Repair Question

[jlutz]

Hi All. I may have the opportunity to purchase a rifle, but it’s cracked as pictured. Just wondering how problematic it would be to repair. Where is it on a scale from good epoxy/clamp job to new stock? I’d just pass, but it’s a mule ear and I haven’t seen to many of those floating around so I’d still be interested if the price right and the repair job isn’t too out of control.

 

[tenngun]

I would pry it own a with a knife then let carpenters glue in to the crack. Then tape with masking tape over night. Next day drill several 1/16 hole and place downs glued in . Lightly sand stain and oil.
a wax over the wood will help keep it from comming loose when dampened. It won’t be invisible unless you refinish.

 

[deermanok]

Definitely looks fixable.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Hi All. I may have the opportunity to purchase a rifle, but it’s cracked as pictured. Just wondering how problematic it would be to repair. Where is it on a scale from good epoxy/clamp job to new stock? I’d just pass, but it’s a mule ear and I haven’t seen to many of those floating around so I’d still be interested if the price right and the repair job isn’t too out of control.

I can't tell from the photo, we really need to see behind the lock. What I would do it this: Remove the lock and see where the crack is inside. If the wood can be totally removed, meaning it is almost to that point anyway do it. If is just a crack and not almost ready to come of then you need to try and get glue into the crack. I like good old Elmer's wood or carpenter glue. There are two main items to do for a good repair. Fit, meaning it needs to fit back like it was originally. The second item is good old clamping. You might need to make a piece of wood shaped like the curve so the clamp will clamp the whole broken piece. Once you get that glued and clamped with a wood cushion that fits the stock it will be good as new. Do not skimp on clamping. I would also do it with the lock out so you can see what is going on when you clamp. If the glue is not squeezing out, then it is not good enough.
Good luck

 

[Artificer]

Hi All. I may have the opportunity to purchase a rifle, but it’s cracked as pictured. Just wondering how problematic it would be to repair. Where is it on a scale from good epoxy/clamp job to new stock? I’d just pass, but it’s a mule ear and I haven’t seen to many of those floating around so I’d still be interested if the price right and the repair job isn’t too out of control.

Hi J,

What I have not yet seen mentioned is what caused the original crack in the first place? If you don't fix that, then the stock will crack again.

I would look to see if the Tang Screw is slamming against inside of the stock and caused that crack in the first place. If you notice where the screw pressed hard on the rear portion of the wood around the screw hole, that is the plausible explanation. If it is, then a round file used to clear some space behind the tang screw should fix that problem.

Gus

 

[deermanok]

Heavy recoil?

 

[Artificer]

Hi J,

What I have not yet seen mentioned is what caused the original crack in the first place? If you don't fix that, then the stock will crack again.

I would look to see if the Tang Screw is slamming against inside of the stock and caused that crack in the first place. If you notice where the screw pressed hard on the rear portion of the wood around the screw hole, that is the plausible explanation. If it is, then a round file used to clear some space behind the tang screw should fix that problem.

Gus

Sorry, forgot to mention that when you do clear space in the wood behind the tang screw, make sure it is done all the way up and down the wood behind the Tang Screw. You don't need a lot of open space, just file off the impressed wood and that should do it.

Gus

 

[1950DAVE]

I'm with Artificer on this. Determine the cause before any gluing is attempted. Once glue is in the crack and dried you will have a really big problem should the crack not be completely closed or hardware problems caused it in the first place. If the flake is removable after all hardware and screws are out of the way. Make sure no stray wood splinters are awry causing gaps, and pad as suggested before clamping to prevent denting. I recommend Titrbond III wood glue.
Dave

 

[Artificer]

I'm with Artificer on this. Determine the cause before any gluing is attempted. Once glue is in the crack and dried you will have a really big problem should the crack not be completely closed or hardware problems caused it in the first place. If the flake is removable after all hardware and screws are out of the way. Make sure no stray wood splinters are awry causing gaps, and pad as suggested before clamping to prevent denting. I recommend Titrbond III wood glue.
Dave

Wrapping the stock with surgical tubing is an excellent way to get the clamping pressure without harming the stock and it doesn't stick to the glue. Brownell's has recommended this since the 1960's and I used it in the 1990's to repair a shattered wrist on a Brown Bess Carbine.

