Repair advice?

[Artificer]

Brownells is where I bought heat paste 20 years ago when working on modern guns. I'm sure they still carry it.

This is probably what you are referring to:

BROWNELLS HEAT STOP™ HEAT CONTROL PASTE | Brownells

I used it in a modern 10 gage semi auto barrel that had a GIGANTIC size band to hold the magazine tube in place.

A SERIOUS WARNING about this stuff. It worked GREAT and allowed me to correct what the Factory blundered on. HOWEVER, you can not leave this in place long after you are done heating. CLEAN it off quickly when done soldering as it will begin to eat into the surface metal if left there too long.

Ask me how I know? Ask me how I learned to use a Flex Hone to polish the bore out when I was done? No, on second thought, don't......

I would try at least JB Weld to do this job or even better the Black Hysol Epoxy Patch kit 11C.

Loctite 1373435 - Hysol 11C Two Component Epoxy Adhesive, 4 oz (all-spec.com)

Gus

 

[BadDaditood]

I have a Wm Moore 10 ga sxs that had a loose top rib at the muzzle. I literally just finished soft soldering the whole rib back on. I’m going to proof it tomorrow, if you never hear from me again you’ll know I overtorched it!
After consulting YouTube and seeing the old Brit from Midway saying it’s so much work he subs it out I considered JBweld. But it’s only good to 500 degrees…. I think it might get hotter than that and then I’d have a huge embarrassing mess.
The trick is to tin both mating surfaces, but they need to be really clean for the solder to stick.
I almost gave up on it when I found this cool guy on YouTube… he demystifies stuff and he has a good sense of humor! After watching this vid I just did it myself.

 

[2 shots]

be safe use epoxy- it only a rod pipe.

 

[ppb]

If you suspend the barrels from a string will they ring if you strike them?
Remember 6 inches from your face.

Yes they do. It's a nice solid ring - like a tubular bell. Good tip.

 

[Mark26mod0]

the

Yes they do. It's a nice solid ring - like a tubular bell. Good tip.

then they are not full of rust.

 

[ppb]

Also, with a nice solid ring as that, is it reasonable to think the integrity of the original barrel set (solder joints, etc.,) is still in tact?

 

[Mark26mod0]

yes if it rings like a bell you should have sound solder joints with little corrosion .
if rusted badly or if they have been in a hot blue tank the barrels will make a clunking sound.

 

[ppb]

yes if it rings like a bell you should have sound solder joints with little corrosion .
if rusted badly or if they have been in a hot blue tank the barrels will make a clunking sound.

That's good to know.
Thanks for your input!

ppb

 

[FlinterNick]

I would think sliver soldering back on would be fine and wouldnt unseat the rib.

in a situation like this, I wouldn’t use a household propane torch like a turbo torch or bernzomatic. I’d use a an oxy/propane torch so you can work with a neutral flamepoint, that way you can control the heat more efficiently.

 

[ppb]

For those interested, here's the follow-up - i.e., what I chose to do for the r-rod pipe repair.

Before I forget, thanks to all of you that offered advice and suggestions about how to do this. I appreciate your input.

I went with the solder approach for the challenge and also that would have been more typical of a repair from that time period.

I did some research, talked to some pros and then jumped in... Here are some photos:

Both the pipe and barrel-set were tinned before the pipe was located and heat was applied. The result is a little rough - definitely not museum quality but the pipe is solidly attached. I'm not going to fret about the patina just now, that will come in time...
Thanks again for your interest.

ppb

 

[Phil Coffins]

Good work, now that wasn’t so hard once you thought it out.