Removing nipples

[Zonie]

Zonie, do Colts use left hand threads on the nipples or are you trying to turn them so they go to the inside of the cylinder when they unscrew?

Nipple threads are right hand so turning a nipple clockwise tightens it. If you are using a normal drill bit to drill out a nipple, it too is turning counterclockwise so, if your drilling from the outside of the cylinder, the drill bit will be trying to tighten the nipple.

If you use the same right hand drill bit but you drill the nipple from the inside with the bit going thru the chamber it will try to turn the nipple in a counterclockwise (looking at the nipple from the outside at the rear of the cylinder), direction that will try to unscrew the nipple.

 

[SOLANCO]

When I was in the Infantry the cooks had the heaviest steel trash cans you can imagine. They also had gasoline powered immersion heaters that could clamp to the sides of those cans. Ordinarily used for cleaning and sterilizing mess kits in the field. Didn't take long for a trash can of water to come to a roiling boil.
We were likely the last troops to carry the M1. After firing we field stripped the rifle and hung all the parts on the operating rod. We took turns dipping them in the boiling water. They got so hot they dried instanter. Oil and reassemble.
All of which leads me to wonder about boiling water for cleaning a BP weapon?

 

[kh54]

When I was in the Infantry the cooks had the heaviest steel trash cans you can imagine. They also had gasoline powered immersion heaters that could clamp to the sides of those cans. Ordinarily used for cleaning and sterilizing mess kits in the field. Didn't take long for a trash can of water to come to a roiling boil.
We were likely the last troops to carry the M1. After firing we field stripped the rifle and hung all the parts on the operating rod. We took turns dipping them in the boiling water. They got so hot they dried instanter. Oil and reassemble.
All of which leads me to wonder about boiling water for cleaning a BP weapon?

A good friend of mine used to immerse the barrel assembly and cylinder of his second generation Colt 1851 Navy in a pot of boiling water just as you suggest. I never asked how he lubed it afterward but he never fully disassembled it or removed the nipples and never had trouble removing fouling or shooting.

 

[Bad Karma]

There are also hardened drill bits with a left hand twist. I use them for removing broken fasteners all the time.

 

[Snydly]

I always end up with anti seize all over whenever I use the stuff. It seems like it multiplies when it comes into contact with skin.

I squeeze just a dab on the end of a Q tip and apply.

 

[Newtire]

Nipple threads are right hand so turning a nipple clockwise tightens it. If you are using a normal drill bit to drill out a nipple, it too is turning counterclockwise so, if your drilling from the outside of the cylinder, the drill bit will be trying to tighten the nipple.

If you use the same right hand drill bit but you drill the nipple from the inside with the bit going thru the chamber it will try to turn the nipple in a counterclockwise (looking at the nipple from the outside at the rear of the cylinder), direction that will try to unscrew the nipple.

Yes, I understand that but it looks like you were saying to use a left handed drill bit from the inside, which we know would tighten it same as if you used a right handed bit on the outside. Misunderstood is all. Good, now I know that Colt didn’t pull some crazy thing like Jeep and Chrysler did with lug nuts on the passenger side being left hand thread so they would tend to tighten as the vehicle moved forward. Thanks, now I know.

 

[cvco]

I use Permatex-Loctite anti-seize. I have the can pictured here which I bought in 1968 and its only half-gone and still fresh. A little goes a long way. Its traveled with me around the world.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-80209-Silver-Grade-Anti-Seize/dp/B001HWA2SK?ref_=nav_signin&
Now....there is also Never-Seize and the site is worth checking out to decide which type of anti-seize might be best for nipples (and I will suppose breech plugs where applicable). I never knew there were seven different types of compound because I always used just one for everything. They have food-grade too which could come in handy for house plumbing which get get really tough, like faucets, etc.
https://neverseizeproducts.com/
As for plumbers tape, ive thought of that too and i'd think one wrap would work and if i believed i had a sealing/blowback problem. Would the heat have a bad effect on the nipple? Its worth a try!

Last thing, I can say I never had a seizing problem on any fitting regularly exercised. Some you cant, like brake fittings on a car, just saying in general. If BP nipples are removed and cleaned regularly, then good. I see the nipple seize problem all the time around the net including videos about drilling them out, etc. Dont let them get so bad!

 

[Bad Karma]

Yes, I understand that but it looks like you were saying to use a left handed drill bit from the inside, which we know would tighten it same as if you used a right handed bit on the outside. Misunderstood is all. Good, now I know that Colt didn’t pull some crazy thing like Jeep and Chrysler did with lug nuts on the passenger side being left hand thread so they would tend to tighten as the vehicle moved forward. Thanks, now I know.

Zonie says if you use the same right handed drill from the inside of the chambers you’ll be possibly loosening the nipple. That is how I read this...

 

[Newtire]

Zonie says if you use the same right handed drill from the inside of the chambers you’ll be possibly loosening the nipple. That is how I read this...

Just read it opposite and wanted to know in case I ever wanted to remove the nipples from a Colt I just got so I wouldn’t break anything turning it backwards. Got it now. Thanks!

 

[smoothshooter]

Does anyone not remove their nipples (for cap and ball revolvers) during cleaning? I remove the nipples maybe about after 5 or so shooting sessions. I have never had problems. Does anyone else not remove their nipples every time they clean?

I do about like you do.
I always use some sort of anti/seize as well.

 

[Newtire]

I don't on revolvers but on long guns= every time.

 

[Crow-Feather]

I am trying plumber's tape. I understand that the Teflon does a great job of protecting the threads and making for an easy extraction.

 

[smoothshooter]

I am trying plumber's tape. I understand that the Teflon does a great job of protecting the threads and making for an easy extraction.

Anti-seize is easier to use, and one fifth of a small tube will last longer than you will.
Too-frequent removal of nipples probably causes more wear and tear on the threads than any gas blow-by or fouling accumulation if the threads are coated with something.

 

[smoothshooter]

I don't on revolvers but on long guns= every time.

I almost always did it on long guns as well, but I have not had a percussion long gun for 40 years, so the issue has not come up.

I remove the nipples for cleaning each time although I accept this is not absolutely necessary. However, after cleaning, drying and reinstalling the nipples(some oil applied to the threads) I visually inspect there is nothing blocking each flash hole by holding the cylinder up to an overhead light. Using this method I have not found it necessary to "snap caps" prior to initial loading on the next shooting session.

Popping caps on revolver chambers are a waste of good caps ( especially nowadays ) as far as I’m concerned. Fired cap residue will often clog a previously unclogged flash channel.
If I think there may be oil or moisture deep in the chamber I give it a small squirt of 70% isopropyl alcohol, twist a dry cotton patch around in there a few times with the aid of a cleaning tip, and blow hard thru the nipple. Wait a half minute or so for any remaining alcohol to evaporate, and load up.