Gus

 

[jlutz]

Thank you all for the quick replies and helpful advice!!

Jake

 

[Oldbear63]

If you were to use old fashion hot furniture glue you would be using something completely historically correct, plus it is an excellent and strong glue and if you make a mistake it is reversible (something Elmers and carpenters glue isn't).

 

[user 34300]

Get it apart and see what you have. IF there is oil in the crack you have larger issues. Clean it with acetone if there is a hint of oil. Piece it back to together dry and work out a clamping scheme.

I would strongly recommend high quality slow set epoxy. IF the chunk is big enough add some brass all thread between the pieces. Use small machine screw shanks.

I would definitely not use hide glue. Once the joint fails you will have a serious problem. Historically correct or reversible is irrelevant on a modern gun such as this. Titebond is fine for carpentry, not so much this.

This is a high stress joint as witnessed by it breaking in the first place. It may have oil in the wood, the last thing you want is water based glue. You will want to glass bed it anyway. The fact that is broke in the first place indicated it was bedded poorly in the first place. The grain layout is not good either. You will need to work around that. The recoil surfaces need to be made right. Use epoxy and structural glass thickener. Throw some copier toner or walnut sawdust in the epoxy to make it black. Boat repair places and surf shops have good epoxy and glass powders, probably dyes too.

One guys opinion base on 40 years of experience. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Oldbear63]

I definitely cannot claim 40 years of experience working with firearms and bow to your knowledge.
But:
Hide glues have been used for wood for millennia. Back joints on old violins are still tight after 400 years. Every piece of furniture older than 100 years is held together with hide glue. The filigree/crackle finish on glass is made by texturing the glass and applying hide glue. When it dries it is strong enough to tear off the surface layer of glass in a fern-like pattern.
Its main problem is that it turns into Jello (literally) when wet.

 

[Archer 756]

Epoxy is not good must have a space for epoxy to work Hide glues will pernitrate wood grains, epoxy does not pernitrate grains, it must have a space or gap.

 

[rdane]

Gorilla glue. The original.

 

[Vaino]

The first thing is to remove the bbl and lock to ascertian the cause of the crack and once this is corrected, the repair starts. A soft pine wedge {if needed} is used to spread the crack open, both sides of the crack near the surface are stained and when dry, the runny super glue is injected. The wedge is removed and the area of the crack is quickly wrapped tightly w/ surgical tubing and the excess glue is wiped off. After 10 mins or so the tubing is removed and the repair is complete. Depending on the stain color match, the crack can be invisible.....Fred

 

[Art Caputo]

Hi J,

What I have not yet seen mentioned is what caused the original crack in the first place? If you don't fix that, then the stock will crack again.

I would look to see if the Tang Screw is slamming against inside of the stock and caused that crack in the first place. If you notice where the screw pressed hard on the rear portion of the wood around the screw hole, that is the plausible explanation. If it is, then a round file used to clear some space behind the tang screw should fix that problem.

Gus

Fully agree with this. Looking at geometry of the crack I’d also carefully check for an even surface(using carbon black or lipstick) where the rear(breach) of the barrel mates against the the stocks breach block, checking/relieving any pressure/direct force against the location of the repaired/glued crack.

 

[Rudall]

Hide glues have been used for wood for millennia. Back joints on old violins are still tight after 400 years. Every piece of furniture older than 100 years is held together with hide glue. The filigree/crackle finish on glass is made by texturing the glass and applying hide glue. When it dries it is strong enough to tear off the surface layer of glass in a fern-like pattern.
Its main problem is that it turns into Jello (literally) when wet.

Real hot hide glue is incredibly strong. Not the fake ready-made Titebond stuff. Violins hold together pretty well for hundreds of years with no problems and are under huge stresses.
A great advantage of hide glue is that there will be no visible glue line.
It can be made waterproof with the addition of formaldehyde. Search online.

 

[user 48679]

I only hope the seller will allow such deep examinations prior to purchase, thass all...…...

 

[ord sgt]

As an alternative to clamps and surgical tubing while gluing odd shaped wooden items, I have used a bicycle inner tube. One of the children's bicycles had a flat tire. After replacing the inner tube for the tire, I cut the old inner tube into strips. The rubber still has some stretch and will conform to odd shape quite easily, giving good clamping pressure where it is needed.