Removing Rust From OLD Gun

[Splais]

I got a really old gun thread in the percussion forum trying to help a neighbor identify a family heirloom. Anyway, it is really rusted bad.

Is there anything I can use to remove the rust that will not damage any hidden proof marks, etc.

thanks

 

[Old40Rod]

I would recommend against you doing anything to it before consulting with an antique firearms expert. Make sure you know what you have and its value before doing anything.

:wink:

 

[renovato]

Soaking the metal in a penetrating oil like Kroil won't hurt anything until you decide what to do. It'll prevent further rust and it'll get under the rust that's there now, making it easier to remove. I wouldn't suggest using any of the rust removers, as they can be corrosive to the metal. I've had really good luck removing rust using penetrating oil and rubbing gently with fine steel wool. Definately get it appraised before you do anything to it other than oiling the metal.

 

[Splais]

Value is not an issue on this rifle; most likely an 1809 prussian Potsdam converted to percussion. The gun is a wreck. Looks like something out of a shipwreck or been barried in the ground for years, pretty much junk, just a lot of family heirloom type interest.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Use a good penetrating oil- Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Breakfree, etc-- on the gun and parts. Then after letting them soak for a few days, use a coarse rag- burlap sack works well-- and dip it into the oil, frequently, and slowly burnish off the free rust. The rust is an oxide, and its actally harder than the surface of the parts on which you find it. Be very gentle in removing the flowers of rust( use a magnifying glass in good light, and you will actually see that the rust "flowers" like a rose with its petals opening), and flush the surface with new oil, and re-dip that rag, or use a new part of the rag to avoid scratching what existing finish may be under the rust with that oxide.

I have cleaned up several rifles and shotguns that were full of rust, of various vintages over the years for family and friends, and both the owners and I have been surprised at how much blue finish actually remains on some of these guns!

At some point, you gun became a " Barn gun", a gun that was left out in the barn for shooting fox, or coyote, or wild dogs and cats preying on the farm animals. It was used when hogs were slaughtered, as well as other game. It was not cleaned, oiled, or protected from rain and heat. Its been pretty well used up. I don't know from your pictures if any of that wood stock can be saved. It can be used as a pattern to make a new stock, however. It all depends on how much money you want to spend, and what you want to do with it. If its going on a wall, spend as little time and money as possible. In its present state, its probably not a safe shooter, anyway. However, it should be checked by a competent, BLACK POWDER gunsmith- not some guy who works on modern wonders.

 

[Splais]

It will never be shot. I have checked it for him to make sure it wasn't loaded. and yes, apparently his father found it in the attic of his fathers house. Says his dad used to play with it as a kid. I have tempted him with 'fixing' it enough to hang on the wall; but he doesn't even want to replace that broken piece of wood ramrod. The work removing the forstock was pretty high quality. Unfortunitly nobody knows when or why. I am trying to talk him into cleaning it up as is with the halfstock and just putting a new steel ramrod in it. Will look nice over the mantle and somethin he can give his kids.

 

[Zonie]

I would use one of the oils mentioned above to loosen the rust and then either use the burlap rag method or buy some #0000 steel wool to remove the loose rust.

The #0000 steel wool will not remove anything that is actually steel or iron but it will remove any loose rust.

I would use boiled Linseed oil on the wood.
Based on the photos, it will want to drink a lot of it and the oil will not damage it a bit.
The oil will darken the wood quite a bit which will even out its appearance with the small areas of the remaining finish.

I would not use a varnish or any of the modern One Coats or other things like that.

 

[44-henry]

I wouldn't recommend this to a gun with significant value; however, you might want to try electrolysis on this one. You probably have most of the things you need already to try this procedure and it does work very well. I have used this method to remove heavily encrusted tools and it will remove all the rust right down to the bare metal, but it doesn't do anything beyond that and won't eat the metal itself if handled correctly. You will still need to scrub the part periodically with an mild abrasive pad to loosen stubborn rust, but in 1-2 days you can pretty much remove all that's there.

 

[Mulebrain]

Electrolysis, will not harm any of the steel, and the bad stuff rubs right off! Heavily rusted parts take longer, but worth the wait!

This tecnique is used very often by museums.

Using abrasives, could damage vital information!

Here is myself in action on an old gun barrel piece

The rust/crud will literally rub off like mud/paste!

Before

After

 

[Erzulis boat]

Wow!

That is amazing- thanks for posting that process.
:thumbsup:

 

[Splais]

Could you please take the time to tell me MORE. the how too, and where to get the markings - or is there a kind of store that would do this electrolysis work. thanks so much, you're getting me exited! :grin:

PS: do you have to remove all the wood parts first.

PS#2: what are some suggestions for removing things like stuck lock screws, etc.

 

[Tinker2]

Splais

Electrolysis:

This is how I do it.
I remove rust out of old barrels [inside and outside], old parts and the like electrically. Only removes the rust.

You need a non conducting container large enough to submerge the part. My cleaning solution is, per 5 gallons water two table spoons of washing soda or if I can’t find that then baking soda.

A battery charger, a clean piece of steel rod.

Battery leads:
I put the positive lead to the rod and the negative to the part I want de-rusted. The rod mostly and the part completely submerged. if you want the bore de-rusted then you need a rod that will fit in the bore with some o-rings on it, can’t touch each other, rod and barrel, breach plug.

I see that Mule Brain uses a steel tank instead of a rod
The time it takes depends on how much rust, most of what I do takes two to four hours

Do it outside, the bubbles are hydrogen gas.
Do a test piece first.
It is a good idea to have a expert look at it first.
Make sure it is not loaded.

PS: do you have to remove all the wood parts first.

Yes no wood only steel.

PS#2: what are some suggestions for removing things like stuck lock screws, etc.

I use a good penatrating oil like Kroil or the like.

I am sure that someone on this forum would do it for you if you wanted. I would but I only do it outside and am up to my butt in snow.

If I didn’t make it clear, just ask.



William
Tinker2

 

[Splais]

That was a great help. After I get a chance to see if I can get it all apart I'll contact you again if I have any questions. thanks.