Removing nipples

[B P Arn]

^^^ ...or snap a nipple off and leave the theaded shank stuck in the cylinder. No Bueno.

 

[gvandersluis]

I spray the heck out of whatever revolver I've been shooting with a 1:10 Ballistol/water mix, guess that's my MM, lol. Then wrap it in a towel and let it soak for 20 minutes on the ride home. Then wipe it down, clean the barrel and chambers, nipples come out and soak in a little cup of MM. Once everything else is cleaned, dry and wipe the nipples with a towel, antiseize and back in they go. Then put the rest together, grease the arbor before the cylinder goes on, and so far life is good.

I've decided to only pull the whole gun apart about every 3 or so range trips, so far it's been too cold to be out there forever so I haven't really shot as much as I like.

I was thinking about a cheap ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, I have no issue cleaning by hand but I guess it's the "gizmo" factor, a new toy for the man cave, lol. Anybody use them for this and like them?

I bought my Hornady ultrasonic cleaner primarily to clean my Black powder cartridges 45-70 etc but it was a failure because the fouling turned the fluid black immediately and the cases were streaked with fouling when removed from the cleaner, so now I just clean them with detergent and hot water using a bottle brush on the inside then tumble them. I’m sure that expensive ultrasonic cleaner would do a good job on my cap and ball revolver parts but nothing bigger than a derringer would fit as a whole gun

 

[gvandersluis]

I guess I'm a bit paranoid due to previous experience, but I pull the nipples every time and clean with Ballistol and water, then a dab of antiseize when they go back in.

I just got back into the hobby, had a open top years ago. Came home from shooting, we had to take our son to the hospital so I layed the gun on my workbench figuring I'd get to it later that night. Well, one thing led to another, and I forgot the damn thing for over a week. Big lump of corrosion with a gun in it. I was so mad at myself I gave it to a friend who said he'd try and clean it, never asked for it back.

Heckuva learning experience, and now that I'm single again I can come home and concentrate on getting the guns cleaned and ready for the next time.

Golden Rule: NEVER ever leave any Black Powder gun ML or cartridge dirty later than sundown.

 

[TomV]

Golden Rule: NEVER ever leave any Black Powder gun ML or cartridge dirty later than sundown.

Exactly clean and preserved for next time

 

[Zonie]

This might have been mentioned before but since this is a "Removing Nipples" thread I'll mention something that might help some of you.

When the gun is a cap & ball revolver, some people have a hard time holding the cylinder while they try to remove the nipples.
I've heard of some of them actually clamping their cylinder in a vise to keep it from turning.

Clamping a revolver cylinder in a vise is probably the easiest way to ruin it. Not only can the outside get scratched up but because there isn't much metal between the outside and the chambers, it is very easy to crush the cylinder which makes the chambers out of round.

An easy way to keep the cylinder from turning is to find a wooden dowel that is about 3/ 8" in diameter or a good, straight stick of that size.
Put a piece of the dowel or stick into two of the chambers that are furthest apart. For a 6 shot cylinder, that would be in chamber 1 and 4.
Then, invert the cylinder so the dowels are pointed down and clamp them into the vise. This gives the dowels the least torque to overcome when you start turning the nipple wrench.
Work on the nipples that are directly over the vise jaws so the vise will be taking the pressure you are applying down on the nipple wrench. Once the nipples at chamber 1 and 4 are removed, just pull the cylinder up off of the dowels, rotate it and push it back down with the dowels now in chamber 2 and 5 or 3 and 6.

If the nipples are totally stuck and there is no way that they are going to come out, you may need to drill the nipple out. If the nipple uses a 6 mm or larger thread, a 3/16" drill bit will work.
That's because the nipples are hardened steel and the diameter of the cone is smaller than the drill bit. Being smaller, the cone won't guide the drill like you would like it to do.
Drilling the nipple from inside the chamber works fine for the Colt but because the Remington nipples are installed at an angle, that is difficult to do without ruining the cylinder.
If you are working on a Colt cylinder you can drill from the insde by using a "Left hand" drill bit. The left hand drill will be trying to loosen the nipple as it drills into it and often, after the drill gets a good bite on the steel, the nipple will screw out. If it doesn't unscrew, drill completely thru the nipple. The small amount of steel left in the threads can usually be picked out with a sharp awl or pick. If the nipple has a 1/4" thread, you can enlarge the hole by using a 13/64" drill. That should either unscrew what is left of the threads or reduce their size to something that can easily be removed with an awl.

 

[TrapperPete]

I always end up with anti seize all over whenever I use the stuff. It seems like it multiplies when it comes into contact with skin.

I know there is a brush in the can , the brush is for when your applying the anti seize to the inside of your aluminum rims and brake rotor contact. If your not doing this , and you live where salt is used on roads , you should , I used to have to beat the tires off peoples cars with an 8 pound sledge , talking swings at your tire to break it loose , we left 2 lug nuts on a few threads so it didn't come off and go flying across the shop.

tooth pick is more appropriate for the little threads

 

[TrapperPete]

the best way to never have a stuck nipple is to pull them and anti seize them from day one
applies for all the precaution guns rifle , pistol , shotgun , musket caps , and inline breech plugs

the other thing is you put it in till snug not tight , go in to tight , back off 1/4 then just till you are almost back to where you were at

same with not having ignition issues , start with proper cleaning before your first shot.

