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Repair / Touch-up remedies ?

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roundball

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On the basis that anything is possible when considering a used Flintlock...and short of replacing an otherwsie good stock...what possible remedial actions could be taken to clean up / smooth the edges of the lock mortise in the photo...(and similar issues around the tang and buttplate)

041310LancasterLockMortise.jpg
 
I have made good use of a burnisher to gently push the wood around the lock back into the gap. Both without the lock in place and with it.
 
Honestly that is inletted better than many originals I have seen but if it really bothers you it can be hidden quite well.
I have bought numerous guns with poor inletting and I use Pro Bed 2000 which is a dark brown glass bedding, Glass bed the lock and buttplate and sand it all very smooth using up to 600 grit to finish it and then lightly airbrush either black dye or black paint outward from the inletted area,
Just blend it in and it will look like the dark wood near the rear of your lockplate.
Then I put a finish coat of Linseed or something over the whole rifle to blend it in further.
Yup it's fake but I have done it on several guns and no one has ever noticed that it was repaired.
 
If'n it were mine and if it had a minimum of carving or none at all, I'd remove the finish, repair the poor inletting w/ either a sliver of matching wood or use epoxy colored to match. The panel surrounding the lock has been rubbed w/ sandpaper or steel wool that has not been "hardbacked" and is rounded. From the looks of the lock inlet depth , hard backed sandpaper would make the panel flat. The panel above the lock is irregular and too wide and no doubt other areas need "fixin" as well. A good off season project that requires a minimum amount of filing. Judging from your other posts and the extensive research you've done on your new LR purchase, possibly you won't be satisfied w/ this LR as is?.....Fred
 
flehto said:
A good off season project that requires a minimum amount of filing. Judging from your other posts and the extensive research you've done on your new LR purchase, possibly you won't be satisfied w/ this LR as is?
Correct, I don't think I would be...as I mentioned there are similar issues around the tang and buttplate. Trying to explore and weigh how difficult it might be to tweak it up some as I hate the prospects of having to wait to have a rifle built just to play at the range and/or shoot a deer or something.

Yes, I like good looking firearms, but they're really just tools to me...don't have real deep historical interests or love affairs with them :grin:
 
If every thing is solid you might consider the old timers method of hiding mistakes. They often used beeswax the same as we now used the glass bedding. Beeswax will"scourch" and darken when over heated in a pan with out changing its properties. I often use it to fill minor gaps in inleting. Just heat the wax to melting temp and slowly increase the heat until you get the color you desire. Then use a small bristle brush to apply the wax. After the wax has cooled scrape off any excess with a piece of soft wood ( I use poplar) cut to a chisel style edge.
 
My personal guns are also considered "tools" but as I hunt, whether it be for deer, elk or squirrels, these "tools" of mine are looked upon from a few different viewpoints. First off, the hunter in me says that if they don't work properly they won't be owned by me, secondly, the builder in me demands that they look right and thirdly because as a builder and "fussy" guy there shouldn't be any glaring "boo boos". I hunt w/ both fancy and plain MLers and enjoy all of them w/o prejudice if they meet the above requirements. Once got a questionaire from Honda Car Co. and they wanted me to rate my Honda Accord....choices were from hating the car to various degrees of "loving" my Accord. How can one love an inanimate object" and that goes for guns also. Good luck on your quest....Fred
 
Nothing worse than sitting on a deer stand looking at a bunch of inletting gaps. :haha:
 
Capt. Jas. said:
Nothing worse than sitting on a deer stand looking at a bunch of inletting gaps. :haha:

You're 1000% correct !!
:hatsoff:

Particularly if its the 3rd - 4th trip out and you haven't seen a thing worth tagging...by the end of the hunt you can get to the point of thinking "why'd I buy this raggety old thing anyhow"
:grin:
 
Maybe you should sell it to someone who would like to fix it up. Or see if the guy you bought it from would take it back since its not up to snuff.
 
Sorry roundball,I thought you were talking about a rifle you bought.
 
Colleagues,

The Way to re-age a repaired old rifle is with Briwax Black
Patinating wax. It blackens everything. Then you polish
off everything that isn't in a crack or wood pore.
Patina is mostly oxidized hand oil (or "man fat") and fine dirt.
Melt some beeswax and add a few drops of olive green
oil paint and a drop of burnt umber and a drop of black.
It should be a translucent dark green color.
When it cools, but is still soft, force it into the cracks,
and crevices and apply on the places where hand contact
would deposit oil and dirt, and then not be wiped away
by use. Burnish the wax with a cloth.

When blending in a new wood patch, use a magnifying visor
or glass to inspect the grain at the edges of the patch.
Use the tip of an exacto knife to cut in the grain pores
ACROSS the patch/stock joint line.
This is especially important on open pore woods like walnut.
Blacken the new pores with Briwax and the joint will be
greatly diminished visually.

NO, I don't build fakes. I learned this from a friend who is
a furniture restorer. The techniques work.
One other thing.
If you have raised edges of a split in thin wood, you can
heat the wood with a hot air gun to soften it and press
the curled edges back down and clamp them until they
are cool. They will stay put. Then run in some glue and
reclamp.

Just some stuff I picked up along the way.

Reboundspring
 

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