is on a well, no chlorine, no minerals other than small amounts of sodium, my water works fine with cold blue.