 

[.36Rooster]

I do remove them with every cleaning. It's just good gun care, regardless.

However, if I don't clean the EXTERNALS of my nipples every two cylinders or so, I will begin having misfires. I don't know why that's so, but it is.

From what I've seen internal-wise However, a nipple can take a ridiculous number of caps without ever clogging. Im not sure I've ever needed a nipple pick, and I honestly don't see the point to carry one, even though I still do.

However the external fouling on the nipple tube causes quite a bit of ignition problems. I do not know why. I think it's related to the caps not being able to get a consistent seal on a nipple once it's soiled with fouling.

 

[GREENSWLDE]

To save future siezing wrap the nipple thread with plumbers PTFE Tape.OLD DOG.

 

[FishDFly]

The best nipple wrench for removing nipples is the Tedd Cash nipple wrench, comes with sockets for rifles and revolvers.

For applying anit-seize, I use the tip of a pocket knife to get it off the brush and onto the nipple. Put the nipple into the wrench and apply the anti-seize so you do not get it on your fingers.

 

[Griz44Mag]

The best nipple wrench for removing nipples is the Tedd Cash nipple wrench, comes with sockets for rifles and revolvers.

For applying anit-seize, I use the tip of a pocket knife to get it off the brush and onto the nipple. Put the nipple into the wrench and apply the anti-seize so you do not get it on your fingers.

It won't hurt you.
I buy the small tubes at the auto supply - press a small dap on the nipple thread, wipe it around the threads with my pinkie. Wipe the pinky off on a shop rag. I use the same procedure with spark plugs, exhaust bolts, etc....... No big deal - unless you forget to use it.....

 

[FishDFly]

Know it won't hurt you, used it by the gallons when working in a chemical plant. Pocket knife makes it easy to get it into the threads.

 

[MrMackc]

I never remove the nipple from my .50 mountain rifle to clean unless the nipple is stopped up, which is hardly ever ,only after it has been fired a lot of times and then just to be sure the threads are okay. I don't remove the barrel every tine I clean either I fill a 5 gallon bucket about 3/4 full of HOT soapy (Dawn) and connect a small plastic tube to the nipple and stick the other end of the tubing in the bucket of hot water, then use my range ramrod with a wet patch to pump swab the nipple and barrel. after 8 or 10 pump swabs I dump the dirty water and pump swab with clean HOT water. then remove the tubing from the nipple and dry swab the bore and then swab with an oiled patch, then stand the rifle muzzle down overnight, the next day I run a lightly oiled or Hoppes #9. I have found over the years that Hoppes #9 is a great rust preventive on all of my guns, even better than a Silicon rag.

 

[Bugtrucker]

I see a lot of folks using Ballistol mixed with water for cleaning. I have used it straight for years on my convention firearms as cleaner, lubricant, & protectant. I am new to black powder and can it be used as such in black powder firearms?

 

[sportster73hp]

I have always used anti-seize that is in a chap stick tube. Think it’s from RMC. Easy to apply not messy at all. It might just be wax not really sure but have never had a problem with it.
I use an ultrasonic cleaner on gun parts. The lock, flint , and nipples. Straight warm water no soap. As for cartridges, when it turn black put fresh water in it and run again.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Yes, @Bugtrucker, you can use Ballistol in your muzzle loaders. I use it full strength as a wipe after I have cleaned with water and soap, dried the bore and used either rubbing alcohol or WD-40 to displace any water left in the bore. The Bllistol patch is used to verified the firearm is clean and then Barricade is used for storage.

 

[csaduck]

Birchwood Casey makes a nice tube of lube filled with "Never-seize" liquid paste under the use of shotgun screw in chock tube lube. I have been using this for years and years for all of my nipples and even screws. I don't remove the nipples in revolvers after every shoot, I usually strip them out and clean around December after a summer and fall of shooting. Never a problem of getting them to come out.

 

[Bugtrucker]

Yes, @Bugtrucker, you can use Ballistol in your muzzle loaders. I use it full strength as a wipe after I have cleaned with water and soap, dried the bore and used either rubbing alcohol or WD-40 to displace any water left in the bore. The Bllistol patch is used to verified the firearm is clean and then Barricade is used for storage.

Thanks

 

[Newtire]

Anti-seize...It's the tried & true method for lubing spark plug threads. If it holds up under the heat and continuous pounding it gets in an engine, it's got to be the best thing for nipple threads. And it is! Just a small dot with a q-tip and one turn later, all the threads are coated. If Davy Crockett could have got ahold of some, I'd bet he'd have used it.

 

[Newtire]

Zonie, do Colts use left hand threads on the nipples or are you trying to turn them so they go to the inside of the cylinder when they unscrew?